Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Just a question for anyone with an R33 GTR. Where did you guys get your Oxygen sensors from if you have replaced them, and how much did you pay for them??

I cant see the value in buying them from nissan for a total of $450. I just want some universal ones that i will adapt my old plugs to, but havent had any luck finding some over the last 2 weeks!

The specs are: 18mm thread, Titania Sensor, Three Wire, voltage range of 0 to 1 volts.

As you can see from the pic, my car is a 32 GTR, but i am running 33 dumps, which have the larger thread. So alternatively, if anyone knows where to get the bungs from to run the smaller 12mm thread 02 sensors from that would be great. (or even if you know of where to get them fabricated in Brisbane).

Thanks Guys, im beginning to get desperate!! :D

SLVR32GTR

Edited by SLVR32GTR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123107-gtr-02-sensor-cheap-alternative/
Share on other sites

hey man, im in the same boat.

i asked this question a little while ago, but didnt get any answeres!

hopefully someone can help us!

steve

I know what you mean, i have been asking all of the reputable performance shops around Brisbane, also NGK and what not, and all i have recieved back is, "ahh sorry we dont have them or even know where to get them!"

Gets a tad annoying considering i need them in order to do my long awaited turbo conversion!

Surely someone on here has a 33 GTR and has changed there 02 sensors!

G'day blokes,

Changed my GTR 33 sensors 2 months ago. Cost me $339 for the pair from Nissan(genuine at trade price). I went through the long drawn out process of looking, phoning and eventually talking to technical specialists at most aftrmarket places for replacements. No luck, not made for direct fittment.

G'day blokes,

Changed my GTR 33 sensors 2 months ago. Cost me $339 for the pair from Nissan(genuine at trade price). I went through the long drawn out process of looking, phoning and eventually talking to technical specialists at most aftrmarket places for replacements. No luck, not made for direct fittment.

Hehe,

I thought that this would be the response. I suppose i am just suprised that nissan succeeded in making absolutely every part for a GTR the hardest and most expensive parts to come by! :D hehe

Ohh well, i suppose $339 isnt toooo bad.

Thanks mate.

Oh and for the record, i even went as far as contacting specialised dealers in NZ and the UK with still no luck!! Unbelievable.

If the GTR uses normal Zirconia type Oxygen Sensors (like the RB20/25), which im sure they would, then just buy a universal sensor with 18x1.5mm thread (standard O2 sensor thread) and you cut the connector and wire from the old sensor and crimp it onto the new universal sensor. (it will come with the crimp terminals and everything)

Universal sensors are around $40 - $80 at most.

You can't solder Oxygen sensor wiring as its stainless. (Thats why they supply crimp connectors with the sensor)

If the GTR uses normal Zirconia type Oxygen Sensors (like the RB20/25), which im sure they would, then just buy a universal sensor with 18x1.5mm thread (standard O2 sensor thread) and you cut the connector and wire from the old sensor and crimp it onto the new universal sensor. (it will come with the crimp terminals and everything)

Universal sensors are around $40 - $80 at most.

You can't solder Oxygen sensor wiring as its stainless. (Thats why they supply crimp connectors with the sensor)

Thats the problem though. GTR's (32 and 33 anyway) use titania sensors that are very hard to come accross. Basically 32 O2 sensors (12mm thread) can be bought through NGK, and nissan, but 33 (18mm thread) i have only found through nissan so far.

Talking to Sydneykid, he mentioned that a generic bosch lambda sensor should work for this application and only cost around $80. I have not researched this yet to verify though, so dont take it as gospel. These sensors are available through places like Repco.

Tony

VL Commodore and R31 use Titania 02 sensors that have the smaller thread size, have you looked into them at all?

Titaniam sensors are smaller due to their design. They are actually not a self generating sensor like the zirconum type, but a voltage reference sensor.

What this means is that instead of self generating a 0-1V output, it uses a resistor that changes resistance with the air/fuel ratio to give a 0-1V output. It uses the power from the heater 12v supply.

You can interchange them as them as they both give a 0-1V output. The only thing to note is that all Zirconia type sensors are the larger 18mm thread and Titania types are typically the smaller thread.

I have in the past, removed the bung from the exhaust manifold/dump pipe with the smaller thread for titania sensor and got a bung from like R33 dumps that have the 18mm bung and used the cheaper Zirconia type sensors on RB30 engines that originally used the Titania type sensor.

Do the GTR dumps have a large 24mm bung that is screwed into the dumps with the O2 sensor hole inside the bung? If so the bungs just unscrew.

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...

Site sponsor Kudos does them HERE, but for a 32 GTR its still ~$325. FWIW R31/VL sensors are <$100.... I also need some, and i'll put them in when i install turbos and xforce dumps (which also come with reducers).

Does anyone know if all titania o2 sensors are electrically the same WRT sensor output? (and therefore theoretically adapable?)

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
    • The log you did with ECU voltage, can you log the other things too like rpm and oil pressure? Need all that info together to compare easily
×
×
  • Create New...