Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 In A 32 Gtst


play r 32
 Share

Recommended Posts

hey everyone just chasing some feedback from anyone who has succesfully done the rb26 conversion into a r32 gtst.

how mch did you pay?

what sort of power are you putting out?

how driveable is the car being only RWD?

I will be joining the twin turbo club in about a week when my car comes out of the workshop, so just keen to hear of other peoples experiences.

Cheers. Ben

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i realise this, but when gtrs became cheap i had already spent the money on mine painting it and doing bodykit to make it look the way i want, now it just needs to go fast.. Also while its not the cheapest option building a fast car instead of buying one, it is bloody good fun.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well thats true, as long as you have something to drive for teh few month sits going to be in the shop.

I couldnt see it costing less than 6k and thats if you have pretty good relationship witht he guy doing the work if not its going to be higher. Thing is you tend to think "may as well while im at it" very often which throws costs right up cause nobody wants to do it basic.

Honestly you are better off working on the engine thats in there. The rb25 is not that far off the 26 really and you can get a bunch of power out of it and still have good response if you do it right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

its an r32, probably only has a rb20 in it..

as for the conversion, its not overly complicated, keep the engine mounts, and mounting plates from the 20, and bolt them to the 26, ecu should not be a massive hassle to wire in the stock unit, at a guess, it'll plug into the factory loom without any mods, tho don't quote me on it, but given its a 32, you'll find rhge primary looms are pretty identical throughout the series, and swapping motors is just a matter of pluuging the 26 ecu/engine loom into the factory loom as is..

things you will run into hassle with..

gearbox, forget using the 20 box, you'll kill it in a flash, you'll need an rb25 box, they're about $1500 atm, to get it mounted without butchering a factory gearbox cross member, chance are, an auto silvia cross member will fit up without having to re-drill or weld tabs on as is normally done, you'll also need to sort out the speedo drive, but a navara speedo drive goes straight in and fixes the issue..

the other big issue is the sump, the standard GT-R sump will not fit, you will need to chop the diff off, smooth it down and weld up the old holes that the front diff shaft leaves when its removed, not an overly complicated task, but it takes a fair while of band sawing and sanding it down..

rought cost estimations..

complete cut about 6k

25 box 1.5k

labour?

if you get a complete cut that has the factory cooler, pipe work etc, it should realistically take a good workshop a few days to remove the 20, remove the 26 from the cut, mod the sump, swap over the required parts and drop it back in...

its a pretty straight forward swap..

add to it an exhaust, a new clutch while its all out, and your on the way..

what you can do to make some money back, is sell off the gt-r box, usually they go for about 1k to 1300 bux depending on condition..

trick to it all is finding a good condition cut, and having it come with all the parts needed, but id say, you'll be up for about 10k all up to pull it off..

Edited by Denver
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey denver thanks for all the info mate. Sounds like your pretty clued up on the hole thing. Mine is actually nearly finished, should pick it up next weekend!

I know what your saying boostzor, with the "while im at it" the only extra i got suckered into was a programmable ecu. my cost for the finished project are

complete engine: $5000

labour, including removing rb20 and painting covers candy gold: $2000

A/M ecu $1200

FMIC $200

so im driving out for $8400

I am using redline oil in the RB20 gearbox for now, my mechanic did this with his own 26 powered gts and its been over a year now and still going strong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

haha didnt mean to start an oil brand loyalty war! i didnt realise there was that much difference. Il put the rb20 box to test anway lads and let you know how long it lasts. I could go straight for the bigger box but this is good for experimental purposes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There's also a fair chunk of weight saving in the GTS-T without the front diff, drive shafts etc compared to the R.

Keep the modifications focused on good low down torque, set the suspension up for traction (plenty of squat) and don't compromise of tyre quality and you'll have a very quick and balanced car.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah thats right gav. Ive seen some 26 powered RWDs run some really quick times without huge mods. they sometimes make up for the loss in traction with the weight advantage.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I havent actually heard form anyone who has already done the conversion. Does this mean there isnt many out there or are you all just keeping quiet so you can sneak around looking like normal gtst's. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I havent actually heard form anyone who has already done the conversion. Does this mean there isnt many out there or are you all just keeping quiet so you can sneak around looking like normal gtst's. :D

I've done it into an R32 GTS4 if that helps any?

Swapped the motor and gearboxes over and left the GTS4 diffs in place ... has 408rwhp atm and in RWD mode is a bit of a handful :D I think in the end it cost me around the 15k mark but I did a few things like single turbo conversion and PowerFC etc. Good luck with it though - its a shit load of fun as you'll find out :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
I've done it into an R32 GTS4 if that helps any?

Swapped the motor and gearboxes over and left the GTS4 diffs in place ... has 408rwhp atm and in RWD mode is a bit of a handful :nyaanyaa: I think in the end it cost me around the 15k mark but I did a few things like single turbo conversion and PowerFC etc. Good luck with it though - its a shit load of fun as you'll find out :rofl:

mine wont quite be that powerful but thats what i was mainly wondering, how much of a handful is it going to be in RWD? Its only a light car. But im sure it will be fun as long as i keep it in one peice haha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

been there done that. you'll be in for some fun times for sure.

its been awhile now but i think my std 26 made around 350

with aftermarket management.

and then up to 470 with big single turbo and cams. it was the fastest rwd skyline

in perth running a 11.1 1/4 mile. that may of been beatin not sure.

the conversion is quite straight forward i did mine at home myself.

post-840-1152780329.jpg

Edited by GOT BOOST
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey gotboost. yeah i know your car i have seen it around before. It was one of the cars that inspired me to go for the conversion. So far its going really well. I pick up the microtech ECU tomorow and most of the fiddly things are done like making the oil sump. I am replacing the big end bearings in the motor to be on the safe side. Im hoping to be driving it next weekend at this stage, but these things ALWAYS take longer than expected. Spewing its not done for the cruise!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

with regard to the gbox, a friend has a 26 in an r32 gtst with 507rwhp and ran an rb20 box for quite a while. it was daily driven, he did a few track days and took it to the drags once or twice. was only starting to get a bit notchy and noisy after well over a year.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ben you know my car, though its a gts4 most of the process was the same. Good fun in rwd, but the heavier weight is noticable. Makes 310rwhp with pfc.

Total cost for mine

gtr half cut (brakes, box etc) $4000

labour $500

fuel pump $200

cooler $200

so all up about $5000, then power fc, injectors, Z32 afms and tune, so with that about 6k.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You all are absolute legends! Thank you for helping me put this into context with your comparisons!
    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
×
×
  • Create New...