Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

MOD EDIT:

Decided to create a consolidated thread for everyone to voice their opinions and ideas here. From now on any one posting about opinions on the following items will have their threads merged into this one:

- what headunit to buy

- what speakers to get

- system setups

etc

Any other questions (eg problems, technical advice) will remain as they are. Topics asking for installers will generally be closed as they are a frequent topic.

Cheers,

Vijay

I'm looking to replace my rear speakers, as my current (and still new) JBL 3-ways are not handling the bass the way I want them to.

They run like they were designed for sealed/ported/bandpass enclosure, but my parcel-shelf is pretty much "free air".

I was going to use JayCar's 6.5" Kevlar woofers in the back, and then muck around with low pass and full range settings on my amp, but currently I have to run the JBL's on highpass, as the coil seems to fling all over the place and lose control. The same amp drives my clarion splits up front, and they pump like crazy.. even if I pull the pod out of the door, they don't lose their travel. That would suggest that they handle free air applications better, so I was almost considering buying another set, using the supplied crossover, but not running the tweeter... just mid and bass for rear fill.

So, three questions I guess:

What would you recommend for very bassy open air 6.5" speakers in the rear?

Is it worth trying JayCar's 6.5" kevlar woofers?

Would you use a split system, but only the woofer part so that the woofers are matched front and back?

Cheers guys!

Edited by raz0r$harP
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just as a side note Fusion do not make 6.5 inch 2 ways anymore. The set you saw would have been 2004 stock being flogged off through wow in qld or gcr in vic. They have now gone to a 6" design with different baskets and specs.

Trust me I know.

As for which 6" will deliver the most bass, it is a very open ended question, there are dedicated 6 and 6.5 mid woofer drivers that are desinged for mid bass and lower frequencies, these generally will not perform well at high frequencies as the have a build construction and dynamic that resembles a miniture sub. They are quite pricey, but if you are like me and money is not really a problem, i would suggest importing from the USA a set of USD 6.5 mid bass speakers. For memeory they are only $800 us each, but they will work a treat, oh, and remember you will need a few things to make them work properly. Such as

- custom mdf resin sealed mounts

- big amp that produces clean power

- head unit that produces clean signal

- Apexi charging stabiliser to ensure vehicle is charging at correct voltage

- 1 farad cap

- 8 Guage speaker wire ( just use power wire)

So, If that's a little out of the question, then go for something that has a high power handling capacity and is at least a USA based company. The US produce better quality speakers and generally they will produce more volume.

Suggested brands to stay away from ( mostly jap brands)

sony, kenwood, clarion, alpine, pioneer, cadence, boss, jaycar ( yuk) and most other cheap CRAP

Suggested brands to look at

Soundstream, rockford fosgate, orion, jl audio, mtx, kicker

( i know, i know i have left a heap out of both catagory's, but you get the picture right)

My personsal pick would be the Soundstream Tarantula sst6.5

Check it out at

http://www.soundstream.com/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2290198
Share on other sites

My personal preference is CDT audio speakers. Dont see too many people using them though, but i couldnt be happier with the sound, awesome midbass/bass. The installer i use, has put the CDTs in many utes with bazooka tubes and then taken out the tubes as bass output is better from the spilts. I have the classics up front, but will soon be moving those out back and putting a set of HDs in the front.

The classics cost me $450-$500, bought a whole bunch of gear at the same time.

http://cdtaudio.com/ have a look

hope that helps

Cheers

Evil

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2290312
Share on other sites

ooh.... I might have to clarify what I call "reasonable money" =-]

And i'd rather stick with 6.5" (as I stated) rather than go down in cone size to 6".

Let's say... out of what I can readily buy from strathfield, jaycar, jb hifi etc, for a maximum of $200

eg: JayCar's 6.5" Kevlar woofers are $80 each. My clarion splits were RRP $200. Either of those i'm happy to use, but if there's something else out there, i'd like to know.

Also, i'm not worried about high end frequencies in the rear, I want to run the rear drivers as a woofer/sub only.

Thanks for the input thus far!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2291627
Share on other sites

Well my hertz coxials 6.5 inch will be installed next wednesday. But i bought them for rearfills. Since i already have Hertz spilts in the front and they do punch out a fair bit of bass (trust me on that one)

So these coxials are under 200. So i will let you know how the bass part goes. Im not concerned about rear speaker bass.

Anyways, if you want bass, why not just buy 6*9s for the rear? make some pods for it.. Im sure that way you will get some 'bass'.

Or go into your nearest car audio store and ask them for some help.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2295567
Share on other sites

didnt know that frx026 ...

its unlike fusion to make anything smaller ohhh well ...

i just thought they would suit perfect as they were only like $170 a set, and were bassy as ...

=(

maybe there is a set a old stock lying around somewhere ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2295910
Share on other sites

got a pair of 6.5" kevlar's in the back of my ceffy... they're pretty good for their size and a great plug in OEM replacement.

cef_rear_spkr_15.jpg

cef_rear_spkr_16.jpg

DIY guide here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=98021

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2296325
Share on other sites

Well my hertz coxials 6.5 inch will be installed next wednesday. But i bought them for rearfills. Since i already have Hertz spilts in the front and they do punch out a fair bit of bass (trust me on that one)

So these coxials are under 200. So i will let you know how the bass part goes. Im not concerned about rear speaker bass.

Anyways, if you want bass, why not just buy 6*9s for the rear? make some pods for it.. Im sure that way you will get some 'bass'.

Or go into your nearest car audio store and ask them for some help.

Yep thanks! Please do let me know how they handle lower frequencies at volume.

I really want to stick with 6.5"... I don't want to change my parcel shelf or run any risers or pods... I don't want to see my speakers when i'm checking my rearview mirror. (already got a wing for an obstacle as it is!)

I *was* tossing up the idea of podding the JBL's on the inside of the boot, but there is not much clearance before the battery, and the enclosure would be too small to get the driver to reach its supposed resonance frequency. =-/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2297558
Share on other sites

And thanks, Funky. I have made my own parcel shelf and fitted these JBL's myself... rear seat and everything out... i'm not concerned about fitting new speakers, just how other speakers may sound.

I see that your JayCar kevlars are the coaxial model... how's the bass frequency and volume? Do they lose themselves or stay pretty rigid? Do they easily hit their maximum throw and distort?

Also, i'd like to take a poll... who mounts directly to the metal, like the stock Cefiro seems to, and who mounts to the parcel shelf masonite/MDF?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2297604
Share on other sites

no worries randy will deff let you know. I just hope it does arrive on wednesday.

But my hertz spilts in the fronts do put out fair bit of bass and low frequency to. Atm they arent amped or sound deadend and they still punch out bass.

Will let you know how i go.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2299651
Share on other sites

Good to hear! The doors act like a great enclosure as long as they don't rattle...

My Clarion splits are excellent for me in the front. If I had the same handling and bass in the rear, i'd be a happy camper. Unfortunately that model doesn't seem to be made anymore (identifying via pics, i'm not sure of the model number I actually have) SRsomething, with a purple/blue cone. I'd be VERY confident to buy another set of those and use them in the rear if I could source some.

Cheers all!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2299849
Share on other sites

I think my materuns those speakers, or similar, maybe older version RF, but very similar higher end RF.

He runs then in a Carolla with custom pods and the tweets mounted low.

The sond very detailed and clear with nice punchy midbass. Depending how much you pay, I'd recomend them. You may have bought themalready, but I thought I'd let ya know my thoughts on them.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2301435
Share on other sites

As the topic title suggests, I was wondering what headunits people can recommend with a maximum of $500. I have everything else in my car jsut that my current head unit is creating a buzzing noise when the car is running, had a proffesional diagnose this, it came with car and is that cheap pioneer that plays mp3/wma with bright blue screen, think they were around $200.

I was thinking of the pioneer DEH-P5850 which jb can do for $400.. what you guys reckon??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2304980
Share on other sites

ive had a few different pioneers in my cars...only had 2 cars, but had the HU stolen out of 1 of them....You can get yourself a decent HU for $500 :thumbsup:

i'll say pioneer, but others will have their own opinions....find a few you like the look of, then weigh up the different features they have, and work out what you're after :/

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124035-what-to-buy/#findComment-2306009
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...