Who Can Work Some Magic?

[DJ984]

Ok, so here's my theory:

can't afford to buy a car at the moment and start goin nuts on it etc so I have to look at cheaper solutions... but what if I went for the best of both worlds??

My overall plan (well one of - you'd be surprised how many different plans you can build when all you can do is THINK about cars) is to get an na auto ceffy, do an RB25DET Manual conversion and have some fun.

Don't know if my figures are realistic or if I've accounted for everything or not but, to get to the point, I thought that maybe I should start now and slowly do the minor things here and there until I get my other issues sorted and get the money to start goin nuts!

so..... how cheap can I get an auto, na ceffy? (or, more appropriately, how cheap can people here get me one??)

15yr rule would mean it has to be an 88 (all good by me) but, rumour has it, that you can actually get cars for free in Japan because people don't want the hassle of re-registering it etc etc. What do you think the chances are of someone finding one ova there with such a sweet price tag? (yeah, ok, I'm a tight arse but i'll make up for the funds I save now later in the project )

f*%k me I can ramble on... ok, here's point form to make it easier (+ more questions): <--- that was so not meant to come out as a funky faced dude

1) How cheap can people get an na auto cef here for?

2) what's a summary of all the costs involved from the point it's found in Japan to the point it's found going sideways with me in the drivers seat (de-registration costs, freight costs, customs, blah blah blah - i want it all) - lets see if my head is in the real world or it's own

3) what's EVERYTHING involved in an RB25DET manual conversion on an na, auto cef? (once again, want it all... point form with costs for each would be premium ) - once again, dave's head = real world / own

Thanks in advance all

(p.s. if you're sitting there reading this and you feel sorry for me and you want to donate a large sum of cash ($10K plus) to my "i want an insane cefiro" fund, pm me for my bank detail ha haa! - ok, it was worth a try )

Edited June 27, 2006 by DJ984

[funkymonkey]

put it this way... we bought an R32 for a customer for 100yen that's a $1.50 in australian money. By the time it landed it cost him $5501.50, then he had to pay for compliance etc.

It makes bugger all difference in the end whether you get a car for free, or for $1000. Spend wisely to start with, and you'll need to take less panadols down the track.

[DJ984]

put it this way... we bought an R32 for a customer for 100yen that's a $1.50 in australian money. By the time it landed it cost him $5501.50, then he had to pay for compliance etc.

It makes bugger all difference in the end whether you get a car for free, or for $1000. Spend wisely to start with, and you'll need to take less panadols down the track.

That's exactly the answer I was after! cheers man.

just realised myself actually... how stupid would i be to get an auto, na cef for free when i could get an rb20det one for around the same price. *slaps self over head* especially when i'll be doing a conversion (since an rb20det will re-coup more money than an na, auto and I can just get a manual to save on pedal sets etc).

ok, so assuming you charged a 1k service fee (?). it cost the customer 4500 in approvals, freight, customs duties, quarantine, etc etc yeah?

is there anywhere the customer could have saved money here (hypothetically of course, I don't expect you to turn around and say "oh yeah, we made him pay twice as much for this as he should..." etc )

- also, assuming by the panadol comment, there where things that needed to be sorted out with the car in aus??

Cheers.

Edited June 27, 2006 by DJ984

[funkymonkey]

you can save money by buying a 1988 manual RB20DET ceffy, or better yet, one that already has everything you want already done. We've got some for a couple of guys now... relatively cheap too, by avoiding auctions and yahoo, and instead buying from wholesale yards and dealerships in japan.

You're spot on with customer costs. Even with a dirt cheap car the taxes n fees start adding up.

If you get a RB20DET cef, RB20DET -> RB25DET conversion is so easy... plus you have better brakes and suspension from the get go, rather than upgradeing the NA ones to the turbo equivalents.

Even easier would be to wait for a nicely modified RB25DET ceffy to come up. For example:

To land an average 88 cef with minor mods would cost you about $9000

You can get one with an RB25DET or an SR20DET conversion for about $12000 to $13000 landed. Now that's money you would spend on a new engine, labour etc anyways. So if you think about it, you're saving yourself the hassle, the downtime and the screwing around.

Here's a few we've sold as examples, pay attention to the prices...

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/0346

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/0811

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/1097

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/1849

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/2449

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/2503

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/3067

complying a cef with an RB25 shouldn't be an issue as they came with RB25 (DE... but the compliancers usually don't care) as a standard option. SR20's can be a lil tricky to comply.

That said demand for RB25 and SR20 cefs are pretty high, so expect to spend a few more months looking for one compared to RB20DET ones.

[DJ984]

you can save money by buying a 1988 manual RB20DET ceffy, or better yet, one that already has everything you want already done. We've got some for a couple of guys now... relatively cheap too, by avoiding auctions and yahoo, and instead buying from wholesale yards and dealerships in japan.

You're spot on with customer costs. Even with a dirt cheap car the taxes n fees start adding up.

If you get a RB20DET cef, RB20DET -> RB25DET conversion is so easy... plus you have better brakes and suspension from the get go, rather than upgradeing the NA ones to the turbo equivalents.

Even easier would be to wait for a nicely modified RB25DET ceffy to come up. For example:

To land an average 88 cef with minor mods would cost you about $9000

You can get one with an RB25DET or an SR20DET conversion for about $12000 to $13000 landed. Now that's money you would spend on a new engine, labour etc anyways. So if you think about it, you're saving yourself the hassle, the downtime and the screwing around.

buying a cef with an RB25 shouldn't be an issue as they came with RB25 (DE... but the compliancers usually don't care) as a standard option. SR20's can be a lil tricky to comply.

Now we're talking! Thanks man, I just don't frequent the site enough to see these ones (how often they come up / how good the pricing is etc)... they slip through the cracks between my visits lol!

moral to the story (as you've pointed out) sit tight till i get this otha sh*t sorted, get one already converted, use the extra money on all the goodies I can buy lol!

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/1097

Drift Limo: I EVNY YOU!!!

next question... how's the SR20's for power, responsiveness and feel? I remember my 32 GTS-t was laaaaaaggy and lacked bottom end power which is why i want an rb25 cef (driven a 33 gts-t, very impressed) but, if i don't go a cef, my next plan is an ichi go S13 with an sr20... so how do the engines rate?

[D-limo]

Funky does 0km's mean that real kms is unknown? If you by chance have any other info on my car would be interested in it. That link cleared up a couple of things for me.

DJ984 I recently sold a RB20det auto Laurel in reasonable condish for a touch over 4k.. And recently saw a good condition N/A auto Ceffy for 3k.. That said it will be tough to find a decent priced Ceffy in your vicinity. I would expect to pay a little more than those prices funky quoted due to the rule change and subsequent rise in popularity.

If it was me though I would prefer to import an already modded car.. It's usually cheaper in the long run. Good Luck!

[DJ984]

DJ984 I recently sold a RB20det auto Laurel in reasonable condish for a touch over 4k.. And recently saw a good condition N/A auto Ceffy for 3k.. That said it will be tough to find a decent priced Ceffy in your vicinity. I would expect to pay a little more than those prices funky quoted due to the rule change and subsequent rise in popularity.

If it was me though I would prefer to import an already modded car.. It's usually cheaper in the long run. Good Luck!

yeah, I think in the long run I'll be better off hanging in and getting one that's already done. Should save me time and money (and effort). Just have to wait and see I guess.

[D-limo]

http://www.j-spec.com.au/list/1097

Drift Limo: I EVNY YOU!!!

LOL dude after stuffing around with many average cars for too long and missing out on opportunaty's, I finally had some good luck. As with alot of things in life patience is the key

[funkymonkey]

ummm here's the link to the pics from the inspection that we did:

http://www.j-spec.com.au/clients/1097

can't seem to find the report... I'll ask one of the other guys in the office if we've still got a copy.

Oh and the pic I've attached is what I think you're car looked like before the blue makeover.

[D-limo]

Thanks man awesome work!

[Johnny Cash]

Why not just buy my 32 ?

[DJ984]

Why not just buy my 32 ?

ha ha! nice try... been there, done that.

I remember my 32 GTS-t was laaaaaaggy and lacked bottom end power which is why i want an rb25 cef

I've already been the proud owner of 2 beautiful 32's man (GTS-t and GTR), I'm after something different

[someonestolecc]

next question... how's the SR20's for power, responsiveness and feel? I remember my 32 GTS-t was laaaaaaggy and lacked bottom end power which is why i want an rb25 cef (driven a 33 gts-t, very impressed) but, if i don't go a cef, my next plan is an ichi go S13 with an sr20... so how do the engines rate?

For anything under 230rwkw I'd get an SR.

Anything over RB25/30.

[DJ984]

For anything under 230rwkw I'd get an SR.

Anything over RB25/30.

Hey CC,

can you elaborate a little for me man? as i said, I owned a 32 GTS-t and I've driven a 33... the 32 was laggy and lacking power but the 33 (in pretty much stock trim) seemed ideal. Ultimately the GTR was fkn beautiful!! but not sure I want to go down the RB26 path.

how'd the SR feel in your ceffy? was it laggy etc? can't remember what turbs you had so that would have made a big difference as well yeah?

basically, I like to be able to drop my foot at low revs and get the sucker spinning up / sliding... the 33 was excellent at this, the 32 (from what I remember) needed much higher revs for the same result (and once again, the GTR - FKN BEAUTIFUL! lol!)

Cheers,

Dave.

[S13Deviat]

Dave SR20 are perfect as they are very torquey engines!! If u aint hunting big power, a SR20 with the right bolt ons and you'll be spinning those wheels in no time.....

[DJ984]

Dave SR20 are perfect as they are very torquey engines!! If u aint hunting big power, a SR20 with the right bolt ons and you'll be spinning those wheels in no time.....

Thanks Ando,

personal opinion... which would you go?

*sr20det with FMIC, something along the likes of a 30/40 (may be fairly laggy, maye something smaller), bit of boost and a tune

OR

*rb25det with fmic, boost, front facing plenum and a tune.

i think in the end, if it came to it, i'd go an RB25 in a cef but as i said before, the other thing I'm contemplating is an ichi go S13 so, be good to know if that's even worth thinking of at all.

[dangerous_daveo]

But yeah, save up more dude. Buy one thats got the gear done. Unless you know exactly what your going to do anyway. Then buy a preloved auto thats already here and go for gold.

Say you know you want SK suspension, then getting a car with coilovers already on its a waste.

You want 4 stud because thats the wheels you want etc.

Get my drift, pardon the pun.

And well if its going to be a year or two to save up... Mine should be up for sale in about 2 years. By then its going to be perfect. Id want a V35 by then I think.

[S13Deviat]

Thanks Ando,

personal opinion... which would you go?

*sr20det with FMIC, something along the likes of a 30/40 (may be fairly laggy, maye something smaller), bit of boost and a tune

OR

*rb25det with fmic, boost, front facing plenum and a tune.

i think in the end, if it came to it, i'd go an RB25 in a cef but as i said before, the other thing I'm contemplating is an ichi go S13 so, be good to know if that's even worth thinking of at all.

Personal opinion - If i had the time over, i would get one that already has the engine in it that i want. Dont pay for a stockish one and pay lots of money to upgrade it, as most said, be patient and wait for a Ceffie comes up that has already got a RB25 in it.

As for engine setup. Simple 3 choices -

Drift - SR20

Daily with decent power - RB25

Track - RB25

my 2c

[D-limo]

1JZ... You know you want to

[funkymonkey]

RB engines make the frontend of the ceffy very nose heavy... plonk an SR in there and you'll have an awesome balance. SR's have plenty of aftermarket support so bolt ons are plenty. They're pretty robust engines too, just that they struggle to make huge power without oodles of cash put into them, compared to an RB25.

So if you're after moderate power and good balance go the SR, if you're building a dyno beast then go the RB25. Both deliver power fairly well from low RPM to high RPM.