Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

John Hill of JHH Engineering

Another one for JHH.

Just you need to listen to what he says. Dont go in half cocked that you want this and this. Say what you want to get out of the car, answer his questions, and you should have a VERY nice engine.

  • 2 years later...

thought id bring up an old topic. can someone suggest a engine builder/balancer that will do exactly what u ask. unlike the moron i used that did half the job his way and then refused to finish it (and charged double the verbal quote).

the same 2 recommendations as were previously on here

Chilton Engineering or JHH if your after engineering (boring/honing/balancing).

If you need a builder/mechanical god, check out Dan @ Elite Racing Developments (http://www.erd.com.au)

there is one that has been recommended that i would not use, will not mention but has been lissted a few times.

i had my machining done there, and i had to get another shop to do a quick job on my crank and they found the crank had 8thou

run out, the crank was full of metal and had not been cleaned, my block had marks in the bores from the hone being dragged out

and 2 welsh plugs missing from the oil gallerys. the big ends on my rods were not true. all up i had to sepnd another $1200 to fix everything

I do highly recommend John Wilson Engineering at southport. hell my rb20 revs to 9k and makes just over 400rwhp. cant complain

$4K for pull down, machining, full head service including guides, blueprinting and assembly. Any cheaper and id be questioning the quality.

is this for a standard rebuild, or using stronger internals?

i realise "how much for a rebuild" is like asking how long is a piece of string, but just curious roughly what parts are used

is this for a standard rebuild, or using stronger internals?

i realise "how much for a rebuild" is like asking how long is a piece of string, but just curious roughly what parts are used

no parts...parts are extra on top of this

the above price includes the assembly to be fully balanced.

Edited by DiRTgarage
Another one for JHH.

Just you need to listen to what he says. Dont go in half cocked that you want this and this. Say what you want to get out of the car, answer his questions, and you should have a VERY nice engine.

ANOTHER ONE FOR JOHN HILL AT JHH. He built my 25/30 and did all the headwork on my 26/30.

Now if only I could find the number lol.....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If the tyres were fitted when new, I wouldn't expect much over 5 years of use. Especially if the car lives outside full time.  If the tyres had been stored under ideal conditions and are being purchased new, I'd fit a set of already 5 year old tyres if I only expected to get 1 to 2 years of use out of them.  I've purchased many a set of new (but quite old) tyres from St George Tyres when I just needed some decent rear tyres to drift on.  Here is a pretty crazy example, can't say I've ever bought 11 year old tyres from them before though lol.  https://www.stgeorgetyres.com.au/momo-tyres-245-45-17-outrun-m3-official-product-by-momo-italy.html
    • Also, a tip for young players  Check the dates on new tyres before they fit them, I always ask this question at the tyre shop, as they have tried to put "new" tyres on one of my cars a few years ago, but the build date was about 3 years old
    • Yeah - 4 or 5 years is the limit for decent tyres. Pedestrian grade tyres with 400 TW ratings start out hard and don't start to suffer until they are somewhat older again. But the stickier decent stuff? Nup. My current ADO9s are < 2 yrs old, 17000km in, only have about the minimum 2mm of tread depth left, and they are.....not what they used to be. They are clearly much harder now than when new. Whether that is heat cycles (unlikely, for a road tyre), different compound between top and bottom of tread, or actually aging out (in less than 2 years!!!) is not really able to be discerned. But I'd credit actual aging as being at least part of the cause. I've got an old pair of ~50% worn AD08Rs in the shed that I really need to get rid of. They started feeling waaaay too hard to put back on the car after a couple of years sitting there.
    • Personally I wouldn't put tyres over 4 or 5 years old on any of my own cars. Once they go hard the grip characteristics completely change. As per most things it only matters in an accident and that's when you most want them to do their job!
    • I'm replacing the front tyres on the E39 tomorrow because one of them has a few gouges out of it. There is so much tread still on them but they're also 9 years old and the rubber is super hard.  This falls within the guidelines of 10 years old that I've read which surprises me given their condition.  I'm curious about whether you guys care about tyre age or just judge the tyre based on condition? How old would you consider too old?
×
×
  • Create New...