Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

for those that dont understand technical stuff, were you saying 10w 60 is good or bad?

he was saying it's bad. to get an oil to have such a wide spread it needs to have additives put in. these are bad. something like redline or motul 300V are 100% synthetic ESTER. which uses a different base stock. much, much better properties.

You are a brave man spinning an R32 RB26 to 9000rpm...

lol, I was just thinking the same thing. mmm stock RB26 - 9000rpm... problem is, it probably makes less power at 9000rpm than it does at 7000. unless we are talking big turbo(s), big cams.

is there any reason too high oil pressure is bad? mine is up at 85-90psi at idle when stone cold, and drops to 40-50psi at idle when warm, then hits around 80psi on full rpm under load. its a jun oil pump though, and im running the castrol 10w60 edge as well. it this just because of the relief valve spring being stronger in jun pumps?

is this a benefit ive got such good oil pressure or is there a downside to it?

40-50psi on idle? Sounds too much. The old general rule was 10psi/1000rpm. So theoretically if you rev it to 2500rpm and you've already got max pressure, thats not a good thing because after that, the oil is being bypassed back into the sump. So thus you're recieving the same amount of oil at 2500rpm that you are at 7000rpm. Probably not a good thing, as bearings like lots of oil flow.

Anyways have a read of this. Its a good tutorial on why thicker oil is not necessarily better.

http://63.240.161.99/motoroil/

Edited by Busky2k
lol, I was just thinking the same thing. mmm stock RB26 - 9000rpm... problem is, it probably makes less power at 9000rpm than it does at 7000. unless we are talking big turbo(s), big cams.

wouldnt have a clue what its got in her..? turbos are stocks so i presume when i took them off and back on. the kakimoto chip took off speed limiter and increased the rev limiter to approx 9000rpm. its weird but im not complaining.

anyway back on subject my point is the castrol R range oils are really good.

Ryco filters are alright. i knw that valvoline r piss for money. but still ryco is a step ahead of valvoline.

EDIT: just a question. certain oils lower fuel consumtion right.. what is a good milage (kms) to get out of a GTR tank?

Edited by markimak

I have around 6.5kgcm2 (90psi) over 4000rpm. Running 5w40.

Castrol 10w60 over 4000rpm was simply too thick for the way my motor has been setup, I was seeing 8.25kgcm2 (117psi).

Idle is always ~2 kgcm2 (30psi) and cruising around 2000-3000rpm is 4-5kgcm2 (57-71psi)

I really don't know the history of the pump, I bought it second hand as an rb25det oil pump and was in good condition, no wear and very clean.

I'm guessing my use of 10w-16 Castrol Edge is part of the reason my oil temp never gets above 85c, or am I just not driving it hard enough?

It may have something to do with the Nismo thermostat i installed in the car when i did the turbo upgrade.

ok so can anyone tell me if this is wrong...

on the stock oil gauge, at cold start up, needle goes to 6, then as it warms up as u start driving, it comes down to 4. if your stopped at the lights, it drops to 2

is this bad?

Thats very normal for a healthy car Michael man.

I use castrol 10w 60 and add the nulon e20 additive havent really noticed high oil pressure.

Reading all this info i think i will change to a 10w 40, but i have been told that it is not good to go changing to different brands of oil and that you should stick to one or is that just marketing.

It has a N1 oil pump and the car pushes out 400 rwhp. Should i just stick to the 10w 60.???

subzeroR33, I mentioned this in another thread but basically there is no harm in switching oils. Oils themselves continue to go under reformulation as industry standards change (API/ACEA/OEMs etc) so that Castrol R you bought 3 years ago is not the same as what you buy today.

I'd say on your next oil change give the 0W40 a go, eg the Castrol Edge 0W40 and see how you like it. My bet is you will. :wave: Cheers.

Edit - Oh yeah and bin that Nulon stuff. Teflon dont belong in engines. Even the inventors of Teflon said so themselves. :D

Edited by Busky2k

I put a bit of time recently into searches on synthetic engine oils because there is so much conflicting information doing the rounds .

The first surprise was that the 10W of for example 10W40 is not a cold viscosity rating but a cold pumping index . The author of that thread said how can you make a fluid more viscous by increasing its temperature . He said this is what the marketing types want Joe average to believe .

The second was that there appears to be only four or five manufacturers of real synthetic base stock oil on this rock .

The third was that many advertised synthetic oils are really modified mineral oils or as some say "Dino Oil' .

The fourth was that Castrol R/Edge oil fits this category .

I find it hard to separate truth from fiction because I've never damaged an engine that had enough oil in it . I think I'll be leaning towards Mobil 1 except for running in . I'm keen on the idea of lower viscosity synthetic oil and oil coolers .

Just on that 80+ PSI running oil pressure , I was always told that all very high oil pressure achieved was power loss with driving the oil pump and heat build up in the oil itself . Not flaming just repeating what I was told .

Cheers A .

I'd say on your next oil change give the 0W40 a go, eg the Castrol Edge 0W40 and see how you like it. My bet is you will. :) Cheers.
Why is it that the 10W-60 costs $70 and the 5w-30 (which is what many in here recommend) is only $50 yet from what i've seen they are both identical oils (just different ratings) ?

Maybe the extra viscosity range required about 2 bux more worth of additives...so they add an extra 20 bux on it...or maybe supercheap thinks they can rip us off by upping it by 20 bux because we see a bigger range on the bottle.

subzeroR33, I mentioned this in another thread but basically there is no harm in switching oils. Oils themselves continue to go under reformulation as industry standards change (API/ACEA/OEMs etc) so that Castrol R you bought 3 years ago is not the same as what you buy today.

I'd say on your next oil change give the 0W40 a go, eg the Castrol Edge 0W40 and see how you like it. My bet is you will. :dry: Cheers.

Edit - Oh yeah and bin that Nulon stuff. Teflon dont belong in engines. Even the inventors of Teflon said so themselves. :(

Thanks for the advice.

Why is it that the 10W-60 costs $70 and the 5w-30 (which is what many in here recommend) is only $50 yet from what i've seen they are both identical oils (just different ratings) ?

I'm not real sure. Its probably something you'll have to ask Castrol. Maybe just a marketing thing? I would hypothesize that the 10W60 has higher levels of additives but without an oil analysis, I cant say for sure. Funny its the inverse with Mobil, where Mobil 1 5W50 is a fair bit cheaper than their 10W30.

The Castrol Edge is fully Synthetic all the others are not.

I have put the oil in and a new filter and the car runs fine.

I used a ryco filter and then I I read the post by (cubes) 3 days after should I change the filter and also what is tunneling.

This is what cubes posted up.

(The repco filter I ran did whats known as tunneling (I chopped it open), apparently valvoline filters do this also.

So I wouldn't be touching ryco.)

Edited by RB SANDY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



×
×
  • Create New...