Jump to content
SAU Community

Identifying Gt3540r 0.82

SirRacer

By SirRacer,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

SirRacer Experienced

SirRacer

Posted
Posted

I really wanted a t66 but have been offered a gt3540r 0.82 at a great price so am going to go with it.

What i want to know is how im going to identify the turbo as from what i know the compressor housing and exh is similar one most of the other similar sized garrett turbos.

Any information would be great. Have done a big search but come up with nothing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/123906-identifying-gt3540r-082/
Share on other sites
garage-tuner Rookie

garage-tuner

Posted
Posted

SirRacer,

The standard GT3540 (aka GT35R or GT3540R or GT3582) uses a 61.36mm, 56 trim compressor wheel in a 0.70A/R compressor housing and a 62.32mm, 84 trim exhaust wheel, in either a 0.63, 0.82 or 1.06 A/R exhaust housing.

To identify the turbo, check the code on the Garrett ID tag on the core. If it says “706451-15” it is a GT35.

The exhaust housing A/R is cast into the side of the inlet to the exhaust housing.

Cheers.

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

My lists for the GT35R or GT3582R as Garrett now call them show the cartridge (CHRA) number as 706451-5 . The complete unit part numbers are 714568 -1 or -2 or -3 depending on which AR ratio turbine housing it has ie 1.06 , .82 or .63 in that order .

So if you order a GT3582R in .82AR ratio turbine housing its part number should be 714568-2 . Confirm that it has a 68mm 84 trim turbine and 82mm 56 trim compressor of the 6/12 blade GT family . The compressor cover should be a .70AR ratio TO4S type .

Cheers A .

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted
cheers, its this part number 714568-2 and the comp cover is the .70

i just wasnt sure where to look as they arent labeled gt3540r on the garrett site anymore.

cheers

awesome turbo ! i have one on my rb30det - makes full boost before 3500 16psi

SirRacer Experienced

SirRacer

Posted
  • Author
Posted

hey there, my setup will be very very similar to yours but im going to run more boost and some giggle gas for good measure

ill let you know how it goes. wont be put together for a few more months but have most of the parts now.

wind up the boost, come on you know you want to

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Hey

I am running a stock bottom end (cast pistons) so 350rwhp is kinda enough for me for now.. with the 3 litre its all you need for the street. I guess i could go up to 22psi and make shitloads more but thats when i can afford it and get sick of the power.

hey there, my setup will be very very similar to yours but im going to run more boost and some giggle gas for good measure

ill let you know how it goes. wont be put together for a few more months but have most of the parts now.

wind up the boost, come on you know you want to

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
Hey

I am running a stock bottom end (cast pistons) so 350rwhp is kinda enough for me for now.. with the 3 litre its all you need for the street. I guess i could go up to 22psi and make shitloads more but thats when i can afford it and get sick of the power.

I note in your sig... 350rwhp on 16psi.. any more power and its a waste.

As your not after more would you consider dropping to the GT30r? Or do you think it would pose greater traction problems?

Guilt-Toy Grand Master

Guilt-Toy

Posted
Posted

Probably not. It drives pretty good atm. Pretty happy with the way its going. Dont really have a big desire to go for more power at the moment. But that will change when im ready to go to the track.

I note in your sig... 350rwhp on 16psi.. any more power and its a waste.

As your not after more would you consider dropping to the GT30r? Or do you think it would pose greater traction problems?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      While it is a very nice idea to put card style AFMs into the charge pipe (post intercooler, obviously), the position of the AFM and the recirc valve relative to each other starts to become something that you really have to consider. The situation: The stock AFM is located upstream the turbo, and the recirc valve return is located between the AFM and the turbo inlet, aimed at the turbo inlet, so that it flows away from and not through the AFM. Thus, once metered air is not metered again, neither flowing forwards, or backwards, when vented out of the charge pipe. When you put the AFM between the turbo outlet and the TB, there is a volume of pressurised charge pipe upstream of the AFM and there is a volume of pressurised pipe downstream of the AFM. When the recirc valve opens and vents the charge pipe, air is going to flow from both ends of the charge pipe towards the recirc valve. If the recirc valve is in the stock location, then the section between it and the TB doesn't really matter here - you're not going to try to put the AFM in that piece of pipe. But the AFM will likely be somewhere between the intercooler and the recirc valve, So the entire charge pipe volume from that position (upstream of the AFM, back through the intercooler, to the turbo outlet) is going to flow through the AFM, get registered as combustion air, cause the ECU to fuel for it, but get dumped out of the recirc valve and you will end up with a typical BOV related rich spike. So ideally you want to put the AFM as close to the TB as possible (so, just upstream of the crossover pipe, assuming that the stock crossover is still in use, or, just before the TB if an FFP is being used) and locate the recirc valve at the turbo outlet. Recirc valve at the turbo outlet is the new normal for things like EFRs anyway. In the even of a recirc valve opening dumping all the air in the charge pipe, pretty much all of it is going to go backwards, from the TB to the recirc valve near the turbo outlet. But only a small portion of it (that between the TB and the AFM) will pass through the AFM, and it will pass through going backwards. The card style AFMs are somewhat more immune to reading flow that passes through them in reverse than older AFMs are, so you should absolutely minimise the rich pulse behaviour associated with the unavoidable outcome of having both a recirc valve and an AFM in the charge pipe.
    • joshuaho96
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Yep, in my case as soon as I started hearing weird noises I backed off the tension until it sounded normal again. Delicate balance between enough tension to avoid that cold start slip and too much damaging things.
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      nvm this comment
    • silviaz
      Rb25det Belts Change

      By silviaz · Posted

      I'm almost at a point where I feel like changing the alternator. Need to check the stuff you mentioned first though.
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      @Dose Pipe Sutututu I read your replies RE: R35 GTR MAFs, any ideal spots to put on? Obviously will need the adapter plate. Will be having a cross over intercooler fitted shortly, would putting it a bit before the TB be okay?
×
×
  • Create New...