Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Indeed! the engine itself wasn't expensive, neither was the conversion (expensive in time and energy.. RB30 built, fitted and running in a weekend :D).

The expensive parts come now.. need some custom bonnet work, need a tune along with a z32 afm and some bigger injectors.. I can feel this 20 box isn't very happy being behind a 3L now so a 25 box is going to be needed soon O_o

On the funny side.. got the RB25 turbo that I had on my 20 on there.. full boost by 2000rpm and no lag, instant boost! heh even untuned and running like shit it was pulling up a big hill in 5th at 2000rpm.. 3L ftw :D

Our 26 is here in the workshop now , box n twin plate here also .. gone for 34 bellhousing n pulltype ..

Once the new turbos n tomei manifolds arrive we will fit up n drop it in the hole ;)

Be running by christmas :P

Just thought I'd update.. car is now running fine on the chipped ecu from the group buy.. with r&r removed it revs out but, I don't rev it past 5.5-6k or give it much of a hard time till it gets tuned.. 2 weeks away <sigh> :D

flahs once you get a 26 your car will be exactly what i imagined my car to be like when i first started modding, vertex kit and all. Mine was originally black. Somehow i got sidetracked though ? you got the vertical doors hey? :closedeyes:

5500ish for the engine

i would recommend not to get scissor doors as it is a pain to install and there will be cutting in your front fender and plus the gas strut will hit the inside of your fender and you will have a lil ding

Edited by Flash89

hey all im new to your forum but ive done the rb26 into a r33 gtst it was excellent in fact i cant suggest it highly enough its not laggy at all it can paint the roads with black lines whenever you want they rev nice the standard twins exhaust and cooler got me 340 at the wheels :O netted me a 12.20 @116 mph on street tyres i did the conversion myself but when it comes to sumps i just bolted my old rb25det sump on there was a second set of bolt holes on the bottom of the rb26 block i had to grind away part of the oil pickup but that was it. being an r33 i had the rb25 5 speed and that thing is still going strong total cost around 5ish for me i think i used everything from the half cut plus a new clutch and thats about it i think but compared to the rb25 powered r31 ive got my 33 shits all over it my r31 makes similar power on low boost but it would have gotten its ass handed to it by the r33 on the street or the racetrack

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will need to extend the turbo inlet pipe somehow, which could/might be done with silicone/rubber pipe, but might need steelwork, depending on your intake. And you will need to change the pipework on the outlet in teh same way, but this is more likely to need steelwork.
    • I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages
    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
×
×
  • Create New...