Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 In A 32 Gtst


play r 32
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 121
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Indeed! the engine itself wasn't expensive, neither was the conversion (expensive in time and energy.. RB30 built, fitted and running in a weekend :D).

The expensive parts come now.. need some custom bonnet work, need a tune along with a z32 afm and some bigger injectors.. I can feel this 20 box isn't very happy being behind a 3L now so a 25 box is going to be needed soon O_o

On the funny side.. got the RB25 turbo that I had on my 20 on there.. full boost by 2000rpm and no lag, instant boost! heh even untuned and running like shit it was pulling up a big hill in 5th at 2000rpm.. 3L ftw :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our 26 is here in the workshop now , box n twin plate here also .. gone for 34 bellhousing n pulltype ..

Once the new turbos n tomei manifolds arrive we will fit up n drop it in the hole ;)

Be running by christmas :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just thought I'd update.. car is now running fine on the chipped ecu from the group buy.. with r&r removed it revs out but, I don't rev it past 5.5-6k or give it much of a hard time till it gets tuned.. 2 weeks away <sigh> :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

flahs once you get a 26 your car will be exactly what i imagined my car to be like when i first started modding, vertex kit and all. Mine was originally black. Somehow i got sidetracked though ? you got the vertical doors hey? :closedeyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i got du luck kit but now thinking wide body. yeah i got scissor doors but i am going to put back the stardard cause the scissor are not ADR approved :closedeyes: now thats a waste

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5500ish for the engine

i would recommend not to get scissor doors as it is a pain to install and there will be cutting in your front fender and plus the gas strut will hit the inside of your fender and you will have a lil ding

Edited by Flash89
Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey all im new to your forum but ive done the rb26 into a r33 gtst it was excellent in fact i cant suggest it highly enough its not laggy at all it can paint the roads with black lines whenever you want they rev nice the standard twins exhaust and cooler got me 340 at the wheels :O netted me a 12.20 @116 mph on street tyres i did the conversion myself but when it comes to sumps i just bolted my old rb25det sump on there was a second set of bolt holes on the bottom of the rb26 block i had to grind away part of the oil pickup but that was it. being an r33 i had the rb25 5 speed and that thing is still going strong total cost around 5ish for me i think i used everything from the half cut plus a new clutch and thats about it i think but compared to the rb25 powered r31 ive got my 33 shits all over it my r31 makes similar power on low boost but it would have gotten its ass handed to it by the r33 on the street or the racetrack

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You all are absolute legends! Thank you for helping me put this into context with your comparisons!
    • There's probably an underlying issue with the A/C system too. I recently fixed mine, now it's fully control by the Haltech and car's factory HVAC controller  Have a squiz here:    
    • And by the way, I've also checked the ECU diagnostic numerous times and got a bad O2 sensor code and initially an Ignition Primary code, which is why I replaced the O2 sensor and all the ignition components (coil packa, plug and loom). No codes have been coming up lately despite the ongoing issue.
    • Hey pber13, unfortunately still no luck. At this point the following has been done with little or no success: - Spark plugs replaced, gapped to 0.8mm - Splitfire coilpacks installed to replace originals - Replaced Ignition Coil/Coilpack harness with a new genuine nissan one - New fuel filter - Replaced AFM/MAF sensor - Injectors have been thoroughly cleaned with an online flush (without removing) - Upper engine and inlet decarbed - blew tons of black smoke out, cleared the carbon deposits from the top of the engine and exhaust.  - IACV removed and thoroughly cleaned with carburettor cleaner - O2 sensor replaced with new and genuine one -  Smoke test revealed no vacuum leaks - Healthy compression test of 160psi across all 6 cylinders Overall the car does run a lot smoother now, no backfires between gear shifts like it did originally... but the rough idle when warmed up is still there. It may not even be a misfire but simply a rough idle. Seems crazy to me that so many people have had this issue and seemingly no one has gotten to the bottom of it, or at least never bothered to post if they did! Hope you have more luck than I did pber13, I'm at a point now where I'm just going to try to ignore it unless it gets worse. Would love to fix it but I've genuinely run out of ideas of what it could be.
    • I got the full frenchys kit too. Really awesome kit. Easy to install my only complaint was the hardlines I think could be routed differently (I modified mine) but I realise the kit needs to suit multiple applications. This was the hard lines before I modified them. They were touching the wastegate pipe. I ended up reducing the distance between firewall and first bend. The made it so they tucked along the frame rail.
×
×
  • Create New...