Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thankyou very much for the explanation, much appreciated and very logical!

I will get a price for the DBA 5928-1 tomorrow and see where it sits.

Cheers,

Caz.. :(

Hi Caz,

I have an 180SX running R32 GTS-T 4 pot calipers 5 stud conversion and the standard 280mm rotor. I would like to updrade to the 324mm rotor of the GTR with the DBA500 slotted rotor.

For those that may be interested, I spoke to DBA disrtibutor here in QLD yesterday and the 5000 with alloy hats doesn't come in 280mm rotor- starts at funnily enough with the GTR 324mm rotor....so

I'd like to purchase the caliper adapter kit so i can run the 324mm GTR sized rotors

Please PM me your details so i can direct deposit.

regards

Simon

  • Replies 87
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

PM sent Simon :(

Hi Caz,

I have an 180SX running R32 GTS-T 4 pot calipers 5 stud conversion and the standard 280mm rotor. I would like to updrade to the 324mm rotor of the GTR with the DBA500 slotted rotor.

For those that may be interested, I spoke to DBA disrtibutor here in QLD yesterday and the 5000 with alloy hats doesn't come in 280mm rotor- starts at funnily enough with the GTR 324mm rotor....so

I'd like to purchase the caliper adapter kit so i can run the 324mm GTR sized rotors

Please PM me your details so i can direct deposit.

regards

Simon

wow, these sound like a great idea! i wish i'd known about this approx a month ago as i just bought new standard size DBA4000 rotors :)

just a quick question though... i see you've been talking about modifying the pads so that it retains optimal face contact with the rotor - what exactly does this involve? i'm not quite understanding how you can use the same size pad as a 280mm rotor and get more face contact? or am i missing something here?

Hi AzzurrA,

Nothing wrong with stock size DBA4000, they will do you well Im sure. That is what I was running before and they performed very well :)

When using any caliper adaptor to allow the fitting of a larger than stock rotor with stock calipers the position the brake pad sits on the rotor is altered.

Moving the caliper further out on the rotor leaves a small area of brake pad that sits outside the edge of the rotor.

This has always been an accepted part of this type of upgrade as the benefits of all that extra disc space more than made up for the small loss of pad-rotor contact.

By modifying the brake pad its position against the rotor is returned to optimal and you once again have full pad footprint on the rotor with no pad overhang.

In my opinion the modded pads optimise the upgrade.

By far the majority run with unmodded pads, but Im wondering if that is because they don't actually know they are available.??

I hope that explains it OK.

Caz.. :)

wow, these sound like a great idea! i wish i'd known about this approx a month ago as i just bought new standard size DBA4000 rotors :)

just a quick question though... i see you've been talking about modifying the pads so that it retains optimal face contact with the rotor - what exactly does this involve? i'm not quite understanding how you can use the same size pad as a 280mm rotor and get more face contact? or am i missing something here?

I dont do them myself, its professional job and yes they are secretive with exact details of what they do and I have been respectful of that. I was just appreciative of their skill and product and their willingness to modify any pads I supply them so I can offer them with my upgrades.

Caz.. :D

okay, i understand that much, but how actually do you modify the pad? any pics etc?

or is it a 'industry secret'? :P

you can't add material at the bottom of the pad - all 'they' are doing is taking the top edge off the pad.

you are not mataining the 'full face' of the pad anymore.

that is unless you are putting a new friction material onto an old backing plate...

yes we specially modify ferrodo pads to fit into GTV6 calipers on the race car too. it's very secret but I will tell you guys anyway. It involves putting the pad on the ground, holding it under your foot and then cutting the bottom corners off with the angle grinder. I imagine in order to prevent pad overhang you could either cut the top of the pad, or elongate the mounting holes and trim some of the backing off the bottom so the pad sits lower in the caliper.

I have the 296x32mm disc on my GTR (gtr is a 1994 and dba says i should have the larger but thinner discs what the?) but anyway is there any simple bracket upgrade that will allow me to use a larger disc? The 324mm ones from the newer GTR are 30 mm rather then 32mm this would pose a problem? I would be interested in going to the 343x32 (hsv rotor just looking at the dba catalogue?) but will these fit under a 17" bbs rim?

Thanks for any help.

Edited by GTR1993

Hey Beer Baron and Ronin, both of you are wrong.

How about you dont make guess's and claim them as fact. Its misleading to others reading this post.

Beer Baron you may well take an angle grinder to the corners of your track pads, but dont presume my supplier does the same. They don't. Elongating mounting holes would also be a very stupid thing to do. As would cutting off the friction material you have paid good $$ for.

Ronin, your speil below is also a guess and implies the custom pads I use are a very shoddy, substandard product.

Saying the friction material overhang is cut off the backing plate thus reducing footprint is WRONG. And no, you dont put new friction material onto an old backing plate, 100% correct on that one.

These are all 'backyard' type fixes, the custom pads I supply are professionally done.

"you can't add material at the bottom of the pad - all 'they' are doing is taking the top edge off the pad.

you are not mataining the 'full face' of the pad anymore.

that is unless you are putting a new friction material onto an old backing plate..."

Ronin,

There is nothing new about custom brake pads, they are used in all sorts of big brake setups.

99% of people doing a 280mm to 324mm or a 296mm to 324mm rotor upgrade using stock calipers don't even use custom pads, I chose to fit them and thought I would let others know they were available.

Cheers,

Caz.. ;)

LOL..fight, fight, fight. :)

The funny thing i have noticed is that it depends on the pad you run and how the pad comopund is positioned on the backing plate. I have had a set of Comp 9s that put about 1mm of the pad over the edge of the rotor.

Then again i have have plenty of RB74s and another set of Comp 9s that sit flush with no overhang at all.

Because of the slots on my DBA rotors they do tend to encourage a bit of pad buildup at the edge, but you wipe your finger over it and it crumbles off as it is only pad buildup. That and the silly slots i have cause a bit of localised wear at the outer edge of the slot, but thats life.

As for "modifying" pads???? You say you modify pads, then dont tell the ppl what the mods are and to be respectful? Fair enough, but its their money and their car/safety so i would like to know what the mod is myself before doing it...you have to think about both points of view :)

If you are modifying pads, well when i had that one set of pads that seemed to overhang, i sussed out a little steel insert that went from the wear face of the pad to the outer edge of the caliper. Basically a sleeved config that the caliper pin went in. Imagine , bugger it see quick sketch...

The get out the Dremel and elongate the holes for the insert to be a friction fit into...and bingo, the pad will sit a bit lower in the caliper, but not so low that the piston location at the back of the pad is compromised :D

You can do that, and i also considered that the backing plates are just steel so can be welded up and re-drilled and painted so noone is the wsier...but i didnt like that idea as i dont really know the process which bonds the pad to the backing plate so was a little worried about the heat and its effect on the pad material :D

Or you can get a bunch of custom backing plates cut and your own pad comound nonded to them...but thats agro id rather do without and you did say modified...not custom

At the end of the day if the caliper is toleranced/clearanced correctly to the rotor then most pads should not have an overhang problem :D

The grinding edge of the pad isnt that big a deal. hell everyone does it. Some cut /grind slots in teh middle of the pad. Some taper down the face of the pad so that the pad area is reduced a little to get more concentrated load on the pad face. Sure smaller pad area increases pad face temp, but also increases bite as same force over smaller area etc etc. You just have to talk to the guys in one make classes to realise that their are pros for every con...you just need to knwo what you want to do ;)

post-462-1153021982.jpg

Here are the Comp 9s that overhung a little. Other pads before and after have been ok.

462FR_Caliper_Pad_Overhang.JPG

My bets advice, go and check your rear pads and rotor alignment, then go and check an R33 GTR Brembo and how it positions the pad to the rotor ... you will soon relax and go grab a beer and start dribbling sh1t about howe you can now outbreak a F1 car on road tyres becauseyou have big kahuna brakes ;)

And here you can see the localised pad wear at the edge of the rotor due to the silly DBA slot design, but oh well.

462FR_Caliper_Mounted.JPG

I'll bite.

So it's a custom shaped pad, built from new to fit the setup. In that case, fine and perfect. What compound is it? Can we get Ferodo compounds? how about RB74s?

BUT, you have all through the thread implied that it is a MODIFIED standard shaped pad.

haha it's ok caz I wasn't necissarily having a dig at you. just posting my opinion. I never once said it was what you did. I said it's what I do. and it is a fact as troy suggested. we have to do this to get ferrodo dsc2500 pads to fit into a GTV6 rear caliper they need the corners cut off the backing plate/pad. they even mark them on the pad :D we've also done the ol' slot down the middle mod too no problem their either. But I also thought you were talking about modifying production pads not having customs backing plates made up for a custom friction material. and to be fair you did say they modify whatever pads you send them. custom made pads however probably wouldn't suit me as I like having a wide choice of off the shelf compounds.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How's everyone going? Just a shout-out introducing myself. I'm James, I live on the north side of Brisbane. I bought an R33 that had been left to rot in someone's front yard for 14 years. Apparently, it has immobiliser/fuel issues. Long story short, it's suffering from a seized engine, plus whatever else turns up once it runs. The car is pretty good considering it sat for so long. It pretty much died after being imported. It has a bunch of Jap parts and a full Top Secret body kit. It's painted Fiat Turchese Festival, or aqua blue if you're not French. Another project to throw money at!
    • So the clockspring is responsible for the indicators cancelling on their own? I thought that was the function of that white thing in the center (any idea what it's called?)
    • Can you log IAT? Whilst WTA coolers have their place, doing any sort of sustained run is not one of them There are fixes that slow down the heat soak, like ice boxes, which don't last that long, and interchillers, which are fairly expensive, up grades to the WTA cooling radiator, which may require a bigger pump, and upgrades to the reservoir size,  and upgrades to the cooling fans, but, it all still heat soaks, and takes ages to come down in hot weather  For a turbo, that isn't locked into WTA like my PD blower is, can you not possibly swap to a nice air to air intercooler????, it would be better for sustained runs then, and have alot less things that could go wrong in my opinion 
    • So, the other thing I've sorted is a baseline dyno run up at Unigroup's new location. The auto trans was a little unco-operative by both shifting down when the throttle was floored on the dyno (so Mark had to ramp it up more slowly than in a manual) and also by shifting up at 6,000 even in sports mode instead of the indicated redline of 7,000 Still, on a hot day it made 240rwkw at 16psi which seems about right for 300kw (400hp) through an auto at the wheels.  The shape of the curve is not quite right because it was not full throttle to about 4,500 to stop it kicking down, but until I can get a tune on the auto trans control this was the best we could do.....full boost will be well below 5,000 once that is sorted, I'll get some data logs when I can to confirm For comparison, the R32 made 255 at 12psi (at 4,500) on the same dyno with tune, n1 turbos, cam gears, big exhaust but otherwise all standard so the v37 is likely a little better out of the box. One thing that is very clear is that the standard water to air intercoolers are not up to sustained use at full throttle in warm ambient temps. After about 5 runs (so only a few minutes full throttle), it was pulling boost and timing and dropping 10-15% power. Unfortunately I didn't get that printout and the Unigroup guys are away at the moment, will try and get hold of it on their return. So, looks like a healthy engine to start modifying and the only real area of concern is the w2a heat exchangers which the aftermarket has plenty of solutions for    
    • I maintain it actually looked really nice in person. So much so that I thought "No, this is illegal" but there it was, clear as day. I think we can easily call the wing and wheels/height to be transformative. Not saying it's better than the GR Whatever, or the 86, or the WRX STI or anything of that sort (the internet says it all bolts up so you can buy best of all worlds?) but it's still at least a thing and not nearly AS bad as people say.
×
×
  • Create New...