Jump to content
SAU Community

Motorbike forums......!


d.3.v.i.l
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mark,

Perhaps we can go n do the course together...

I heard the one in Ingleburn, or somewhere near there,

Is pretty easy to pass....

Eric,

I've always wanted to get an R1, but after a few storys

I heard, not just from R1, but other big CC power wise,

I think I will just stick to a 250 only... :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

get a bike that you can fix easy cause when you get a learner bike you probably would lay it down once or twice.

If you can live with it get a crappy looking bike for a year and then get a nice bike when you get off your p's...

my suggestions are that you get a GPX or an ACROSS.... for about 3-4grand or even less if you get one that is from a private dealer.... (i fink thats the going rate rite now)

If you got the cash and wanna spend big for the learner bike you can go for a cbr or a zxr... try to stay away from the fzr, i just think its a piece of crap cause i had one and it was just a pain in the ass.... cbr's go around 5000-6000 i fink.... for a decent one that is coming out of a dealer or maybe around 5000 for out of the trading post...

don't forget that you probably would want some nice gear... so yah... around 1000 for a decent set of leathers... and another 500 for helmet. Talking about good leathers and a decent looking helmet.

So all in all it ain't cheap + fixing it when you drop it (knock on wood)

L's and P's are easy... just takes a **** load of time, bout 6 hours over the 2 days i fink....

Riding is fun... that is if you don't come off...

I think i've seen you car as well...

fark it's nice...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah the pre learner tests are easy as..... Anyone could pass it.

I did ! The test is two 3.5 hour days and is for the most novice riders.... The P's test is a 7 hour full day... With a 2 hour road ride and the M.O.S.T test back at the traning facility....

I got me a Xr250 road trail bike till I get off my P's then im going for a decent road bike with some grunt ! :shake:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

xr250's are great fun...

do you go trail biking alot?

i am thinking of taking that up instead of riding on the road seeing that i've always had bad experiences on the road...

what kinda bike would i be looking at if i wanted something with a bit of grunt and could go trailing with?

I heard the WR400's are alrite....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you're new to riding - do NOT get a big bike! Until you've ridden one, you have no idea how quick they are, and the torque by itself will no doubt get an inexperienced rider into problems (lifting front wheel, going way too quick into corners etc). As an indication, with a terrible launch, my bike (which is by far not the quickest bike out there) ran [email protected], which is a shade under 210km/h, and it's only just clicked into 3rd gear (out of six). Put another way, it'll do 0-200km/h in under 11 seconds. I can tell you from experience, that the first time you crack open the throttle on a big bike, your brain will kind of scramble. It's a bit hard to explain, but it's sort of trying to comprehend what's going on. It sounds a bit dramatic, but it really can be dangerous just trying to jump straight onto a 10 second bike.

Think of it like this - a late model litre bike makes around 130-140rwhp, and weighs at most 200kg, plus rider. So with drivetrain loss (not much on a bike) it might make 150hp and weigh 300kg with a heavy rider, which gives the same power to weight ratio as an R33 Skyline with well over 700hp. Give it a wheelbase of under 150cm, making it damn near impossible to keep it on the ground, and you start to understand. I work in a hospital, and the number of times I hear people say things like "I just bought an R1, and it just looped on me, I dunno what happened" is incredible.

Apologies for the essay but this is something that is really important to me. I cannot stress it enough - DO NOT get a big bike unless you have riding experience. Forget the macho "I can handle it" stand, learn how to ride before you try to ride something quick.

Phew, now that rant is over, I would recommend a CBR250R or RR as a good first sportsbike. My brother has one, and it's a great little thing. He has run 14.5 on it, which is about as quick as a stock R33 GTS25t, and it revs to 18,500rpm, it sounds like a Formula 1 car! You can pick up a very good condition CBR250 for around $3000 - $4000 if you look around.

As for dirtbikes, I'd recommend a DR. WRs are damn good but are a race bike, need rebuilds more often as they are more highly stressed. The DR650 (I think it's a 650) is a very good offroad bike, well behaved, well built, plenty of power, and handles like a dream. You can also get a DR250 if you're not ready for lots of cubes, and they're just as good, all they lack compared to the bigger bike is the power.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh yeah, forums :)

http://www.gixxer.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi: GSXR forums. I believe it's based in the US.

http://www.rrzone.com/forums: Fireblades

http://www.fireblades.org/forums/: Fireblades again

http://www.cycleforums.com/forums: General bikes

That's all I can think of at the moment :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That is typical (for a rb at least) with a medium to large turbo, noting the format of the graph is probably misleading what you see a little (half portrait width but full height, in landscape it would look quite different) Basically until it hits target boost the torque curve is rising steeply, when that is 4000+ rpm it is not great to drive since almost all of your life is between 1,000 and 3,000 rpm. Once you hit target boost the wastegate opens and torque stops rising so quickly. From there the shape of the curve depends mostly on the cams and where they have a peak vs the rev limiter
    • Last of the maintenance items for now....not sure why but the drivers side window switch had heaps of wear on the right front and right rear switches Unfortunately, unlike earlier Skylines the controls are bolted to the door trim from the inside. So....off the with door trim. There are bolts or screws: Behind the door handle cover, pop it off from the handle side Under the rubber trim at the bottom of the door pull (also just pops up) Behind the courtesy light at the bottom. Other than that, just window down then pop off the usual selection of push in clips around the perimeter and the trim lifts up Interesting that they have a bolt on cover instead of the old school plastic held on by goop....I guess they prioritised sound levels over price Then, 2 screws and 2 plugs to replace the switch (looks identical to the Fuga/Q70 one incidentally) and put it all back together. Also much better
    • ok I understand, but the majority of turbo vehicles lose torque, or have a flat torque curve after the spool.  hence my initial misunderstanding. I didn't think this type of curve was possible  
    • It is completely normal. Your original understanding is what was wrong, not what you see in the charts.
    • made with turbo and tuned by (hypergear)
×
×
  • Create New...