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Rb25det Stuttering/hesitating Problem

Premo23

By Premo23,
in General Maintenance

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Premo23 Apprentice

Premo23

Posted
Posted

Hey their,

I have an R33 GTS-T which recently has started to have a Stuttering/Hesitation Problem at about 5 to 5.5 thousand revs when you boot the thing. I can drive it normally and slowly increase the revs to the red line and the car doesn't hesitate at all but when you boot the thing it gets to about 5000rpm and the problem starts. I am thinking that it may have a Blocked Injector or something. The problem occured after i got a load of fuel. Have had about 3 to 4 tanks since then but still the same problem.

Any Ideas?

Thx James

MsG_ChRiS Community Regular

MsG_ChRiS

Posted
Posted

Just One Premo23...

Ask your local mech. to take it for a drive =)

Its prob your coil packs they do that sometimes ... or it could be a faulty plug ... who knows it could be any sort of problem

my advice take it to your mech...

cowie165 Veteran

cowie165

Posted
Posted

Hi James.

You may be on the right track when you mention fuel. The hardest the fuel pump will ever work is when the throttle is wide open and the motor is a high RPM. If it is hesitating when you're asking it for max effort but it is going ok when you just crawl up to high RPM, it could well be the bad batch of fuel has clogged your fuel pump or filter.

Have you tried changing the fuel filter? Are you able to have the pump flow tested? If they are a boot install in the R33 it may be worth your while to remove it and have it checked. As you mentioned, it could also be a clogged injector, but you wouldn't expect such a pronounced effect if only one was clogged.

If you DIY as much as possible, you'll save lots of money. Last weekend the radiator in my 626 daily driver busted itself (top tank cracked). I took it out myself, had a workshop repair/clean, the self-install and saved around $300 in labour.

As Chris mentioned above, it could be a coil pack. Do you know how to test your coils?

It's down to process of elimination dude :D That said, I had the same symptoms in my 180SX years ago and it was a cactus fuel pump.

Cheers

Mark

MsG_ChRiS Community Regular

MsG_ChRiS

Posted
Posted

Yeah i like doing DIY stuff to save money ... but more so when im installing say a FMIC or boost controller ...

If i had prob like that i would consult a professional ... it could save you $300 bucks to DIY or it could cost you several thousand if its serious ...

If you can find the prob, fix it ...

Or at least take it to get a diagnostic check @ Nissan or something then when you know the prob fix it =)

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

Most common problem for RB25det EVA!!!

A quick search would have no doubt found the cause/causes for this on your car quite easily.

Misfire under boost thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showtopic=1456

Anyway, I’ll post here so that it’s in one thread

Most common cause for the RB25det misfire/stutter/what ever you want to call it, at the 5000 – 5500rpm range is that it is at it’s maximum load.

This causes any small problems in the electrical system to show it’s head.

Things you can do on the cheap or even free are as follows:

1.) take out your coil packs and tape them up with electrical tape. Use quality tape, not the 6 for $2 type.

I did 3 tight layers.

When you take them out, you will see that from the actual COIL down towards the spark plug is a rubber boot.

I started at the base of the rubber boot (spark plug end) and wrapped the tape tightly all the way up to the coil and back down and back up. Each rotation goes HALF over the last one.

So 3 layers.. up, down, back up.

This prevents any hair line cracks that may be there from ARCING out any of the spark.

2.) spark plugs. If they are old, replace them with NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them)

Make sure they are gapped down to 0.8mm (you will need a feeler tool if you don’t already have one – they cost about $30 from what I can remember)

If your plugs are new or newish (I’d say spark plugs are only good for about 20,000kms) make sure they are gapped to 0.8mm.

Put the spark plugs in and tighten properly, put the newly taped coil packs back in.

3.) Take off your AFM (Air flow meter – it is bolted to your air filter box or pod filter if you have one of those)

Get a can of degreaser. Spray the INSIDE of the unit.. you will see a little knob in there with wires… make sure you spray them good.

Now rinse out under the tap (not too high pressure).

Repeat the above degreaser and wash step if not totally clean.

Once you rinse it, you will need to dry it.

I used a hair dryer on it till it was completely dry.

Put it back on your car and plug it all in.

Good to go.

Basically you’ve done a simple service which may fix your problem, and it has cost you nothing if you have all the tools or a few bucks if you needed to get parts.

  • 3 years later...
FalahR33 Community Regular

FalahR33

Posted
Posted

hey guys i hope u are reading my post coz beleive its an old post. I have some pulsing at the beginnig revs. the engine gose purrrrring again and again and while its doing that if u leave the gas u can hear the intake air leaking before it enters either the turbo or the intake manifold. some say the trubo isnt functioning properly, however the engine manual says if the turbo blade spins with just a slight push with a finger its all right. then is my bov gone wrong? coz there is no leak at intake joints as i checked before. is my coilover f**ked up or maybe my sensors. also in summers the engine heats up to the max. but mechs claim the engine is allright. then what?

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