Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm soon to replace the stock front speakers in the line with some nice splits and I was going to replace the speaker cable too. However, I've had a quick look at the cable routing and it looks like it's going to be impossible to pull new cable through the rubber tube which joins the door to the chassis. Has anyone done this before? I'm hoping I don't have to pull the door off! ;)

BTW.. if I were going to run the splits off the headunit I probably wouldn't bother changing the cable but I plan to run them off an amp :)

Any handy hints are much appreaciated.

Thanks

Easy done bud, you are right when you say you can't go through the rubber tube but if you look about 10-15mm above it you will see a hole that you can pass the cable through without any hassles. If I get the time tomorrow I will post a pic for you :D

Thanks for the hints so far guys :laugh:

The biggest problem about just pulling it through is that the tube has a big kink in it. But I reckon that plan along with 2GU UP's plan would work. If I pull the rubber out of the door I should hopefully be able to straighten it out and pull cable through easier.

heslo if you can post up a pic that would be great. Your idea sounds like a good backup plan :D

I tried to do this... my rubber tube goes to a big wire-harness.

I unplugged the wire harness (on the a-pillar) and found a bolt holding the other half flush with the pillar. Undid the bolt, then lost the whole thing in the pillar hollow.

Pulled ECU and stuff out, but I can't see any way of getting in there. (got it back with my long finger, and lots of poking around in the hole...hehe)

Ended up putting it all back together and giving up on the idea... where would you run the speaker cable through? There are no other factory holes in my A-pillar.

hmm... well we have the same car RANDY so I wouldn't be surprised if I end up with the same trouble. Though heslo said he got it through another hole and he's got the same car too! We shall see where this wire runs when he posts up his pic.

I did this about a week ago... found I could not go through the existing rubber tube....

if you have a look about 10 - 15 mm infront (towards the front of the car) there is another little rubber gromet (think thats what they are called... i used that to pass the wire through...

(my bad if heslo and I are speaking about the same hole...)

parish, that's the same one I'm talking about! Easy to find, just have to look, even feel around with your fingers. As soon as you locate it, it will be easy for you to feed the wires through, you just need to know where to start

Not sure what the wire is for but I have fee 10g speaker cable through the factory loom and plug.

Very much a mission, but you basically unbolt plug in where loom goes through chassis. You can reach up under the dash to access that end of theplug, it simply clips into the chassis, then as you bolt the plug together from the door side, it holds nice and firm.

So after unbolting, you relocate a few pins (if using large cable, say 10-12g), so you can drill out plastic in bothends of the plugs. You then have a hole to feed your new wire. Then the rest is as usual.

Be careful not to pinch wire when bolting plug back up.

I have done this in both my skylines, very much a pain the ass, but worth it for the factory look.

I may have posted more detailed procedure on these forums previously, try a search if you want more info.

Hope this helps anyone wanting to do this.

I found the best way was to get a drill, pop in some new holes where required, custome make your own rubbers between car and door and run what ever you like through it.

My car is a s2 r33 and there was more than enough room for 2 x 8 guage power cable ( yes used as speaker wire) and a few other wires for "other devices" mounted in the doors.

If you do this, just remember to seal the holes around the rubber with some sealant, you dont want water getting into your ECU or anything..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
    • It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks.   I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard.    The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.
×
×
  • Create New...