Jump to content
SAU Community

Motorbike forums......!


d.3.v.i.l
 Share

Recommended Posts

Daymn forgot to look at the forum for a day,

N I have a wealth of knowledge already... :D

thanks to you guys.....

Gook and Revhead,

I'm currently looking around with a mate, for a Cbr250RR.

Price range is around the $4 to $5k mark for second hand.

I'm trying to get it in Yellow n Black .

I'll be going for the course test in about 3 weeks time, then do the L test.

Eric, Whats the clothes doing on the wall..??

Have u still got ur bike...??

Did you have bad experience on it.??

Care to share if you did...!!!

Oh if you see an add for a CBR for sale, can you let me know as well..

cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a 92 zxr250c & if you want a more race oriented bike get one of these or a cbr250rr, dont bother with the single r unless its really good value they are more a nanna's bike, although still better than a across or the like! The zxr feels slightly bigger so if you a bigger lad maybe better. As for the power of a big ie: litre class bike revhead is right, i had a ride or 2 on a mates cbr900 a couple of days ago & the first ride just blew me away with how much acceleration they have, & how easy to whellie. To give you an idea, 2nd gear @ 100km's flick the clutch & feed the power on & up she comes, it's just awesome fun & this is a 94 model so would be down a little on power compared to Revheads929 or a R1!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally posted by The Flying Gook

xr250's are great fun...

do you go trail biking alot?

i am thinking of taking that up instead of riding on the road seeing that i've always had bad experiences on the road...

what kinda bike would i be looking at if i wanted something with a bit of grunt and could go trailing with?

I heard the WR400's are alrite....

Yeah go trail riding heaps man... Its really fun, especially when you got a few mates with you as well... Also riding on trails will improve your road riding big time....

The WR's are good bikes you might want to look at the Xr400's you can get 2000 models between 4 and 5k....

Cheers.! :uh-huh:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Get a v-twin for your first big bike. Smooth power delivery, low down torque, no crazy black lines when you get on the gas.

Japs make some good ones but go straight for a Ducati. It'll save you realising years later that you should have bought one first up. :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
Guest DeAd^MaN

well im planning to get zxr250 ninja so im looking for the manual for this bike especially engine manual...could anybody help me to get it or any forum which specially for zxr250

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
Guest MXjoker
Originally posted by Lepperfish

Barr the zxr250 and go for a CBR250RR there the best..I have one and there a really nice bike... Highly recommended...

hey lepperfish - cool avatar (your profile picture)

I don't recognise either of these models (zxr250 and go for a CBR250RR) are they off road bikes?

I have a CR250 (Honda 2 stroke - MX bike) but want to get a 4 stroke at the end of the year when all the new ones come out over here.

I have just done an enduro race today and could have done a lot better on a 4 stroke due to the conditions - MX bike really are better for MX riding than enduro but I will make due until I can get a 4 stroke

:uh-huh:

this is me all nice and clean before the start :P

by the time I had finished and been in every bog there, I didn't look so clean :) fortunately I managed to stay on the bike most of the day :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just bought a Suzuki Across... being a chick's bike and all, slow but very light, so really easy to learn on... got her for just under 4k with good mileage, immaculate paint job (which i've now deflowered) jacket and a spare helmet. Got told over the weekend that the Across's are the crappest learners bike, but I'm not having too many dramas, apart from having to clutch start it when i left the boot open - yes, there is a boot or helmet holder type thing, so good for my handbag, lip gloss and stuff...

I've already dropped her a few times, so don't spend too much money on your first bike, especially if you need a valium after putting even a tiny scratch on her.

Another option is the ZZR250 and I'm partial to the GPX250... happy riding, see you on the roads soon!! If you do the pre-learners course at Clyde, pray for Frank as your instructor as the other guy is mean!!! And screams if you give his bikes a bit... but it's easy as a hooker on William Street and if they passed me, they'll pass you!

Good luck son!! Once you get it, you won't want to get off... and you'll be contemplating upgrading after about a week. I'm already thinking of an R6... I'm off to go for another ride!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There is a LOT of stuff that can be done, it all depends on how much time and money you want to spend on doing in.  Not all ECUs will be able to do it, and the more control you need the more time and knowledge needs to be put into making it work.  If you're willing to spend the time and money and have the right hardware and skills involved there's a lot that can be done. 
    • I am impressed with all this level of adjustment. I didn't expect all this possibility
    • Correct.  In the case of the 500kw dyno plot I showed you the car actually runs two boost control solenoids for boost control and a 5psi wastegate spring.  It allows me to control how much boost pressure is applied to both sides of the wastegate valve at any point and fairly accurately control boost target as a result. I've tuned it so that it's able to target anywhere from 5psi to 25psi depending on what's needed.  The target tables I've set up in that car are Gear vs RPM, so every gear has potential for a different boost (and torque) curve.   First and second gear have quite low boost targets, third gear actually has different target boost all the way through the rpm range as it's a stock RB25 gearbox - the boost targets have been chosen to maintain a peak of 600nm (what the owner has set as the maximum torque he's happy with putting through the stock 3rd gear) but it carries that to the rev limiter.   The boost curve to achieve that is something of a ramp up, then hold, then ramp up again and the power curve looks more like a flat line haha.  
    • so you can decrease or increase the boost depending on the diet as you wish?     by acting on the wastegate?
    • That's torque and power, it's all from a single run.  The boost curve is "held back" from it's peak target in the 3500rpm to 5000rpm range from memory, so it ramps hard to something like 18psi then climbs more progressively to 23psi nearer 5000rpm.   It makes the torque (and power) ramp more "natural" and less hard on parts and traction, it doesn't feel artificially held back.   
×
×
  • Create New...