Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey their,

I have an R33 GTS-T which recently has started to have a Stuttering/Hesitation Problem at about 5 to 5.5 thousand revs when you boot the thing. I can drive it normally and slowly increase the revs to the red line and the car doesn't hesitate at all but when you boot the thing it gets to about 5000rpm and the problem starts. I am thinking that it may have a Blocked Injector or something. The problem occured after i got a load of fuel. Have had about 3 to 4 tanks since then but still the same problem.

Any Ideas?

Thx James

Just One Premo23...

Ask your local mech. to take it for a drive =)

Its prob your coil packs they do that sometimes ... or it could be a faulty plug ... who knows it could be any sort of problem

my advice take it to your mech...

Hi James.

You may be on the right track when you mention fuel. The hardest the fuel pump will ever work is when the throttle is wide open and the motor is a high RPM. If it is hesitating when you're asking it for max effort but it is going ok when you just crawl up to high RPM, it could well be the bad batch of fuel has clogged your fuel pump or filter.

Have you tried changing the fuel filter? Are you able to have the pump flow tested? If they are a boot install in the R33 it may be worth your while to remove it and have it checked. As you mentioned, it could also be a clogged injector, but you wouldn't expect such a pronounced effect if only one was clogged.

If you DIY as much as possible, you'll save lots of money. Last weekend the radiator in my 626 daily driver busted itself (top tank cracked). I took it out myself, had a workshop repair/clean, the self-install and saved around $300 in labour.

As Chris mentioned above, it could be a coil pack. Do you know how to test your coils?

It's down to process of elimination dude :D That said, I had the same symptoms in my 180SX years ago and it was a cactus fuel pump.

Cheers

Mark

Yeah i like doing DIY stuff to save money ... but more so when im installing say a FMIC or boost controller ...

If i had prob like that i would consult a professional ... it could save you $300 bucks to DIY or it could cost you several thousand if its serious ...

If you can find the prob, fix it ...

Or at least take it to get a diagnostic check @ Nissan or something then when you know the prob fix it =)

Most common problem for RB25det EVA!!!

A quick search would have no doubt found the cause/causes for this on your car quite easily.

Misfire under boost thread

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showtopic=1456

Anyway, I’ll post here so that it’s in one thread

Most common cause for the RB25det misfire/stutter/what ever you want to call it, at the 5000 – 5500rpm range is that it is at it’s maximum load.

This causes any small problems in the electrical system to show it’s head.

Things you can do on the cheap or even free are as follows:

1.) take out your coil packs and tape them up with electrical tape. Use quality tape, not the 6 for $2 type.

I did 3 tight layers.

When you take them out, you will see that from the actual COIL down towards the spark plug is a rubber boot.

I started at the base of the rubber boot (spark plug end) and wrapped the tape tightly all the way up to the coil and back down and back up. Each rotation goes HALF over the last one.

So 3 layers.. up, down, back up.

This prevents any hair line cracks that may be there from ARCING out any of the spark.

2.) spark plugs. If they are old, replace them with NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them)

Make sure they are gapped down to 0.8mm (you will need a feeler tool if you don’t already have one – they cost about $30 from what I can remember)

If your plugs are new or newish (I’d say spark plugs are only good for about 20,000kms) make sure they are gapped to 0.8mm.

Put the spark plugs in and tighten properly, put the newly taped coil packs back in.

3.) Take off your AFM (Air flow meter – it is bolted to your air filter box or pod filter if you have one of those)

Get a can of degreaser. Spray the INSIDE of the unit.. you will see a little knob in there with wires… make sure you spray them good.

Now rinse out under the tap (not too high pressure).

Repeat the above degreaser and wash step if not totally clean.

Once you rinse it, you will need to dry it.

I used a hair dryer on it till it was completely dry.

Put it back on your car and plug it all in.

Good to go.

Basically you’ve done a simple service which may fix your problem, and it has cost you nothing if you have all the tools or a few bucks if you needed to get parts.

  • 3 years later...

hey guys i hope u are reading my post coz beleive its an old post. I have some pulsing at the beginnig revs. the engine gose purrrrring again and again and while its doing that if u leave the gas u can hear the intake air leaking before it enters either the turbo or the intake manifold. some say the trubo isnt functioning properly, however the engine manual says if the turbo blade spins with just a slight push with a finger its all right. then is my bov gone wrong? coz there is no leak at intake joints as i checked before. is my coilover f**ked up or maybe my sensors. also in summers the engine heats up to the max. but mechs claim the engine is allright. then what?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...