Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

After reading most of your nice advices about the 4wd check light problems in the gtr32s to help to solve mine (gtr34 v-spec), unlucky nothing seems nere. Here is the problem that I've been noticing:

Usuallly, when it's cool (ambient temperature/left overnight), it ocurred less often. Sometimes, just started the engine for awhile, the 4WD and A-LSD check light came on at the same time either on stationay (while idling) or rolling on a constant speed. Tried to turn the engine off/on, the check lights went off and came back on after awhile. How come, these two check lights came on together??

I've checked the fuses in the egine bay + driver's kick panel, fluid level, the relay to the fluid pump motor. They are all fine. One thing I haven't checked is the pump motor cause I wasn't sure how to.

I had an advice that, have a ATTESA computer diagnostic test, but I'd love to sort the problem out with your advices if it's possible before bring the car to a mechanic.

So please advice me how to solve this problem, THANKS GUYS !!!

well I've not had a look at the 34 computer, have a look at it (in the boot under the parcel shelf). when the 4wd light is on there will be an LED flashign a code number. Check the code number to the list of error messages in the 32 GTR workshop manual.

All on the assumption it works the same as a 32, my guess is the computer will still show error codes to help with problems like this.

All the other solutions like fluid, bleeding etc won't really help if the 4wd light is on. Most likely cause is a poor earth / bad voltage somewhere for intermittent problems like this.

Thanks Duncan,

I think you're right about the wirings. Yesterday, when it was in good condition, I tried to shake the wire loom near the pump => the check light poped up => turn off the engine => shake again => turn on => check light was gone. So, very high chance it's somewhere there. I'll strip it down on the weekend and I'll update to you later.

Cheers!!!

Hey guys !!

I've found where the intermittant bastard is !!! The water and corrosion contaminated on the connector of the fluid pump side. The voltage got leaked and shorted intermittantly caused the 4wd and

a-lsd check light came up. Just disassemble the connectors to clean the corrosion => DONE => THE GOZILLA IS HEALTHY AGAIN !!!

CHEERS!!!

  • 3 years later...
Hey guys !!

I've found where the intermittant bastard is !!! The water and corrosion contaminated on the connector of the fluid pump side. The voltage got leaked and shorted intermittantly caused the 4wd and

a-lsd check light came up. Just disassemble the connectors to clean the corrosion => DONE => THE GOZILLA IS HEALTHY AGAIN !!!

CHEERS!!!

Hi mate I got a same problem as you. can you point out where is the connector??? front?? in the boot??

you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

thanks mate, so how long it will take if let workshop do it?

you don't really want to know....there are orange and grey connectors on top of the attessa pump. which is on top of the diff. don't think you will have much luck getting to it without dropping the subframe.

I found the pump is just under the right rear of the car i clean and replug it. the light not come up for 15kms so far. so maybe fixed.

sorry not sure how long it would take a workshop with a hoist.....would take me an hour to drop the subframe and 1/2 to raise it again but that has been on and off a few times.

definately a job to get someone else to do :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope your all having a mean Xmas! If anyone happens to know any trick to using the insanely complex climate control system, I cannot get it to not be on dual zone no matter how many times I deselect it (will say it's not but both vents blow different temps). Also one side is always hot, one always cold 🤷
    • I'd be looking at the mentioned EFR kit, room to turn it up if decide on e85 (which we know you will) and be super responsive and fun on the street. OR https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nc/?srsltid=AfmBOorrJa2S76JR5ekXprxBOtU44a1UProbe64YaiVi9zTVp1Lj814w And add whooshy noise for extra fun C5 corvette prices are coming down locally here and a mate has a manual one and is a heap of fun on the street and track.
    • I have an Elite 2500, honestly most of this has been a lot of smaller tasks chasing little details and a whole lot of life getting in the way of bigger projects. I don't mind too much looking at a spectrograph vs having audio knock ears. 
    • Nah nah nah nah. Don't do it. It's not all about the full throttle power delivery. The main "street fun" and drivability gains from smaller rear (in this case) is how you will have boost available from a low rpm when yo just roll onto the throttle. Think jinking in and out of traffic, coming out of roundabouts, etc etc, where you just want to roll onto the throttle a little and have the spooly noise from ~2000rpm and a swell of torque. More of what you've already achieved by going to 2.5. And then, towards the tail end of 2025 you can pull the turbo 4 out and put in a V8 like we originally suggested. :P
×
×
  • Create New...