Brake Ducts For R32

[tacker]

Does anyone know if there is a kit for attaching the brake ducts to the back of the heat shield on the front of a R32?

regards

[Roy]

I dont think you will find a kit. Also, next time you are changing your wheels or pads have a look in there. Its awfully crowded with driveshafts etc, and the std rotor and shield isnt really big enough in diam to free up enough space for aduct.

The more common approach is to buy the Nismo ducts or the more common approach is to use ducts to guide air to the general area, also has the benefit of coolign air over the caliper and pad...but not as ideal for directing airflow to the inside fo the rotor for optimum cooling

[Ronin 09]

can the dust covers on the front... gives you a bit more cooling this way

[Trust33]

are you only using them for the track.Cause thats all i would bother using them for.... you wouldnt want to direct any free flowing nasties in that area from the street.

there is an easy appraoch and that is to run a duct from arround the front to the lower controll arm and then mount it hard to let it cool and do its stuff.

Im guessing that you could also make it so that the duct is attatched to the calliper so whenever you turn the wheel the duct stays in the same location inside the wheel you could even run a large main and make a splitter of 2 smaller ducts so that 2 locations arround the rotor and calliper receive air.

Food for thought.

[Roy]

But there are arrangements that look similar to the dust covers. Only the covers OD is the inner diameter if the rotor, or the inner edge of the rotor depth.

You run a duct to this cover and basically it forces the air into and out the rotor....thats how to do it properly. They look very similar to a dust cover, in fact the std dust covers could be used in conjunction with some nice 376mm rotors, as they would be about the right size...only again, there just isnt enough room in there with the std hubs etc etc

[tacker]

i will post some pics later but i did manage to get a 90mm od aluminimum flex run right up to the back of the backing plate.

I did have to change the shape to allow the wheel to get full lock both ways and the LHS was a right pain but they are about 50 from the backing plate directed at the centre of the plate which has large holes as standard i guess to allow the rotor to suck in cooler air.

Works ok as i have 2 portable fans to place in the front of the car when it has finished its run and even though it is stationary i can feel quite a lot of air traveling through the duct to the brake rotor, would just be nice to have the ducts connected to the backing plate to get all the cooling i can. Might have to get inventive with some aluminimum pipe and rivet that to the backing plate .

And when i get that done i am going to build me a home made cool suit as running around in 40 + temps is not doing me any good either

Edited June 25, 2006 by tacker

[Beer Baron]

nice one. very interested to see pics

[tacker]

Ok before you say it i do have the correct clamps on order for the ducting, and believe me you have to order everything over here no just nicking down to the local hardwhare etc etc.

you can see by the pic i have managed to get it to the back of the dust plate or what ever its called. I did bend it out of shspe just to give it clearence but as you can see it has not touched it once yet.

The front of the duct has been cable tied ( as well ) to the mesh so it should be ok with any large bits and pieces finding their way into the brake area.

Also it hard to see but their are some slots about 65 mm long and 6mm wide, there are 4 of them and this is what i have directed the duct at. And it seems to work as the last track day i had no fad issue at the end of either straight even with just old bendix ultima's, cant wait to try the project U level 900 pads.

[sav man]

nice work, what size are your tyres and wheels?

And is there any harm in removing the dust cover thing from the back of the disk?

[N1GTR]

Ok before you say it i do have the correct clamps on order for the ducting, and believe me you have to order everything over here no just nicking down to the local hardwhare etc etc.

you can see by the pic i have managed to get it to the back of the dust plate or what ever its called. I did bend it out of shspe just to give it clearence but as you can see it has not touched it once yet.

The front of the duct has been cable tied ( as well ) to the mesh so it should be ok with any large bits and pieces finding their way into the brake area.

Also it hard to see but their are some slots about 65 mm long and 6mm wide, there are 4 of them and this is what i have directed the duct at. And it seems to work as the last track day i had no fad issue at the end of either straight even with just old bendix ultima's, cant wait to try the project U level 900 pads.

Surely there is somewhere that sells the ducting like an Autobarn?

Where did you order it from if you dont mind me asking mate?

[tacker]

Oh how i wish there was at times, but no there is no place like that here although i am finding a few little shops here and there.

I found this in a small shop selling plumbing supplies i think it is a flue for a gas stove. What ever it is it works well it comes about 1.2 metres and streches to just under 2 best part was it was only 8$

And i have now put a good sized cable tie instead of the skinny little buggers i had it the first place.

Have some sad news though have come to the realization that i have been kidding myself. After an R 34 showed up with F$#%ing Ferrari F 40 brakes on it. I could not believe how deep he was going into corners before braking, either that or he has a delay switch on his brake lights, was just incredible. So am now on the look out for a set of F 40 Ferrari picks. And i have just learnt that 90% of a cost of a Ferrari is its bloody brake set up, so i can forget that.

Now in deep thought.

[Craved]

UAS in sydney had a set of F50 brake Calipers and BIG 355+ rotors for sale for like $4500 on the weekend

maybe try them if your keen

[tacker]

Sav man, sorry mate was traveling and missed your question

the wheels are 18" and 245 x 40 series hankook K104

[sav man]

cool, my wheels are the same size, so i should be able to do that same set up.

[Swiper the Fox]

UAS in sydney had a set of F50 brake Calipers and BIG 355+ rotors for sale for like $4500 on the weekend

maybe try them if your keen

Harrop engineering has monster front and rear kits 381 6 pot fronts and 356 4 pot rears for $8100 19'wheels only

see www.harrop.com.au for more details on this retina detaching kit.

Edited July 6, 2006 by DiRTgarage

[Sydneykid]

I have read all the books and checked out every race car I can get my head under for 30 years. I know the theory says feed the ambient air into the centre of the rotor so it flows evenly out though the vanes. But the fact is less than 10% of the race I have seen actually do that. Because of the shit that is in the way that stops you from getting anywhere near the centre of the rotor with any decent sized ducting. So they simply point the ducting at the inside of the rotor in the most accessible place.

As you can see from the following picture, that is precisely what the Gibson guys did on the rear of the R32GTR Group A car.

My rule is, if it’s good enough for Fred, it’s most likely going to be good enough for me.

cheers

[Sydneykid]

are you only using them for the track.Cause thats all i would bother using them for.... you wouldnt want to direct any free flowing nasties in that area from the street.

I use air filter medium at the front of the ducting, works a charm. Just take it out occasionally shake off the crap and stick them back in.

cheers

[Roy]

My rule is, if it’s good enough for Fred, it’s most likely going to be good enough for me.

cheers

True, but you look inside of the Ferrier's F3 car, or any other purpose built car. And it goes for cars that use ceramic/steel whatever rotors. When there arent any design limitations they duct to the inside of the rotor. That is the optimum position.

Now on road cars, or homologated touring cars that typically use std car pick up points etc, its near impossible other then to throw abunch of air in the right direction. Technically you read that it can cause localised cooling of the rotor and possibly warp rotors. Not likely to happen, given all the turbulence in there...but its not bad to keep that thought in the back of your mind and just make sure you dont have the duct outlet too close to the rotor face.

I love that pic, look at the hub and shock bottom etc, a lot of homework has been put into that rear. The back of the R31s , and the front look great as well

[tacker]

Well my effort is not in Freds league but i did manage to get quite some air flow into the centre of the dics i can feel it when i put my hands throught the wheel ( stationary of course ) and with the fan blowing air directly into the duct work i can feel air coming out all around the outer vents of the disc.

Still i think i need to get a bit more metal ( larger brakes ) so i can compete.

Sav Man i would try and get a smaller diameter duct as i did have to adjust ( see flatten ) one section to claer the wheel on full lock.

On the LHS i had to run ducting around the oil coller but one length of this duct was plenty to do this.

I do now recommend ( ha coming from a newbie ) removing the backing plate as it will allow a whole lot more cooling to take place.

[Roy]

This is the sort of arrangement that would work really nicely on a street car (Well in my opinio )

Replace the stds duct shield, combined with a larger rotor, use a duct to the inner edge of the rotor...it would work really well. Clearance though, and workign out a robust means to mount the guide to the hub once the dust cover is removed. On the GTSt the dust shield is spot welded to the hub.