Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have 18" 235/40 at the front, and 18" 265/35 at the rear.

My mechanic told me 34psi all round. (By the way, he's an idiot, wont be using him anymore. Stuffed my timing belt fitting. But that's another post).

My rear tyres look nice and pumped, but my fronts look a bit low.

What pressures do you guys use with same tyre sizes?

I know it's been asked before, and yes i searched, and read the posts, but alas, here we are.

Couldnt get a straight answer. Very differing opinions.

I am just using it for street driving, no drag, no track.

cheers ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123584-tyre-pressures-for-18/
Share on other sites

I use 38psi.

You can actually damage the tyres, on the inside, from having the pressure too low.

Is that for 18", similar size?

A friend of mine just bought an Ford FPV Turbo 6. He has 19" from the factory. The tyre placard says 38psi.

That's what got me thinking. Also the jarring shocks from the cr4ppy sydney roads feel awful through my front tyres.

The strange thing is that my rear tyres (265/35/18) look well and truly pumped at 34psi.

r.jpg

where as the front (235/40/18) look kinda flat at 34psi.

f.jpg

is this because of the different series?

I think i remember something about bicycle tyres, especially thin racing type, use a higher psi. Probably because there's less area to fill, so the pressure is greater inside. Not sure what the theory on all that is.

i'm going to try 38 at the front, but might leave the rear on 34 for now.

Running 38psi all round now.

Seems like a good call.

Apparently, low profile, higher psi. That's what i was told... here and out there. Even 40psi would be ok.

Has to do with the sidewalls being less able to support themselves, higher psi helps keep them in check.

something like that anyway. plus i'm running nankangs, and these have got weaker nylon sidewalls, apparently.

So cowie165, maybe 40psi was ok. Have you had any probs with uneven wear (in the middle) at that pressure over the last year?

Hi Tony,

The tyres are Federal SS595s with 7,000km and they are wearing evenly, which is great to see :happy:

The lack of sidewall flex you mentioned is the reason I was using 40psi. Hrmmm. As an aside, it's a higher pressure but lower volume than smaller size (15", 16" etc) tyres (ideal gas equation).

Mark

Since we are on kind of the same topic how much do you guys recommend on 235/45R17? Been using 38 guess Ill have to lower it now, just wondering would this actually ruin the tyres in anyway if you have it too high?

My concern would be bloating the tyre, and therefore wearing the center tread prematurely.

But lets see what Al says. lol.

My concern would be bloating the tyre, and therefore wearing the center tread prematurely.

But lets see what Al says. lol.

You brushed on a good point there. A lot of guys new to sports cars believe that higher pressures = improved handling.

Whilst that may be true for your family mobile with a tyre placard suggesting 26psi for the Camry, sports cars generally already have higher pressures. Increasing them further bloats them just like you mentioned Tony and you actually end up with a smaller contact surface than if you ran them ~4psi-over-recommended. You need to find that nice happy medium :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @joshuaho96 Hmm considering the drama you've seen/experienced, have you looked into getting a built complete long motor shipped from Australia?  Considering the AUD is basically monopoly money when compared to the USD, at a glance this seems like a good option?
    • Bloody Skylines, they put you through the bloody wringer! Stick at it! Stunning drag strip BTW! Where is it? Can see part of the name on the slip and probably should just Google it!
    • I mean the other day I had to walk someone through diagnosing why their timing belt was walking off the cam gears. At least one of the issues was a bent tensioner stud. Local mechanics have found runout on the CAS mechanism causing weird failures. I'm also no saint here I've documented some of the things I've had to learn the hard way. Something I discovered recently is that my CA emissions catalytic converters weren't even welded correctly to align the downpipe to the main cat and they tossed the support bracket that goes from the transfer case to the downpipe to support everything there. I spend a lot of time chasing down these decidedly unsexy problems and the net effect is it feels like I never actually get to the original objective (flex fuel, VCAM, oil control, cooling, etc).
    • At times with how you make everything sound, all I imagine Americans doing when they see a gtr is standing there looking at it and bashing it with a gun like how a caveman would with a club and hoping it fixes itself 
    • I think this is just a product of how the US market works for this stuff. Shops are expensive and there's no real way of knowing what kind of results you're going to get, people don't really have the institutional knowledge. I have heard too much at this point to really put faith in anybody "full service" except maybe DSport and they aren't really a full service kind of shop. If you go to the right place I have no doubt they'll get it right for you. Some locals have set it up right but the cost really is nuts and even now they're still fighting issues. And you know I'm a crazy person who thinks things like twin scroll, relatively short low-mount cast headers, PCV recirc to intake, recirculating BOV, right-sized for ~400 whp, MAF load, validating all of that to a standard comparable to OEM test programs, etc are relevant. For what it's worth, multiple local owners at this point have been stuck in a perpetual cycle of blowing a motor -> getting someone to rebuild it -> some missed detail causes the bearings to wipe and spin just outside of break-in mileage or drop valves or some other catastrophe -> cycle repeats. I usually only find out about this because I'm perpetually helping random friends with diagnosing car troubles, Skyline or otherwise. The single turbo stuff if I'm honest is mostly secondary, it just doesn't seem to achieve the numbers in the ~2000-3000 rpm region that I would expect given the results I've seen here or in Motive's videos. I don't really know what we're missing here in the US to be causing this. Lots of people like to emphasize the necessity of finishing the project first and foremost, but I'm not made of money and I can't afford to be trashing a 15k+ USD engine build with any regularity. Or spending my relatively limited garage time these days unable to triangulate problems because too much was changed all at once. Also, even if it isn't a catastrophic failure I would consider spending the cost of single turbo conversion with nothing to show for it to be pretty bad. 
×
×
  • Create New...