Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hopefully some quick n Easy Questions for the techo's on the site. I have searched the site topics for answers but with no luck. I drive and learn bits n peices as I go along so If my questions are simple it indicates my knowledge :glare:

My RB26 engine has just been rebuilt with JE forged Pistons, Eagle rods and Tomei Pon Cams (260 degrees/9.15 lift) in/ex.

Q1. I'd like to know what the cylinder compression should be?

The reason being I have had two readings from different garages 85psi (all 6) and 120psi accross all 6.

Prior to the rebuild, with the stock internals, 155 accross all 6. Could my bad battery cause the inconsitency's. I am advised the Pon Cams do make a difference - what should the readings be?

Q2. Spark Plug in cylinder 1 had oil on it. 2-6 are fould. Is this part n parcel in the first few hundred Km's? Could it be from the front turbo if it has been stuffed or the run in tune?

My engine has about 450kms on it now.

Q3. My R34 N1 Turbs (3 months old) were fine prior to the rebuild. After the R&R now #1 (one) makes noises when it was first fired up and ongoing, What could be the cause or issue? Stored for 15 months while the rebuild was happening. (whinning zzzzzzzzzzzzz sound).

Q4. Should there be lots of blow bye and smoke occuring when it was initially started/ongoing? If not what is the possible cause/issue. The oil catch can was left in place during the R/R and was fairly full, but has since been emptied. Smoke has reduced somewhat but what/how do you test or rectify blow bye? What does it indicate?

Q5. I have heaps of black spots showing on the rear of the car, and black dust all over my garage floor, out the exhaust ? Part of the bedding in or is it just tuning ? Heaps of fuely smells while driving!

Q6. The AF mixture was initially set to 14.7:1 (lean?). on the PFC, Is this OK? Z32 AFM's.

It has been changed by a different tuner but apparently is now pinging (knock). Now being re-tuned to suit the AFM's.

Q7. The Aux air valve is blocked somehow, what is the effect ? Can it be clearaed or is a new one required?

Q8. Finally, Is it common to have noticable traces of fuel in your oil at the first oil change ?

Thanks in advance for your experiences/knowledge.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123757-8-questions-on-rb26dett-rebuild/
Share on other sites

6. AFR is not related to ecu type or model, its related to the tune and how the tuner has tuned it. pinging is usually related to much advanced ignition, but can be affected by running too lean also. 14.7 is ok for cruise and ideal but for max load and during boost build its too lean

In regard to your compression test, i am unsure if it is normal but i bought my car that already was built with forged pistons and a 1.2mm head gasket, it also has tomei cams that are around 260 degree (i dont know till i pull covers off exact specs arnt written on the recipts) but i also comp tested at 120psi.

In regard to your compression test, i am unsure if it is normal but i bought my car that already was built with forged pistons and a 1.2mm head gasket, it also has tomei cams that are around 260 degree (i dont know till i pull covers off exact specs arnt written on the recipts) but i also comp tested at 120psi.

thanks Alex - *breaths easy* thats good news to me.

Q2. Spark Plug in cylinder 1 had oil on it. 2-6 are fould. Is this part n parcel in the first few hundred Km's? Could it be from the front turbo if it has been stuffed or the run in tune?

My engine has about 450kms on it now.

Q4. Should there be lots of blow bye and smoke occuring when it was initially started/ongoing? If not what is the possible cause/issue. The oil catch can was left in place during the R/R and was fairly full, but has since been emptied. Smoke has reduced somewhat but what/how do you test or rectify blow bye? What does it indicate?

Q5. I have heaps of black spots showing on the rear of the car, and black dust all over my garage floor, out the exhaust ? Part of the bedding in or is it just tuning ? Heaps of fuely smells while driving!

Q8. Finally, Is it common to have noticable traces of fuel in your oil at the first oil change ?

Thanks in advance for your experiences/knowledge.

If its blowing oil smoke *not condensation* when starting or after sitting idling and giving it a quick rev its a sign of valve stem seals, it is very possible and has been known for them to be damaged when during a head reco process.

My plugs were clean and the oil never smelt like fuel. I did multiple oil/filter changes within the first 1000kms.

It did use a little oil until around 4,000km's after that it hasn't used a drop, I've now done 40,000km's.

the fuel in the oil might be from running excessively rich or one cylinder not firing and the fuel is washing bores and going past the rings into the sump oil.

my comp test after only 500km with 272/11.35mm cams was 155psi so that under 100psi readings sound wayyy off.

oil on one plug shows its not firing from memory

thats my opinion, what do others think of those ideas?

I have done around 7000km's on my newly built engine, using 87mm CP Pistons and Tomei cams, and a recent compression test showed ~180psi across all 6 cylinders and a leakdown figure of 6-7% across all 6.

Can I ask who built and tuned your engine?

Have you done a leak down test?

hey sinista32,

i rebuilt my engine not long ago pretty well the same. je pistons 260 poncams etc. because piston 5 and 6 ring lands decided to melt. bad blow by before rebuild

i had a really bad problem after the rebuild of blowing blue smoke when idling, cruising but not boosting.

after about 1000kms i finally worked out that in the cam covers there are filters before the pcv outlets. mine were blocked and because the pressure couldnt go anywhere it made its way into the combustion chamber, hence the blue smoke,

i removed the cam covers and soaked the filters in kero,

havent had a problem since.

it was heaps embarrasing when you have just rebuilt your motor and its blowing smoke all over the place...

let me know if this helps

cheers

Jeremy

Edited by DVS32R

Thanks for replying guys

Cruise and Blitz - Thats what worried me on #1 cylinder, possible fuel washing the bore/s. It's highly unlikely but it wasnt worth risking.

I think a leak down test is in order.

180 PSI That's good - I'm not certain what it should be but I note one post quoting 120 from GTR1993. I expect it should increase over the run in process. However, Who would be the authority on whats the norm?

DVS - I'll get the filters out of the cam covers and cleaned. I might have the same issue. Good advice. BTW as your build is very similar Jerry whats your compression readings ? (few cars up here with the Hektic stickers on)

Cheers

Richard

This is totally hypothetical so i dont know if this it true:

When you go to a larger duration camshaft low end performance suffer because of the increased overlap (i know this doesnt have to be true but generally increased duration has increased overlap) Anyway, with increased duration low rpm performance suffers, now cranking a cut is very low rpm only few 100 rpm, does this mean that there will be a lower PSI reading as increased overlap is bleeding off cylinder compression??

when i had the blue smoke issue, i carried out a compression test with stock cams. it was 155psi on all 6.

only recently put in the poncams. havent done a comp test yet. has had a few hard dyno sessions. i will do a comp test this weekend if you would like.

are your Je pistons 40 thou oversize?

did the person that built your motor know that je pistons use smaller clearances then most forged pistons.

cheers

ps i dont know what hektic stickers are. i just put hektic on my profile thingy cause i like it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Who did you have do the installation? I actually know someone who is VERY familiar with the AVS gear. The main point of contact though would be your installer.   Where are you based in NZ?
    • Look, realistically, those are some fairly chunky connectors and wires so it is a reasonably fair bet that that loom was involved in the redirection of the fuel pump and/or ECU/ignition power for the immobiliser. It's also fair to be that the new immobiliser is essentially the same thing as the old one, and so it probably needs the same stuff done to make it do what it has to do. Given that you are talking about a car that no-one else here is familiar with (I mean your exact car) and an alarm that I've never heard of before and so probably not many others are familiar with, and that some wire monkey has been messing with it out of our sight, it seems reasonable that the wire monkey should be fixing this.
    • Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
×
×
  • Create New...