Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

searched these forums and the NZ ones, Problem is my GTS25T S1 runs fine on standard ECUeverything works in the car. Bought a Brand new PFC and took of the batt cable ,plugged in PFC -reconnectede batt turned on ignition, all I got was what I first thought was the fuel pump pulsing in the boot and the eng check light flashing like mad . the car would turn over but not start. the commander lights up and goes to moniter,settings,etc screen. but nothing is working. so I got on here and asked a few guys. got out the mu8ltimeter and checked every pin out voltage against the manual i downloaded ,all fine next stage hunting through all the auton stuff(yes mine was origanally auto).

spent the next day taking then dash apart and unwiring the alarm (freindly suggestion from member) no luck. finaly online I found a british gtr site where someone said there was a fuse problem on their gtr.I DO NOT BELIEVE IT!!!. in car fusebox ,left bank of two six up from bottom is an engine control fuse, its ten amps which i am thinking is fine untill you add the extra a PFC needs to save data etc. the standard ECU dosnt seem to mind at all if this fuse is blown but the PFC no way hosea. anyway just before I was going to send it back to Japan a fifteen amp fuse( why are they so hard to see in a skyline)and its fixed!! yayyy!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124144-problem-with-pfc/
Share on other sites

yes thats right but thats when the engine is running .it didnt even get that far.

and it wasnt so much flashing as flickering in time with the buzz from the boot which turned out to be a blue relay next to the battery ( i think this is the eccs one?) once the fuse was replaced its fine and the check light only comes on a few flashes when I cane it hard (either injector max or a few knocks) its off to get tuned on the dyno now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They are what I will be installing. 640s for me.
    • Hmm... From my experience you get about 0.25° camber change per mm of RUCA length change. So, to correct from -2.5 up to less than -1° (or, more than -1° if you look at the world as a mathematician does) then you'd be making 6-8mm of length change on the RUCA. From a stock length of 308mm, that's 2-2.5% difference in RUCA length. My RUCAs are currently very close to stock length - certainly only 2-3mm different from stock. I had to adjust my tension arms by 6mm to minimise the bump steer. That's 6mm out of 210, which is 2.8%. That's a 2.8% change on those, compared to a <1% change on the RUCAs. So the stock geometry already has worse bump steer than is possible - you can improve it even if you don't change the RUCA length. If you lengthen the RUCAs at all, then you will definitely be adding bump steer. Again, with my car, I recently had an unpleasant amount of bump steer, stemming from a number of things that happened one after another without me having an opportunity to correct for them. I only had to change the tension arm lengths by 1mm to minimise the resulting bump steer. (Granted, I also had to dial out a lot of extra toe-in in the rear, and excessive rear toe-in will make bump steer behaviour worse). Relatively tiny little adjustments having been made - the car is now completely different. Was horrifying how much it wanted to steer from the rear on any significant single wheel bump/dip. And it was even bad on expansion joints on long sweepers on freeway entry/exits, which are notionally hitting both rear wheels at the same time. My point is, the crappy Nissan multilink is quite sensitive to these things (unlike the very nice Toyota suspension!). And I think 99.75% of Skyline owners are blissfully ignorant of what they are driving around on. Sadly, it is a non-trivial exercise to set up to measure and correct bump steer. I am happy to show my rig, which involves nasty chunks of wood bolted to the hub, mirrors, lasers, graph paper targets and other horrors. Just in case anyone wants to see how it is done. I'll just have to set it up to take the photos.
    • What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice?  Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?
    • In true Gregging style...  
×
×
  • Create New...