Turbo Scrapping Noise

[silver gts-t]

i just finished replacing my old high flow witha td06

everything went fine when i kicked it over apart from 1 problem, when i turned it over the turbo was making a scrapping noise. almost like a duck noise

it was consistent for the 1min then i turned it off

i installed a 34 row oil cooler and oil filter relocator but didnt do anything to pump oil through them 1st.

could this be the cause??

[silver gts-t]

update..

i move the front wheel with just my fingers and every so often it would scrape finely, but not on every revoloution..

i'm not thinking it could be the front housing,

at one stage i had it off to adjust the IC piping but i would think the circlip would lock it in place??

is it possible to be off center??

[paulr33]

yeah it souinds like the comp wheel is scraping on the inside of the comp cover or shaft itself. ive got a shagged t28 on my desk at work which suffered exhaust wheel failure and it scrapes when you rotate it (ableit it has no active oil feed). it has a bit of shaft play, but obvious grinding/scraping

[silver gts-t]

thing is, while off the car i would turn it and there is not scraping.

and theres also no shaft play

[R31Nismoid]

TD06... Trust... there should be shaft play dude.

Its bush bearing.

Much more than a Ball Bearing core.

Side-to-side there should be minor movement. In-n-out there shouldnt be play though.

The housing "might" be off centre, although i would doubt it.

Take the turbo off, dont start it again till you've taken off the housing to inspect it properly.

If the housing does seem ok, feed a bit of oil through it, and get a compressor to blow the turbine around and observe what it does.

Best you can do DIY @ home really as the housing touching isnt a good sign

[paulr33]

hmm sounds odd then, would it be safe to try and start the car with the comp cover off to see if still scrapes then? im not sure if this is safe or not

[silver gts-t]

ok so lets say it is scrapping the side, whats worst case senario?

[R31Nismoid]

Worst case - Rebuild the turbo time.

Kit is at a stab i think $400-$450... im not sure the current pricings, so about $800 all balanced etc etc etc

Best case - Just a housing

[Roy]

Well first of all. Take the turbo off and remove the housigns and inspect the insides and the wheels. You ahve had them apart for the the ceramic coating, did you polish the compressor cover? Make sure the circlip is driven all the way home on the compressor cover.

While your at it make cure the v-band clamp is tight and alignment ok. They shoudl be fine as they drive themselves home as you tighten them...but still worth a look.

Next is once its all back in place then i would pull the oil supply line off the turbo and put it into a 2L bottle of coke etc. Pull the plug off the ingtier module and turn the car over. Keep going until you get a good bit of oil in the bottle. I used soem machine oil directly inside my housing to give it a bit of lubrication on first start up.

Juts make sure the bottle is clean so when you are done you cna just pour it back inot the engine.

Fingers crossed its just a bit of mislagignment with the circlip not seatd properly.

Worst case, hmm. if the compressor is damaged then send the turbo off for a rebuild and throw a GT30 compressor on it.

[R31Nismoid]

Yeah, you need to check the wheel (i forgot to mention) when you take it off.

If its been rubbing. A good chance its damaged. If it has been eaten, the housing can simple be machined if there is a bit missin

[silver gts-t]

.

[silver gts-t]

ok, thanks..

ill pull it apart again..

hope its just a misalignment

it was all looking so pretty

[Roy]

Looks good...but where are you running your oil return line to?

[silver gts-t]

standard engine spot

its just long

[Roy]

Why not just run it under the manifold in one big 90 deg arc?

[silver gts-t]

the banjo on the line had more room to move and wasnt as close to the block when it ran horizontal..

but its still long enough to run under the manifold

[Roy]

So your oil retuen line has a banjo bolt? Mine just had a tube stub that i pushed the hose over and hose clamped into position.

The oil feed is the banjo bolt off the block that goes to the top of the engine, well in my case anyway.

Im not sure how criticla it is, but oil returns are meant to be pretty direct and as smooth a curvature as possible (basically free draining)

My oil feed runs all over the shop as well, i dont think (hope ) its so critical.

Anyway, im probably just reading the pic wrong

[silver gts-t]

whoops, i mis read..

i was talking about the feed..

the return line just runs back into the standard position also..

its a fat 3/4 hose