Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all im new to your forum but ive done the rb26 into a r33 gtst it was excellent in fact i cant suggest it highly enough its not laggy at all it can paint the roads with black lines whenever you want they rev nice the standard twins exhaust and cooler got me 340 at the wheels :D netted me a 12.20 @116 mph on street tyres i did the conversion myself but when it comes to sumps i just bolted my old rb25det sump on there was a second set of bolt holes on the bottom of the rb26 block i had to grind away part of the oil pickup but that was it. being an r33 i had the rb25 5 speed and that thing is still going strong total cost around 5ish for me i think i used everything from the half cut plus a new clutch and thats about it i think but compared to the rb25 powered r31 ive got my 33 shits all over it my r31 makes similar power on low boost but it would have gotten its ass handed to it by the r33 on the street or the racetrack

Not a fan of using the tin sump , loose 4 of the mount bolts n non baffled also strenght .. what we paid for sump mod it isnt worth the hassle .. after all spending a heap of $$$ we not going tight ass on a sump

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

i know what you mean i got two trap door baffles put into mine because you have to cut the original baffle anyway to get the pick up in place i dont know about you but i can weld steel but not alloy so it was just easier just fpor the record my sump has since been replaced with a high energy version specifically for rb26 into rwd coversions so problem solved either way

runs like shit when its cold it misfires and carries on like a big bucket of shit hahaha its alright once its warm though ive had it tuned a few different times trying to fix the cold start and what not still shithouse i think its a rb26 thing though cause my rb25det r31 runs awesome and it has a lt12s as well makes good power fuel consumption isnt even that bad but it was tuned by mike from factory re so hes getting my rb26 r33 as soon as the new engine is built and back in :rolleyes:

could this be all done at home, right now i am in the process in getting a R33 gearbox with the custom tailshaft, also got a power fc coming as well as the complete engine, so yeah

  • 1 month later...

back on this thread, hehe. got the engine with wiring loom, gearbox custom tail shaft, power fc, 044 fuel pump. now i am just trying to get the engine all pretty. im going to have it stock for about a year or so then upgrade turbos etc etc. need to get clutch, flywheel and need the sump modified. anyone hook me up with that. will there be any lil bits i might have to get??

when installing you able to use the RB20s engine mounts?? this is a R32 RB26 by the way

Edited by Flash89

You need to get the ballast resister pack wired into the loom somewhere, modding the sump can range in price depending on how much you do yourself and what you want done to it. You'll have to bolt on your RB20 engine mounts onto the RB26 or it wont fit. You'll need 32r radiator hoses as well. Have you found a front pipe for the turbos yet?

IF your doing it yourself as well, get a few mates, and drop the motor and box in as one piece. Also ring nissan and order every gasket you can, including the rear main seal.

been searching the forums but cant really find anything that helps me. also another thing i am thinking can i use the 20box mounts for the 25 box.

so that is a yes that i can use the RB20 wiring loom just need to get a ballast resister pack. what is the reason for this, or could it be easier just to use the RB26 wiring loom.

rear main seal??

Use the 26 loom, youll have to if you running the twin turbos anyway, so youll need the resistor pack wired in for the injectors.

You'll need to modify the gearbox cross member, or make a whole new one for the RB25 box to fit, and then get the tailshaft made up.

All these little things are covered in various thread around the place (RB25 box in 32 gtst, RB26 into gtst, RB26 maintenaince, etc) search up.

my yellow beast is up now up for sale. Im going to europe next year so i gotta pay off the loan somehow ;)

Will be in the autotrader next week for $18 000. a lot of time and money has gone into this project. in mods alone i have spent well in excess of $20 000.

post-27803-1197948724_thumb.jpg

post-27803-1197948797_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My hold point for future mods is that I want a OEM detachable hard top first, but, finding one is a pain, MX5 Mania are looking for one for me, but, as hens teeth are more common, finding one in Australia is proving problematic  I can get a OEM one from overseas, hell, you can still get new ones in 'Merica, but, shipping is a absolute killer and I cannot justify the cost, or the risk of it being damaged during transport As for the aftermarket hardtops, whilst they do the job of being a hard top, and are fine for a track car, they don't seal well (read: leak like a sieve in the rain), and you need a plastic/poly rear window, plus they are a bolt in option only and not made to be easily removed I liked how the hard top on my NB could be fitted, and removed, by myself, in less than 5 minutes I know it sounds bad, but I'm waiting for someone to write off a car with one so I can swoop in on their pain, it will go to a good home though, so my guilt of this is tempered
    • I’ve got one on mine and it’s fine, 
    • No, you don't want to plug the vacuum line, as that will turn that side of the booster into an air spring and probably make it feel worse. I'm not saying that the GTR master itself doesn't need a booster. I haven't paid attention to the GTR one to know what size it is cf the non-GTR ones. But when you think about it - they have to do the same job, which is to move a little slave piston a few mm to do what it is supposed to do, and that final action is the same on all the cars. So, it is very unlikely that the GTR MC is any different than the others, because it has the same pedal stroke and the same output requirement. The booster just makes it feel easier. I'd suggest you probably have an actual hydraulic problem. It's totally common on these old shitboxes.
    • Ye, in terms of bolting up the "Conversion" from a GT to a GTT is effectively "Use GTT parts for everything" Except the subframe itself, because you won't want a HICAS/4WS subframe. Remember your ABS system will be different too, thanks to GT being the S15 3 sensor system, instead of the R34 4 sensor system for wheel speed. I do not know how people get this to work given R34 diffs do not have a provision for an ABS sensor (they are on the tone wheels of the axles). I assume***** people use S15 gear/R34NA forever when they realize this - Or they convert it to a rear diff/axles that are R33 style which I presume has the singular speed sensor on the diff itself, but then you have to wire it all in and...and... and...
    • Foreshadowing was never so easy.
×
×
  • Create New...