Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have found that the fuel rail is the same.

Now i have to decide what size injectors to go for. I was looking at sard 600cc or 700cc. The 700cc looks like good value for money so i might get them... Also i think i might need a bigger fuel pump.

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2281624
Share on other sites

How much power/what other mods have been done to the car and what do you plan on doing? If you move to too big an injector you will just find yourself wasting fuel. I have been told a good option for a mildly modified GTR is to use 13B injectors, there 550cc and will only set you back about $50 each second had from somewhere like promaz.

If you are wanting bigger injectors though yes you will need a better fuel pump, I am currentley going through the same process as you with my car just buying all the bits and bobs to upgrade the fuel system as it's currentley whats limiting my car at the moment ;)

BTW are you the guy from shafted lan? Just the same nick that all :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2281899
Share on other sites

This is what I have done so far.

Garrett Gt 25-60R turbos

Full 3 inch zorst from turbos back

PFC

Splitfire Coils- (only because my old ones where a bit stuffed)

High flow panel filter

Nismo Adj fuel reg

I’m getting the PFC tuned atm as I just got it and plan on running 14psi of boost. My tuner suggested that I get some bigger injectors so that's why i'm asking, and I thought while i’m at it I should sort out the rest of the fuel system.

Also I do want to get some adj cam pulleys soon too.

I don't to to go more then 350rwkw as I don't want to push the stock internals to much.

My last tune on stock ecu I was getting 241rwkw at 10psi.

I don't know who shafted lan is, Zardos is also my online game name. ;)

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2282025
Share on other sites

I'm in the same boat as you then, i'm making about 300kw and the stock fuel system is pretty much maxed out. if you don't want to go more than 350kw 550-600cc injectors would be heaps and perhaps an 040 or something in the tank to suit. There's a thread around somewhere as well that shows how to rewire the fuel pump to provide it with the correct 13.8V instead of whatever it normally recieves which might be of some intrest to you also. The other thing to check is the flow rate of the standard fuel filters as this might also have to be replaced with something a little more high flowing.

I'm looking at doing a little more with mine, surge tank etc. I want to get bigger turbos down the track as I am still running stockies but I think in the end it all comes down to your budget.

Ah ok, nah it's just I know a guy that uses the same name as his online name too :thanks:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2282456
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for your advice it really heaps when someone els is in the same boat as you which makes it more easy to workout what works best.

Iam looking at the some right now and there are 540cc twin hole spray injectors and 550cc single hole spray injectors. Do you know if the twin hole will fit straight into the fule rail without moding, Also what different between them.

Also the 700cc from nengun are cheaper then 650cc,550cc,540cc and 530cc. This is why i was looking at the 700cc. So if i put 700cc won't i have less duty then using something smaller?

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2282806
Share on other sites

I have no idea about the difference between the single and twin hole spray injectors, i thought they just all had 4 holes that they spray out of?

I'm not sure the exact downfalls of putting in too big an injector, if you put in big ones and get it tuned for them i can't see there being a problem but people still seem to say don't go too much overkill. I think it's more if you put in bigger ones and don't get it tuned you will be pumping in too much fuel which is knida obvious to anyone i would think :)

Have a talk to Racespec there on this forum but they have pretty good prices on Sard injectors, about 900 for 700cc ones and a little less for smaller ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2283816
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
    • And....if that could be true for all R34 GTTs, then it might be good. But in reality it is not really any better than my standard instruction to "go out and have a look at it yourself, and wave a tape measure around" etc etc, because as soon as you have any adjustable arms, or coilovers with smaller diameter springs, or tyres that have any bulge that goes out further than the rim, etc etc, then the simple version of the information is still potentially misleading. Plus, nothing in this is static. Everything is moving. At the rear the wheels swing inward at the top as they go up, so the clearances on the inside change as the suspension is compressed. At the front it's even worse. And then you have the difference in absolute wheel position in the arch can move around more, or less, depending on how compliant the bushes are. If, like me, you have sphericals on the front caster rods (and on the FUCAs also, but these are probably less dominant when it comes to wheel position), then your wheel will swing forward/backward under loads, as well as up/down, as well as steering angle. You end up having the simple numbers with 17 caveats/footnotes for each.
    • Both windows operate normally while the engine is running but start to sag as soon as I switch off.  Does anyone know of reasonably priced replacements or other brands that will fit?
    • Actually PowerFC is probably the easiest to get basic data from, it comes with a hand controller and display so you don't need to remember to pack a laptop every time you drive. It also has a PC based viewing/logging option if required. Nissan used consult on these because back in the mid 80s, ODB was just a glint in a standard's body's eyes.  They switched to OBD shape around 2000 (my 2001 Cima had OBD shaped but not OBD compliant port) With the standard ECU there is a cable and software available to give basic data too, I think it is called Nissan Data Scan or s
×
×
  • Create New...