Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

After reading most of your nice advices about the 4wd check light problems in the gtr32s to help to solve mine (gtr34 v-spec), unlucky nothing seems nere. Here is the problem that I've been noticing:

Usuallly, when it's cool (ambient temperature/left overnight), it ocurred less often. Sometimes, just started the engine for awhile, the 4WD and A-LSD check light came on at the same time either on stationay (while idling) or rolling on a constant speed. Tried to turn the engine off/on, the check lights went off and came back on after awhile. How come, these two check lights came on together??

I've checked the fuses in the egine bay + driver's kick panel, fluid level, the relay to the fluid pump motor. They are all fine. One thing I haven't checked is the pump motor cause I wasn't sure how to.

I had an advice that, have a ATTESA computer diagnostic test, but I'd love to sort the problem out with your advices if it's possible before bring the car to a mechanic.

So please advice me how to solve this problem, THANKS GUYS !!!

well I've not had a look at the 34 computer, have a look at it (in the boot under the parcel shelf). when the 4wd light is on there will be an LED flashign a code number. Check the code number to the list of error messages in the 32 GTR workshop manual.

All on the assumption it works the same as a 32, my guess is the computer will still show error codes to help with problems like this.

All the other solutions like fluid, bleeding etc won't really help if the 4wd light is on. Most likely cause is a poor earth / bad voltage somewhere for intermittent problems like this.

Thanks Duncan,

I think you're right about the wirings. Yesterday, when it was in good condition, I tried to shake the wire loom near the pump => the check light poped up => turn off the engine => shake again => turn on => check light was gone. So, very high chance it's somewhere there. I'll strip it down on the weekend and I'll update to you later.

Cheers!!!

Hey guys !!

I've found where the intermittant bastard is !!! The water and corrosion contaminated on the connector of the fluid pump side. The voltage got leaked and shorted intermittantly caused the 4wd and

a-lsd check light came up. Just disassemble the connectors to clean the corrosion => DONE => THE GOZILLA IS HEALTHY AGAIN !!!

CHEERS!!!

  • 3 years later...
Hey guys !!

I've found where the intermittant bastard is !!! The water and corrosion contaminated on the connector of the fluid pump side. The voltage got leaked and shorted intermittantly caused the 4wd and

a-lsd check light came up. Just disassemble the connectors to clean the corrosion => DONE => THE GOZILLA IS HEALTHY AGAIN !!!

CHEERS!!!

Hi mate I got a same problem as you. can you point out where is the connector??? front?? in the boot??

you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

thanks mate, so how long it will take if let workshop do it?

you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

I found the pump is just under the right rear of the car i clean and replug it. the light not come up for 15kms so far. so maybe fixed.

sorry not sure how long it would take a workshop with a hoist.....would take me an hour to drop the subframe and 1/2 to raise it again but that has been on and off a few times.

definately a job to get someone else to do :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Turbo gods, some assistance and recommendations please I'm looking into a turbo kit for my 2.5 from MX5 Mania >>>>> https://mx5mania.com.au/products/copy-of-mx-5-nc-2-5-litre-engine-conversion-turbo-2005-2013 Power wise I would like about 200kw atw, and of course dose noises, apparently if you keep a stock 2.5 under around 200kwatw the engine and drivetrain will not hate life even when ragging on it a bit Max RPM on the 2.5 is around 6500rpm The turbo MX5 use is something around the disco potato size as  packaging room for the turbo is pretty limited, which will, I believe, give me my power goals I want and not have the turbo either under, or oversized, but the rear housing bit is confusing  It comes with either a 0.64 or 0.86 From my understanding, which so far is based off googling, so make of that what you will 0.64: spools faster = good Makes more EGT heat on boost = bad Less topend power than 0.86 = I'm only looking for 200 atw so that point may be mute????, I don't know, hence my questions  0.86: Spools a "little" slower = how much slower??? remembering 6500 is my max rpm Makes less EGT heat = good Makes a little more power up top = again, power goals is only around 200 Also, this is a street car, so there will not really be any long track sessions, in saying this I would want it so it was happy with at least 3 hot laps at Wakefield Park if the need arises  I already have a fancy pants triple pass radiator, and a oil cooler with thermostat will be getting installed as well Thanks for any information or recommendations you have 👍, and of course, the comments about me wasting money on drive in drive out modifications, or any other snide remarks about my manhood for owning a MX5 🤣    
    • Tape some wool onto the vent then take it for a drive I did this to my reverse cowl and was instantly unhappy, as anything over about 60kph would have the wool enter the engine bay, thus just adding underbonnet pressure and stooging my coolant stack, it did let alot of heat out when stationary though, which really didn't help once the car was moving, with the reverse cowl you could watch the coolant temps cheap up the faster you went on the hwy, I assume it would be alot worse doing track day speed With the vented bonnet (just after the radiator and about 1/3 up the bonnet) on my old R33 the wool on the leading edge sat at about a 45° angle as air poured out of it From looking where your vents are, and their size, I believe you should be fine at speed and air should be evacuated from the engine bay, I think it will be a night and day difference when stuck in traffic though for removing the trapped heat, and not sitting there cooking when parked up after driving around... #convection  Post wool tuft pics and data for science  This beastie is one nice and unique rig, enjoy
    • It is possible to do this stuff for "cheap". But you need to be able to get deals on all the bigger items, and it really helps if you're fully capable of doing your own work. As soon as you're paying retail for new parts, or buying "kits" because you can't fabricate necessary bits and pieces, and if you really need someone else to take the reins of doing the work because you don't have the space/time/skills/confidence to  rip deep into the car and put it back together in a working fashions.....then you pay. And these days, pay means a lot of money. You'd think things would get cheaper, but they don't. They just seem to keep getting more and more expensive.
    • It’s almost the price of an engine build, you won’t have anything to bolt onto it though 
    • Hopefully it's enough to help with the temps! I was also only shit stirring, regarding Murphy's Law basically. I've found, what ever spare parts I have, are the parts I don't break. Ever. Also have never had issues with oil/spinning bearings until I put oil pressure gauges on the car. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...