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Rb26 In A 32 Gtst


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i just had a friend of a friend tell me having a RB26 in a R32 GTS-t makes no difference and saying that his R33 GTS25 will still beat it, because of his engine and weight. how funny is that :D

Yup, deffinately smokin some good stuff! haha

Car Is amazing to drive now, i cant believe how much more torque the 26 has. even off boost it is different car.

So far the 20 gearbox feels good. The redline oil got rid of all the little crunches.

My only issue at the moment is the fine tuning of the microtech. Its been running mega rich and using a bucket of fuel. Cold starts where a bitch but that seems to have been fixed now.

Im thinking i made a mistake going for a microtech over a power FC D-jetro. But you live and learn.

Cant wait for some dry weather to really be able to try it out. at the moment i cant even hit boost in 3rd if the roads are wet!

remix your car looks sweet. what ecu are you using? How many kms to a tank are you gettin?

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hey dude,

did you contemplate about on a 25, 26 25/30 in the r32

or did u just go straight for the 26?

is it cheaper to forge a 25 then using a standard 26? (talkin drift sense here to get input for my r32)

you paid 5k for a 26 but would a 25 front cut with gearbox is better?

im thinking of a few combinations

where did u get yours done at? (your brother told me but i forgot now lol)

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i did origanally by a rb25 with a twin turbomanifold setup sleekman. and i did think of a few of the combinations you mentioned but my mechanic just had this rb26 sittin there all ready to go so it was just too tempting.

Peter Grey In Gidgegannup did it for me. Top skyline mechanic. He used to race them and knows them back to front, inside out.

whats your real name? how do ya know my bro?

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hey ben hows it going..adam here with the r33! last time i heard yo were chucking a rb25 in and then.... wooosh rb26 comes out of nowhere hahaha, cant wait to see this thing go aye!

Edited by Syde FX
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what did ya do with teh 25 with the tt setup on it, im interested in maybe eitehr boring my 25 to a 26 or going a tt25!

Trying to sell it mate. I think the TT manifold and turbos are gone but i still have the rb25 and the rb20

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No they are custom twin turbo manifolds so they fit the gtr turbos but match up to the rb25. It came with 32 gtr turbos.

You coulda bought my R32 GTR for 15.5k

Sold now, had a new R33 GTR engine in it with 40k on it and two new turbos with 10k on them.

Oh well GL with ur project.

Mates also got a r32 gtst with R34 26 conversion, N1 turbs, ecu etc things a rocket when it grips.

Edited by exhale 32
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    • There are a few variables here, some are relevant but not critical (IMHO) to help answer your question. The two major things: 1) Ignoring anything to do with forced induction - all engines have their own natural torque curve, and it will ALWAYS roll over higher in the rpm.  There is a fixed relationship between power and torque.  When dealing with kw and nm, the relationship between them is roughly: kw = (rpm * nm) / 9549 nm = (kw / rpm) * 9549 The peak torque of an engine (without boost) will typically climb until somewhere nearish the middle of it's operating rev range, give or take a bit - then start dropping again.   The nearer the minimum and maximum rpm of the engine the steeper that drop off tends to be. 2) Boost simply increases the density of the air going into the engine, which inflates the torque at that point.  The ramp up in the torque curve you see on a turbo engine is due to the boost rising, but it's essentially just multiplying the torque you'd see if it was naturally aspirated.  The roll over you see at the end will typically be what would have always happened with the engine, whether it was naturally aspirated or turbocharged.   If the torque never started dropping then power would climb infinitely. The cool thing about this is you absolutely can tune the power delivery to suit the needs of the owner and/or the limitations of the car, and I regularly do this.    With modern turbos we've got to the point where a setup that someone may run well over 20psi of boost with could actually reach target boost well under 4000rpm if the tuner/owner WANTED to - and a lot of people seem to do this when there is actually no realistic benefit, generally it just adds a massive amount of strain to the engine and drivetrain and often actually makes the car harder to drive. As a general rule I tend to tune the boost curves for cars I tune to reach a "useful" torque level through the rev range and will often end up with a curve that ramps hard to a point, then creeps for the rest of the rev range - not to make the boost curve "soft" as such, but more to make sure its neither laggy nor pointlessly violent in it's delivery.   There have been cars I've tuned to be almost like a centrifugal supercharger (or naturally-aspirated-ish) where they actually only hit like 8psi of boost before opening the gate, then ramp up the next 10psi over the rev range... if the car is "loose enough" to drive. On the flip side I've tuned a car that had stock cams and the engine's natural torque curve fell over HARD in the higher rpm and resulted in a slightly awkward power curve to work with, in that case I actually started ramping up boost to boost torque in a way to offset the engines "NA" torque drop off... at peak rpm actually running a good 5psi+ more boost that what the "flat curve" would have defined.  This gave the owner an extra 500rpm or so of useable rev range, and had a fairly solid impact on times he was running at motorsport events due to being able to hold gears a bit longer and also falling into a more useful part of the rev range in the following gears. Here's an example of an RB in a GTSt I've done the "softened" boost curve to not pointlessly ramp straight to the max boost target early in the rpm, but still made sure it builds useful boost.  If you went in the car you'd not guess at all that the boost curve was doing anything "weird", it feels like it spools immediately and accelerates relentlessly (traction dependent) and holds to max rpm.   I don't know if you'd guess what the boost curve was doing by driving the car, or even looking at the dyno plot... but imho it suits the combination.  
    • therefore on the first examples, as we see, changing cams (graph 2) influences the quantity of torque at high revs its OK for me. so a tuner can act on the wastegate via the boost controller to increase the boost at high revs? on the last example, the boost does not decrease ok, but the torque does. this can come from cams etc etc ok. but on the other curves the boost is not constant, it increases, this is what I find strange to my mind. even more so if it comes from the relief valve. sorry I'm very new don't blame me. in my mind I couldn't imagine how the boost could be higher after the spool  
    • right, but fundamentally, for a given mechanical setup, you are either using all the torque (and therefore power) it will give, or you are choosing to run it less efficiently. Many tuners will have a practice of identifying peak available torque and then winding it back a couple of % for safety, but unless you are working around a very specific issue like a weak gearbox, there is nothing to be gained by making 20 or 30% less than the engine can
    • You can manipulate the torque delivery by ramping in boost gently, then throwing it all in after peak torque to keep the torque flat. It's nothing magical.
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