Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Fark... i've got the perfect guy for you...

Just cant remember the blokes name.... ill find out and get back to ya.

He did some work on the mrs car and was so dirt cheap i couldnt believe it.

Great work aswell

ROSSCO!!!!! Where are you!!!!

There are NO GOOD AUTO ELECTRICIANS when it comes to Car security and alarms.

A guy that rebuils alternators is not the best person to take your car to for this.

Take your car to a place that specialises in the brand/type of alarm you have and have it fixed correctly.

Remember, that device might be the only thing between your car and a thief one day so go it done right.

As for resonably priced, honestly when it comes to securing your car, spend a few extra dollars, it could be worth it one night.

Yeah I'll try and find what type it is tomorrow. It was on the car when i got it. Your right frx o26 not worth cutting corners. I took it somwhere and i should of given them the alarm key coz the battery went flat. In end the central locking doesnt work and the alarm is so quiet someone breaking in would laugh. So tomorrow gunna sus out exactly what happened and find out what type it is.

Edited by gtst1976
Fark... i've got the perfect guy for you...

Just cant remember the blokes name.... ill find out and get back to ya.

He did some work on the mrs car and was so dirt cheap i couldnt believe it.

Great work aswell

ROSSCO!!!!! Where are you!!!!

Im here mate.

The guys name is Wayne

He owns / Runs an Auto Elect business in Clayton.

Shammy's Auto Electrics

9 James Street, Clayton

Ph 9562 8213

Fair load of rubbish in that statement.

Let me explain my point of view.

1 - Auto Elecs do not do any type of alarm install training

2 - Auto Elecs do not understand security products as it is something they see on an ad hok basis

3 - Auto Elecs whilst being able to wire the alarm so it will work, install them in the most obvious places and make the security system virtually an easy steal for a thief.

My point of view comes from 11 years or so in the Car Audio and Security industry both here in Australia and oversea's. I can honestly say that i have never seen a good instal from an Auto Electrician, and while most will not admit they do not like doing alarms and sound systems, they do it anyway, to a very poor standard.

My comments were aimed at having the person's car secured. Surely you must agree that taking your vehicle to someone that is specially trained and is comfortable with installing alarms and security devices would be better than taking it to someone who only does an alarm "when they have to".

The other point that I would like to bring up is in relation to insurance.

In my current posistion I have had to provide insurance company's a report on stolen/ recovered cars before a payout is made to the owners. One of the point's that must be met for an insurance claim to be valid ( by the company's i consult to) is that the alarm be installed by a person that is certified in that brand. In cases where the instalation is substandard or the installer was not trained in that brand, the claim has been denied, meaning the owner receives nothing. ( but they saved a couple of bucks getting the alarm done)

So I repeat my original statement.

There are NO GOOD AUTO ELECTRICIANS when it comes to Car security and alarms.

Thanks purple I'll keep him in mind. I didnt want to sound tight, but i just wanted to find a good auto elec that charges normal rates.

Yeah, you really cant go past wayne then. Tell him ross the accountant reccommended him to you. He will laugh :P

Yeah i figured that when he replied, when you wrote Rossco i asumed it was me, coz there aint that many out there. Anyway thanks a lot guys. I'll tell him that, cheers. Frx026, what your saying is 100% right but my alarm is already installed just need to find out why the module isnt getting the remotes signal. (not battery) The auto elec should sus it out. If not hopefully tell me the brand, its not marked anywhere (for obvoise reasons i guees) and it looks like i have to prof read before i send lol

Edited by gtst1976

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Howdy friends, So another weird one today, I was looking into replacing some broken clips holding the front grille for the R32 GTR (part number 01553-03831), and noticed the brackets which are supposed to hold the grille in place were also missing 😑. I do recall seeing this issue many years ago, but didn't fix it at the time. A quick look on eBay and I was able to find the genuine brackets, along with all the screws which suited the headlights (part numbers 26042-08U05,26092-08U05). Happy days!....  Once they arrived however there was an extra nut in the packaging which implied that there should also be a bolt or a stud, and sure enough, after a bit of searching I found this thread from 2013, and @Ants clearly shows a stud should be present. Reading around a bit more, it's possible the headlights on my car are the "povo pack" headlights as mentioned by @funkymonkey in this thread way back in 2008. This could explain why the studs are missing on my set of headlights. Looking at the headlight diagram I wasn't able to see a suitable part number for the stud itself. The headlight did indeed have a recess that looked like it would accept a stud, but interestingly no thread or anything obvious how the stud would be affixed to the headlight, I suspect it may have been glued in, press fit, or melted into the plastic at the factory. Another member may be able to clarify if they happen to have a genuine set of N1 headlamps. The only thing we have to work with within the recess is a keyway which likely is there to prevent the stud from rotating within the recess. In any case, back to 3D printing, I put together a model which acts like a pug with a friction fit inside this recess, making use of the keyway so it doesn't rotate while tightening a bolt. Printing in TPU will allow it to slightly swell making a nice snug fit without cracking the part. I've designed the adaptor it to accept an 20 mm M6 bolt (stainless with a cap head in my case), as opposed to the standard M5 stud and I made use of the standard galvanised split washer that came with the genuine brackets from Nissan. Once the bolt and screws were all in place, giving the bracket a gentle shake gave the classic "shaking the car" feeling, very solid, which gives me confidence this is going to be able to hold on much better than the janky solution which seems to have been here for the past decade or so. Overall I'm really pleased with how this turned out and maybe there are more people out there running these headlights without a centre stud at all! Link to the freely available model on Printables: Click here Regards, Sean  
    • Hey everyone, This is my first post apart of the introduction. I tried searching a bit on the forum but couldn't really get a straight answer. I got the car to my mechanic as I felt it being weak. It seems that it was missing on two cylinders due to the injectors. I had all my injectors clean and the car runs much better. The mechanic also confirmed my suspicions that the cat is clogged and needs to be tackled asap. The cat rattles a bit and the hot exhaust warning frequently lights up when driving after getting the injectors clean. In my introduction I was asked about what modification I might be interested in and mentioned a cat delete. From what I was told, this is not really beneficial on the RB20DE and there are more cons than pros.  Could perhaps anyone give some suggestions on what the best course of action would be since the current cat is toast and needs to be removed/replaced anyway? I can also sometimes smell a strong smell of fuel, but I'm not sure if this is related.
    • Hope the cans went down well at least 
    • 255 can't go wrong with the price.
    • When I was replacing my pump due to being stranded in the wrong state, I went with the Deatschwerks 320lph kit. It is a direct plug in to the stock wires, harness, everything. It comes with a plug... but you can plug the OEM plug directly into this thing. https://justjap.com/products/deatschwerks-dw300-fuel-pump-nissan-s13-silvia-r32-r33-r34-skyline-c34-stagea?currency=AUD Downside: Won't actually flow that much on boost if you want to push it on E85, but it's comparable to the 040/255 etc. Little more actually.
×
×
  • Create New...