Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys

just had a another question

with the stock ceramic turbos ive heard that its impossible to know when there gona blow up but it will happen

everyone sort of says its the heat that kills them

like if ya run a bar boost or new cams etc etc

i was thinking today that maybe its the oil lines clogging up over time and blocking

leaving no oil going to the turbs and then just burning away till a ceramic explosion

what do you guys think??

or am i just talking shit

g

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/122901-ceramic-stockies/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 64
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

if you could keep the exhaust wheel and shaftat an even say 25oC, the wheel would not explode.

if its pumping 15psi @150,000rpm for 30 seconds @ 1200oC it will die fast due to expansion

if its pumping 15psi @150,000rpm for 10min @ 10oC it will stay together as long as the temps are even, and consistent

A ceramic wheel or shaft should be more heat tolerant than a steel one. Cermic pieces are fired at over 1000*C, steel won't take that. I would think that it would be the pressure of the forces pushing a ceramic shaft at very high rpm that would cause ceramic to crack, where as a steel blade will be much more tolerant than these forces.

Just my 2c.

In short,

Aim to keep those EGT's down.

What raises EGT's one engineer may ask another?

Reduced Timing

Detonation

Lean mixtures

:D

this is true, but unfortantly as you will know, the turbo relys on hot expanding gasses to operate efficiently not just gas velocity, so its a bad circle of ceramic death..lol

A ceramic wheel or shaft should be more heat tolerant than a steel one. Cermic pieces are fired at over 1000*C, steel won't take that. I would think that it would be the pressure of the forces pushing a ceramic shaft at very high rpm that would cause ceramic to crack, where as a steel blade will be much more tolerant than these forces.

Just my 2c.

And how does one bond the ceramic to the shaft.. This is where the problem lies, its not a ceramic shaft.

I was under the impression that the wheel departed the shaft because of excessive heat, which causes the material that joints the ceramic wheel to the shaft to fail.

Not suggesting that I am right, but just what I have been told.

Beat me to it. Had to have a piss while typing my post.

Edited by 09ONE_32
I was under the impression that the wheel departed the shaft because of excessive heat, which causes the material that joints the ceramic wheel to the shaft to fail.

Not suggesting that I am right, but just what I have been told.

this is half correct.

the reason is the wheel is pressed from the inside out by the shaft, and the material that bonds the wheel to the shaft weakens.

next time you flog the turbo, the wheel expands BEFORE the heat can transfer to the shaft and evenly heat the unit, causing the wheel to "fall off"

Are heat and rotating speed not related to each other?

no they aren't. boost pressure and heat are related. the higher the pressure, the higher the temp. you can increase airflow and have the same pressure and it won't raise the temp.

also having a restricting exhaust holds in the heat more. a more restricting exhaust has a higher pressure in it, which creates more heat.

At least you'll never have that problem with N1's!!

Interesting that nissan also had nylon compressor wheel and ceramic turbine wheel on the r34 GT-T.

nylon comp wheel was also for quicker spool but the main reason was for the bearings. a lighter rotating mass lightens the load on bearings, which stretched the service life!!!

:D

it was probably cheaper and lighter in wieght, which means faster response.

its like oem would be worried about how it went at 12psi for extended periods of time as this was beyond the factory scope/specs. sure they would have tried it for a few laughs, but its well within acceptable for factory configuration

One of the HPI dvds had their R34 GT-T project car blow one up on a track day but they were sort of expecting it to after all the mods they did. Was funny though.

On guy who lives near me has a NOS system on his GT-T and the stock turbo is still hanging in there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The cam I am actually putting in (a few posts up) is actually smaller than my current one. At least duration/overlap wise. All the chop stuff I hear just sounds like an engine running badly, because it is. I then envision driving it around in 1st gear and being massively sad about it bucking to the beat of said chop. There is an idle video of someone with a similar cam floating around the internet, but mine is a custom cam (so is his) so it'll never be the same, plus the fact exhausts are entirely different. What I want to do is put some bullet mufflers/race mufflers in to replace a couple sections straight pipes that currently replace the two extra cats that I don't need. But this is even further down the line!
    • I can tell you now, when the bracket that the little hydraulic ram attaches to snaps, with a subframe, and V8 from an AMG C63 on it, it sounds like someone letting shotgun off right beside you. It leaves your ears ringing, and a huge thankfulness that you never ever put a body part under something heavy that's only supported by a hydraulic lift...
    • Still not a guarantee fix. I used a high quality butyl-mastiq (the black goo that's not really silicone nor polyurethane, same stuff they use from the factory that just spreads out like melty cheese), and I still get lots of water on both sides of the trunk when raining or washing the car. I also suspect the factory spoiler rubber gasket might not be sealing well, so I'm thinking of adding a thin layer of grey silicone around the bolt holes on both sides and see if that's where it also leaks from. The biggest issue is that these cars don't come with a drain hole on each side like other coupes and hatchbacks.
×
×
  • Create New...