Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well after spending alot of money and time on suspension... taking the car for a drive last night and notice that its just not going the way she should up in the rev range....

Symptoms

not pulling hard in higher revs

backfiring more

lumpy idle/searching for idle sometimes

can hear miss at idle

Now im pretty sure its one of my coil packs... i know i should search but im lazy....

how can i tell which coil pack it is?

will r33 coilpacks fit in?

anyone got any 2nd hand RB20 coilpacks?

Will she die at a random time? eg crossing harbour bridge at peak hour?

Thanks all, just want to get this sorted asap as i love higher revs if you know what i mean....

Ed

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124285-farken-coil-packs/
Share on other sites

well after spending alot of money and time on suspension... taking the car for a drive last night and notice that its just not going the way she should up in the rev range....

Symptoms

not pulling hard in higher revs

backfiring more

lumpy idle/searching for idle sometimes

can hear miss at idle

Now im pretty sure its one of my coil packs... i know i should search but im lazy....

how can i tell which coil pack it is?

will r33 coilpacks fit in?

anyone got any 2nd hand RB20 coilpacks?

Will she die at a random time? eg crossing harbour bridge at peak hour?

Thanks all, just want to get this sorted asap as i love higher revs if you know what i mean....

Ed

When did you last change the spark plugs?

What plugs are you using?

What gap are they set to?

:D cheers ;)

PS, turbo cars are killer on plugs, it most likely isn't the coils

When did you last change the spark plugs?

What plugs are you using?

What gap are they set to?

:D cheers ;)

PS, turbo cars are killer on plugs, it most likely isn't the coils

plugs got done maybe 30,000km ago

they are igk platinum

set to stock gap

should have another 40,000km in them EASY.....

shes always had a slight miss at idle even with older plugs.... so im thinking one of the coils has been on its way out for a long time now...

plugs got done maybe 30,000km ago

they are igk platinum

set to stock gap

should have another 40,000km in them EASY.....

shes always had a slight miss at idle even with older plugs.... so im thinking one of the coils has been on its way out for a long time now...

Stock plug gap is 1.1 mm which is too large.

Try 0.8 mm for boost up to 1 bar and 0.65 mm for boost over 1 bar

:D cheers ;)

alrighty, where is the best place to get them regapped?

due to wat ive mentioned im really thinking its one of the coil packs....

im only running 11psi but hits 13 on cold nights

1.1 mm (probably 1.2 by now due to wear of the electrodes) is a 38% larger gap than 0.8 mm.

1.1 mm is a good gap for 6 psi, you have almosty doubled that (plus a bit on cold nights).

Check out the DIY section for R&R and gapping spark plugs, it's not that hard.

:D cheers ;)

alrighty ill give it a go over the weekend...

if it is one of my coil packs ive been told that taking out one at a time at idle and if the idle dosent change (keeps misfiring) then thats the faulty one...

should i test that too?

I don't think I've heard an R32 that doesn't have the odd ever so slight pop on idle. I'm not sure you could really call it a miss as a miss is very pronounced.

From what I've been able to fiddle with the only way to completely remove it is to richen up the idle afr to a shade over 14.

I only noticed my occasional pop on idle once I had the exhaust fitted.

Ed,

If it's not happening all the time there's a pretty good chance it's the coil packs. When you get the coils out, have a good look at the clearish plastic window on the side and see if there's any burn marks, bubbles in the plastic, cracks etc, etc. Also, pull the rubber boot off the end and check out the carbon contact ( and spring ) to see if it's shot. The carbon bit contacts the end of the spark plug and can errode over a long period of time.

When I had my HR31, sometimes the car would be OK but when the coils packs got hot, the fault would show up. I replaced my set with a set that were in much better condition and problem solved.

If you do need coil packs, give me a yell. I've got a bunch of really good condition ones.

Otherwise, have a good look at spark plugs, wiring, connection plugs etc for general condition.

Hope that helps you some :dry:

Had a couple of ignitor failures as mentioned earlier, this will give you simptoms you are experiencing, but as SKid said , start with the basics first, keep in mind the components you are talking about are around 16 years old.

Ed,

If it's not happening all the time there's a pretty good chance it's the coil packs. When you get the coils out, have a good look at the clearish plastic window on the side and see if there's any burn marks, bubbles in the plastic, cracks etc, etc. Also, pull the rubber boot off the end and check out the carbon contact ( and spring ) to see if it's shot. The carbon bit contacts the end of the spark plug and can errode over a long period of time.

When I had my HR31, sometimes the car would be OK but when the coils packs got hot, the fault would show up. I replaced my set with a set that were in much better condition and problem solved.

If you do need coil packs, give me a yell. I've got a bunch of really good condition ones.

Otherwise, have a good look at spark plugs, wiring, connection plugs etc for general condition.

Hope that helps you some :dry:

Hey dude if you figure out the problem make sure you post back here ok. Im running pretty much the same set up and have the same problem. Had my fuel pump replaced and after that it ran alot better but now its gone crap again so i need to start with some other ideas (which unfortunately there are alot of, my mechanic is convinced that my timing belts off by a gear or 2, but im 90% sure hes had to many spanners drop on his head)

Edited by r32 gts-turbo
Hey dude if you figure out the problem make sure you post back here ok. Im running pretty much the same set up and have the same problem. Had my fuel pump replaced and after that it ran alot better but now its gone crap again so i need to start with some other ideas (which unfortunately there are alot of, my mechanic is convinced that my timing belts off by a gear or 2, but im 90% sure hes had to many spanners drop on his head)

I had pretty much the same problem in 1 X R32GTST, 2 X R33GTS's, 1 X R34GTT and 1 X Stagea and fitting NGK copper plugs and gapping them as per the above fixed it in ALL of them.

Why look for the complicated answer before trying the simple and cheap ($20) solution first.

:D cheers :P

and while you have the coilpacks out to change the plugs you could tape them up. kill 2 birds with 1 stone.

But then you won't know what the real problem was.

One thing at a time

Leave the plug cover off until you are happy

Then it is simple to check the coil packs if it's not the plugs

:huh: cheers :angry:

Edited by Sydneykid

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • First up, I wouldn't use PID straight up for boost control. There's also other control techniques that can be implemented. And as I said, and you keep missing the point. It's not the ONE thing, it's the wrapping it up together with everything else in the one system that starts to unravel the problem. It's why there are people who can work in a certain field as a generalist, IE a IT person, and then there are specialists. IE, an SQL database specialist. Sure the IT person can build and run a database, and it'll work, however theyll likely never be as good as a specialist.   So, as said, it's not as simple as you're thinking. And yes, there's a limit to the number of everything's in MCUs, and they run out far to freaking fast when you're designing a complex system, which means you have to make compromises. Add to that, you'll have a limited team working on it, so fixing / tweaking some features means some features are a higher priority than others. Add to that, someone might fix a problem around a certain unrelated feature, and that change due to other complexities in the system design, can now cause a new, unforseen bug in something else.   The whole thing is, as said, sometimes split systems can work as good, and if not better. Plus when there's no need to spend $4k on an all in one solution, to meet the needs of a $200 system, maybe don't just spout off things others have said / you've read. There's a lot of misinformation on the internet, including in translated service manuals, and data sheets. Going and doing, so that you know, is better than stating something you read. Stating something that has been read, is about as useful as an engineering graduate, as all they know is what they've read. And trust me, nearly every engineering graduate is useless in the real world. And add to that, if you don't know this stuff, and just have an opinion, maybe accept what people with experience are telling you as information, and don't keep reciting the exact same thing over and over in response.
    • How complicated is PID boost control? To me it really doesn't seem that difficult. I'm not disputing the core assertion (specialization can be better than general purpose solutions), I'm just saying we're 30+ years removed from the days when transistor budgets were in the thousands and we had to hem and haw about whether there's enough ECC DRAM or enough clock cycles or the interrupt handler can respond fast enough to handle another task. I really struggle to see how a Greddy Profec or an HKS EVC7 or whatever else is somehow a far superior solution to what you get in a Haltech Nexus/Elite ECU. I don't see OEMs spending time on dedicated boost control modules in any car I've ever touched. Is there value to separating out a motor controller or engine controller vs an infotainment module? Of course, those are two completely different tasks with highly divergent requirements. The reason why I cite data sheets, service manuals, etc is because as you have clearly suggested I don't know what I'm doing, can't learn how to do anything correctly, and have never actually done anything myself. So when I do offer advice to people I like to use sources that are not just based off of taking my word for it and can be independently verified by others so it's not just my misinterpretation of a primary source.
    • That's awesome, well done! Love all these older Datsun / Nissans so rare now
    • As I said, there's trade offs to jamming EVERYTHING in. Timing, resources etc, being the huge ones. Calling out the factory ECU has nothing to do with it, as it doesn't do any form of fancy boost control. It's all open loop boost control. You mention the Haltech Nexus, that's effectively two separate devices jammed into one box. What you quote about it, is proof for that. So now you've lost flexibility as a product too...   A product designed to do one thing really well, will always beat other products doing multiple things. Also, I wouldn't knock COTS stuff, you'd be surprised how many things are using it, that you're probably totally in love with As for the SpaceX comment that we're working directly with them, it's about the type of stuff we're doing. We're doing design work, and breaking world firsts. If you can't understand that I have real world hands on experience, including in very modern tech, and actually understand this stuff, then to avoid useless debates where you just won't accept fact and experience, from here on, it seems you'd be be happy I (and possibly anyone with knowledge really) not reply to your questions, or input, no matter how much help you could be given to help you, or let you learn. It seems you're happy reading your data sheets, factory service manuals, and only want people to reinforce your thoughts and points of view. 
    • I don't really understand because clearly it's possible. The factory ECU is running on like a 4 MHz 16-bit processor. Modern GDI ECUs have like 200 MHz superscalar cores with floating point units too. The Haltech Nexus has two 240 MHz CPU cores. The Elite 2500 is a single 80 MHz core. Surely 20x the compute means adding some PID boost control logic isn't that complicated. I'm not saying clock speed is everything, but the requirements to add boost control to a port injection 6 cylinder ECU are really not that difficult. More I/O, more interrupt handlers, more working memory, etc isn't that crazy to figure out. SpaceX if anything shows just how far you can get arguably doing things the "wrong" way, ie x86 COTS running C++ on Linux. That is about as far away from the "correct" architecture as it gets for a real time system, but it works anyways. 
×
×
  • Create New...