Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have found that the fuel rail is the same.

Now i have to decide what size injectors to go for. I was looking at sard 600cc or 700cc. The 700cc looks like good value for money so i might get them... Also i think i might need a bigger fuel pump.

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2281624
Share on other sites

How much power/what other mods have been done to the car and what do you plan on doing? If you move to too big an injector you will just find yourself wasting fuel. I have been told a good option for a mildly modified GTR is to use 13B injectors, there 550cc and will only set you back about $50 each second had from somewhere like promaz.

If you are wanting bigger injectors though yes you will need a better fuel pump, I am currentley going through the same process as you with my car just buying all the bits and bobs to upgrade the fuel system as it's currentley whats limiting my car at the moment ;)

BTW are you the guy from shafted lan? Just the same nick that all :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2281899
Share on other sites

This is what I have done so far.

Garrett Gt 25-60R turbos

Full 3 inch zorst from turbos back

PFC

Splitfire Coils- (only because my old ones where a bit stuffed)

High flow panel filter

Nismo Adj fuel reg

I’m getting the PFC tuned atm as I just got it and plan on running 14psi of boost. My tuner suggested that I get some bigger injectors so that's why i'm asking, and I thought while i’m at it I should sort out the rest of the fuel system.

Also I do want to get some adj cam pulleys soon too.

I don't to to go more then 350rwkw as I don't want to push the stock internals to much.

My last tune on stock ecu I was getting 241rwkw at 10psi.

I don't know who shafted lan is, Zardos is also my online game name. ;)

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2282025
Share on other sites

I'm in the same boat as you then, i'm making about 300kw and the stock fuel system is pretty much maxed out. if you don't want to go more than 350kw 550-600cc injectors would be heaps and perhaps an 040 or something in the tank to suit. There's a thread around somewhere as well that shows how to rewire the fuel pump to provide it with the correct 13.8V instead of whatever it normally recieves which might be of some intrest to you also. The other thing to check is the flow rate of the standard fuel filters as this might also have to be replaced with something a little more high flowing.

I'm looking at doing a little more with mine, surge tank etc. I want to get bigger turbos down the track as I am still running stockies but I think in the end it all comes down to your budget.

Ah ok, nah it's just I know a guy that uses the same name as his online name too :thanks:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2282456
Share on other sites

Hey thanks for your advice it really heaps when someone els is in the same boat as you which makes it more easy to workout what works best.

Iam looking at the some right now and there are 540cc twin hole spray injectors and 550cc single hole spray injectors. Do you know if the twin hole will fit straight into the fule rail without moding, Also what different between them.

Also the 700cc from nengun are cheaper then 650cc,550cc,540cc and 530cc. This is why i was looking at the 700cc. So if i put 700cc won't i have less duty then using something smaller?

Edited by Zardos
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2282806
Share on other sites

I have no idea about the difference between the single and twin hole spray injectors, i thought they just all had 4 holes that they spray out of?

I'm not sure the exact downfalls of putting in too big an injector, if you put in big ones and get it tuned for them i can't see there being a problem but people still seem to say don't go too much overkill. I think it's more if you put in bigger ones and don't get it tuned you will be pumping in too much fuel which is knida obvious to anyone i would think :)

Have a talk to Racespec there on this forum but they have pretty good prices on Sard injectors, about 900 for 700cc ones and a little less for smaller ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123360-injectors/#findComment-2283816
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I think my main complaint with your idea is that there is a veneer of idealism spread across it. You want the simple numbers to make it easier, but all they will do is make it easier for someone to come to the wrong conclusion because the fine details will kick them in the nuts. As it is right now, the tiny bit of arithmetic is NOT the obstacle to understanding what will fit and what will not fit. The reality of trying it is what determines whether it will fit. If you had a "standard rule" that R34 GTT guards have that magic 100mm space from the hub face to whichever side you were worried about, and someone said "excellent, this wheel is only 98mm in that direction, I'll just go spend $4k on them and jam them on my sick ride".....they would just as likely find out that the "standard rule" is not true because the rear subframe is offset to one side by a fairly typical (but variable) 8mm on their car and they only have 92mm on one side and 108 on the other.
    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
×
×
  • Create New...