Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I really wanted a t66 but have been offered a gt3540r 0.82 at a great price so am going to go with it.

What i want to know is how im going to identify the turbo as from what i know the compressor housing and exh is similar one most of the other similar sized garrett turbos.

Any information would be great. Have done a big search but come up with nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123906-identifying-gt3540r-082/
Share on other sites

SirRacer,

The standard GT3540 (aka GT35R or GT3540R or GT3582) uses a 61.36mm, 56 trim compressor wheel in a 0.70A/R compressor housing and a 62.32mm, 84 trim exhaust wheel, in either a 0.63, 0.82 or 1.06 A/R exhaust housing.

To identify the turbo, check the code on the Garrett ID tag on the core. If it says “706451-15” it is a GT35.

The exhaust housing A/R is cast into the side of the inlet to the exhaust housing.

Cheers.

My lists for the GT35R or GT3582R as Garrett now call them show the cartridge (CHRA) number as 706451-5 . The complete unit part numbers are 714568 -1 or -2 or -3 depending on which AR ratio turbine housing it has ie 1.06 , .82 or .63 in that order .

So if you order a GT3582R in .82AR ratio turbine housing its part number should be 714568-2 . Confirm that it has a 68mm 84 trim turbine and 82mm 56 trim compressor of the 6/12 blade GT family . The compressor cover should be a .70AR ratio TO4S type .

Cheers A .

cheers, its this part number 714568-2 and the comp cover is the .70

i just wasnt sure where to look as they arent labeled gt3540r on the garrett site anymore.

cheers

awesome turbo ! i have one on my rb30det - makes full boost before 3500 16psi

hey there, my setup will be very very similar to yours but im going to run more boost and some giggle gas for good measure

ill let you know how it goes. wont be put together for a few more months but have most of the parts now.

wind up the boost, come on you know you want to

Hey

I am running a stock bottom end (cast pistons) so 350rwhp is kinda enough for me for now.. with the 3 litre its all you need for the street. I guess i could go up to 22psi and make shitloads more but thats when i can afford it and get sick of the power.

hey there, my setup will be very very similar to yours but im going to run more boost and some giggle gas for good measure

ill let you know how it goes. wont be put together for a few more months but have most of the parts now.

wind up the boost, come on you know you want to

Hey

I am running a stock bottom end (cast pistons) so 350rwhp is kinda enough for me for now.. with the 3 litre its all you need for the street. I guess i could go up to 22psi and make shitloads more but thats when i can afford it and get sick of the power.

I note in your sig... 350rwhp on 16psi.. any more power and its a waste.

As your not after more would you consider dropping to the GT30r? Or do you think it would pose greater traction problems?

Probably not. It drives pretty good atm. Pretty happy with the way its going. Dont really have a big desire to go for more power at the moment. But that will change when im ready to go to the track.

I note in your sig... 350rwhp on 16psi.. any more power and its a waste.

As your not after more would you consider dropping to the GT30r? Or do you think it would pose greater traction problems?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card stile AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had not flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
    • Boot is going to be replaced eventually. I just wire brushed what I could and rust converted. Then painted in rust kill primer. the spoiler also got repainted and plugs replaced on the ends. The under side of the bonnet is going to be black also, currently white. But red on the top side, same colour code as the silo to begin.
×
×
  • Create New...