Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

INASNT,

I have a GREDDY plenum so no probs for me, but yes it is possible to have a top-feed rail with the stock RB25 plenum, it's just a very tight squeeze:D

It doesn't need side-feed, but they are the easiest to fit.

See'ya:burnout:

  • Replies 58
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi adam 32, we use lots of RX7 Series V Turbo injectors in R32 GTST's. Fit straight in, right impedance. Good for 600 bhp with the right pump.

Hi tlai909, whenever I add it up, hi flowing standard injectors always works out more expensive. Even if you get the labour for almost nothing it will still cost $100 each for parts, ultrasonic cleaning and flow testing. We buy brand new Rochester injectors up to 1300 cc for not much more.

Japanese brand names are double the price because they have a "brand name" on them not because HKS, Jun, Tomei, Toda, Top Secret etc actually make them. Nippon Denso really make almost all of the "brand name" injectors and they just put their name on them. Take a look at a ND catalogue and you will find almost all the specifications that the "brand names" have at less than half the price. A 700 cc injectors costs almost the same as a 370 cc injector, the "brand names" increasing prices for larger injectors is profiteering.

Hope that helps.

Originally posted by Sydneykid

whenever I add it up, hi flowing standard injectors always works out more expensive.  Even if you get the labour for almost nothing it will still cost $100 each for parts, ultrasonic cleaning and flow testing.  We buy brand new Rochester injectors up to 1300 cc for not much more.

Heya Sydneykid

In my experience you're right about the injector high-flowing, it costs around $200 per injector to do from Croydon. This is with you supplying the injectors too. However the cheapest injectors I remember seeing recently are 550cc SARD ones for about $160 I think. Are you saying you can get even bigger injectors for closer to $100? Where from?

Where can you get a fuel rail for an R33 made to fit the top feed injectors? And how much should it cost to get them ultrasonic cleaned and flow tested? The last time I got injectors cleaned I think it cost about $170 for 8, but it was a long time ago and my memory is fuzzy.

  • 4 months later...
Originally posted by Lepperfish

So 550cc injectors will be plenty for 600bhp ?

600hp is 447kW.

At the crank that's a damn lot.

I would imagine 660-740cc would be better but then your car idles bad.

550cc will be fine for ~450hp crank situations.

btw. where the hell are you getting these prices for the cheap RX7 injectors and rails?

My next choice is the Nismo 555cc and they are pretty much $1,000 delivered.

Any contact for the cheap injectors and rail? Hook a brutha up :D

T.

What part no. is on the RX7 injector 195500-1370 (pink top square plug) or 195500-2020 (other colour purple(?) with oval type plug). I was told that the pink ones are nicknamed sperm or squirt injectors, even though they are easier to fit due to the plug they have more drama's tuning? I have microtech so no drama's in what injector I use as long as it fits. Also for a mild and tunable upgrade could you use CA18DET inj. at 370-380cc or RB26DETT inj. at 444cc? thanks

Oh yea forgot to mention this is for RB20DET. The injectors I listed (CA or RB26) in regards to there resistance shouldn't be a drama due to the microtech I would imagine. What I am really after is a straight bolt in fit injector (top feed type like my standard ones) other than RX7, that would support 350hp at the wheels. I think RB26DETT would be the way to go, does anyone agree? Thanks Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yep, there's a very minor drift left that happens a few seconds after letting go of the steering wheel, but not enough to bother me. Enjoying the car still!
    • Got you mate. Check your email!
    • I see you've never had to push start your own car... You could save some weight right now...
    • Sounds good.  I don't 100% understand what your getting at here. When you say, "I keep seeing YouTube videos where people have new paint and primer land on the old clearcoat that isn't even dulled down" do you mean this - there is a panel with factory paint, without any prep work, they paint the entire panel with primer, then colour then clear?  If that's what you mean, sure it will "stick" for a year, 2 years, maybe 3 years? Who knows. But at some stage it will flake off and when it does it's going to come off in huge chunks and look horrific.  Of course read your technical data sheet for your paint, but generally speaking, you can apply primer to a scuffed/prepped clear coat. Generally speaking, I wouldn't do this. I would scuff/prep the clear and then lay colour then clear. Adding the primer to these steps just adds cost and time. It will stick to the clear coat provided it has been appropriately scuffed/prepped first.  When you say, "but the new paint is landing on the old clearcoat" I am imagining someone not masking up the car and just letting overspray go wherever it wants. Surely this isn't what you mean?  So I'll assume the following scenario - there is a small scratch. The person manages to somehow fill the scratch and now has a perfectly flat surface. They then spray colour and clear over this small masked off section of the car. Is this what you mean? If this is the case, yes the new paint will eventually flake off in X number of years time.  The easy solution is to scuff/prep all of the paint that hasn't been masked off in the repair area then lay the paint.  So you want to prep the surface, lay primer, then lay filler, then lay primer, then colour, then clear?  Life seems so much simpler if you prep, fill, primer, colour then clear.  There are very few reasons to go to bare metal. Chasing rust is a good example of why you'd go to bare metal.  A simple dent, there is no way in hell I'm going to bare metal for that repair. I've got enough on my plate without creating extra work for myself lol. 
×
×
  • Create New...