Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Cheers, now just need to find some rims. Thinking 19's :)

Agreed, it looks nice! And yeah, you will need some big rims so it looks right with that front bar - not to mention the fact that Stageas (both M35s and C34s) just swallow those wheels up and can make them look small if you don't choose the right design and offset.

Coming Soon... Very Soon :)

is that from iron chef? saw that on his web site and it looked awesome, went with mine because I was a wanker and wanted sunroofs!

good luck with it!

Any other Impul goodies apart from the kit?

Looks very nice! :thumbsup:

I saw it advertised.. from memory, Its got an FMIC with 'CALSONIC' stenciled on it, an extremely large pod filter and non-stock intake.. unsure if it goes all the way to the turbo or not, full exhaust (Could be Impul, likely given the body kit - although Im not up to scratch with my exhaust kit knowledge), and that suspension is definitely not stock.. I didnt see if it was just lowered on springs or if it had full coilovers though. Id suggest a high probability of an Impul ECU in there also. The thing has 28,000km on it - apparently genuine too :worship:

He sent through the de-reg papers to me the other day too. Who ever owned it took it out on weekend by the looks of it. Has books too. The whole car is clean inside and out. The underbody is spotless....

I saw it advertised.. from memory, Its got an FMIC with 'CALSONIC' stenciled on it, an extremely large pod filter and non-stock intake.. unsure if it goes all the way to the turbo or not, full exhaust (Could be Impul, likely given the body kit - although Im not up to scratch with my exhaust kit knowledge), and that suspension is definitely not stock.. I didnt see if it was just lowered on springs or if it had full coilovers though. Id suggest a high probability of an Impul ECU in there also. The thing has 28,000km on it - apparently genuine too :worship:

That "Calsonic" intercooler is the one that Impul sold for a short time for their M35's.

You can still find them second hand, for around the $600 mark (plus shipping/commission)

Exhaust is a Legalis.

If it is lowered by Impul, it will just be springs.

Nice kit though! :yes:

That "Calsonic" intercooler is the one that Impul sold for a short time for their M35's.

You can still find them second hand, for around the $600 mark (plus shipping/commission)

Exhaust is a Legalis.

If it is lowered by Impul, it will just be springs.

Nice kit though! :yes:

Kit is sweet IMO...

I just assumed the intercooler was a generic with Calsonic painted on it but bonus if it's actually Calsonic... Are they ok?

What was the zorst? (excuse my lack of knowledge)

Kit is sweet IMO...

I just assumed the intercooler was a generic with Calsonic painted on it but bonus if it's actually Calsonic... Are they ok?

Yeah its a nice looking kit, not too outlandish but still different enough to stock to look aggressive :thumbsup:

Its an upgraded Intercooler; dunno anyone else in Aus with one of those.. Impul wouldnt have used it if it was crappy though, Im sure it flows fine :thumbsup: It looks to be similar size to the HDi ones a lot of us have, so it'd be at least 2x volume of the standard size :)

Kit is sweet IMO...

I just assumed the intercooler was a generic with Calsonic painted on it but bonus if it's actually Calsonic... Are they ok?

What was the zorst? (excuse my lack of knowledge)

From what I have gathered, they were a very good cooler, but cost Impul too much for the small market that wanted them.

Fujitsubo Legalis is the exhaust.

Brilliant unit and is the same design that Nismo used in their first M35 exhaust (I had a legalis - now on Scott's car, and changed it to a Nismo).

Have a search for the aftermarket exhaust thread I made a while ago if you want the basics of the unit

  • 1 month later...

wheels are 19x9.5 +/-0 fronts +12 rears. RacingGear coilovers, which are pretty damn stiff. I've had my guards rolled but not lipped. It only scrubs with 4 ppl in the car (has about 2 credit cards clearance between rear wheel and guard)

You can always go lower and wider ;)

ahh 19s.. I just got 18*9.5s +35s work emotion 11rs with 20mm? spacers on the front and nothing on the rear, I have rolled but yeah not flared. Its auto as well so the rear cradle is shit. Tein super street sports wagon coilovers. Springs aren't the best, 6kg or some shit. Might have to get custom springs.

Form over Function

shit I ment 18x9.5, not 19's! work emotions are my dream wheel, with my same specs, should look great on your car. do you have adjustable rear camber arms? mines running stupid camber in the rear (~5 deg) 

I agree with form over function, I have to evaluate driveways and speed humps to see if I'll clear, but it's worth it :) 

ahhh 18s thats sounds better haha, yeah 2500 bucks worth of wheels from J land. :) Yeah i have everything adjustable in the rear atm. I need to get front camber arms otherwise my new 240 dollar tyres are gonna be fudged.

Well Im gonna put bigger spaces on the front and maybe the rear, and look into stiffer springs. :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Also, the cause of fuel spills and smells from the top of the tank is almost always the rubber hoses that are up there, not the tank seal.
    • 1. No, as you say you can remove the connectors and fuel lines. Before you do make sure you remove fuel pump fuse and crank the starter a few times to release pressure, and also loosen the fuel cap (just in case the tank is slightly pressurised) as it will pump out the lines otherwise 2. Not necessary but you are right, if it is the factory pump it is at risk of failing after 25 years....Changing it is not hard but potentially not trivial as you have to make sure you have the right pickup/sock for the pump to suit the tank, need to make wiring connections (crimped butt connectors would be fine) and have to mount/adapt the new pump in the right place in the cradle. Not impossible but don't start the job if you aren't confident. Also, the plastic nut that holds that seal in place can be really hard to remove. If you don't have a fuel nut removal tool it generally requires a big screwdriver or similar to bash the ring around a few times before you can get it by hand. Also the fuel lines can be very sticky on the tank lid fittings, hose removal pliers can help or if not twist the hose on the fitting (eg with linesperson's pliers) to break the seal before you try and remove it. Finally, mark the feed and return hoses so you don't put them on backwards and seal them with an m8 bolt to stop crap getting into the lines while working. Add a little grease in the threads of the plastic lid when you go to do it back up as a gift to your future self, and make sure you put it on evenly/not cross threaded.  Having said all that, most likely the lid just needs to be either tightened or removed and put back on without being cross threaded...the seal itself is usually pretty good.
    • Another weekend and another project I have questions about.... I bought a fuel tank sender O ring to install on the car because I'm quite sus on what I've got now.  1. No "whooosh" sound when opening fuel cap 2. If I fill up full tank, there will be a small leak under the car and it comes from the top of the fuel tank, dripping along the side. Stops after a short while 3. Hot days = 50/50 chance to get high as a kite inside the cabin if the car was in the sun for too long This is what I bought: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/1734279900 My plan was to just replace the O ring but I've got some questions: 1. Does the whole fuel pump assembly need to come out for me to replace the O ring?         Or, could I unplug all the connectors and fuel lines at the top, take off the twisty part (17343) and put in the O ring from the top?  2. Is it a very common thing for everyone to just change the pump whenever doing this?        I see the Walbro 255 gets thrown in a lot but I've got no issues with my pump so far. When I did the tune, I asked the guy to check my fuel pressure and he said there were no issues too. But is it just a good idea to change to the 255 anyway as the old unit may have been in there for so long? The 255 seems to be a direct fit for GTT (I got no soldering iron)  
    • Normal speedtek issues, bin it and go cdoo# or 8hp. So many issues with these gearsets, a mate went through 3 rebuilds and multiple parts with heat, bearing and vibration issues.  
    • I wouldn't go near them, they are rubber seals for a reason. Just chuck new cam cover seals, half moons and the spacers for the screws every decade or two. I add a really thin layer of silicone too and it seems to hold together OK  
×
×
  • Create New...