Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Oil Pump Dead? Weird Problem

>GoDziLLa<

By >GoDziLLa<,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

>GoDziLLa< Collaborator

>GoDziLLa<

Posted
Posted (edited)

I took my GTR to calder park drags today and first run went fine but on my second run towards the end the oil pressure gauge dropped to zero and red light came on. and car felt weird towards end of the run.

my friend reckons there was a big cloud of black smoke from my exhaust.

Anyway pulled over and car was running and sounding weird, like it wanted to stall and it did a few times.

checked oil level and it was ok. I let the car cool down for a few hours and checked oil again seemed fine but when I started the car the oil pressure red warning light was on again.

Lifters and tappets were noisy like no oil was circulating to the top of the engine.

So I had no choice but to drive it home real slow at low revs and right as I got home it stalled in my driveway and wont start now.

What I want to know is does this sound like my oil pump is gone and not pumping or

plugs fouled or both. when it first happened car did start but now it won't and I'm confused.

would a stuffed oil pump affect the car starting at all?

Any help or ideas would be appreciated

Thanks

Edited by >GoDziLLa<
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124508-is-my-oil-pump-dead-weird-problem/
Share on other sites
Craved Grand Master

Craved

Posted
Posted

stuffed oil pump will cause no oil on the bearings... no oil on the bearings means no lubrictaion

= spun bearings = rebuild time

hope thats not the case though

--- do you mean fuel pressure or oil pressure in the first line??

no oil cam cause the cams to seize aswell ... you shouldn't have driven it home IMO

>GoDziLLa< Collaborator

>GoDziLLa<

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I was talking about no oil pressure and yes the engine does crank over but it just doesnt start,

damn I hope it hasnt seized keeping in mind it only took me 5 mins to get home. Its like when the car has no fuel and just doesnt want to start but Its got fuel in there.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted
That is called no compression hate to be bearer of bad news

yeah 99% you've blown the motor, and you were damn lucky not to sieze it as well. a compression test can confirm for you since the starter motor can still turn it.

and if the motor has run for a while after the pump died you will need to budget for a new bottom and and possibly head, everything will be rooted (block, crank, pistons etc)

T04GTR Grand Master

T04GTR

Posted
Posted

ummmm. please dont test it :) its alreaddy f**ked im sory to say.

that ltlle red light has to come on for about 1 second at full boost to destroy a motor.

just park it and start looking for a bottom end. sory to be blunt but theres no way a motor could survive that.

good luck with the rebuild

>GoDziLLa< Collaborator

>GoDziLLa<

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I did try to start it again today but as someone said theres no compresssion so I guess Im screwed.

I have a brand new fully forged RB30 bottom end with arias pistons and ACL race bearings that I was gonna put into my VL, how hard would it be to use that on the GTR and make it 3 litre?

Also what are the chances that I damaged the head as well or any way to check.

D-limo Veteran

D-limo

Posted
Posted

Don't know how helpful this is to the topic.. My RB25 blew an oil hose and was ran without oil to the point of the exhaust cam seizing. It still runs fine on 4 cyls with an A/M ecu on base maps :(

I will be pulling it down to check the bearings and give it a freshen up at the same time. Head is goneskis though.

Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

the rb30 bottom end is perfect, check out the recent rb30/26 in a gtr thread you will find all the infor you need. main thing is a sump adapter plate which you can buy from fitzpatrick speed works on here.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted
ummmm. please dont test it :( its alreaddy f**ked im sory to say.

that ltlle red light has to come on for about 1 second at full boost to destroy a motor.

just park it and start looking for a bottom end. sory to be blunt but theres no way a motor could survive that.

good luck with the rebuild

Not always, I have seen the light come on when the vehicle had an alternator problem. Replaced alternator, light went out. Manual oil pressure test confirmed no problems.

Although this was a one in a million chance it still happened that way. Had me baffled for quite some time.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shoota_77
      Shoota's R33 GT-R RB30/26

      By Shoota_77 · Posted

      @soviet_merlin Thanks mate!  Nothing too major but will hold me up for a while. I've got lymphomas to get taken off the back of my neck and the middle of my spine which always conjures scary thoughts!  It sounds worse than it is. Yeah great, conjuring more rabbit hole deepening , just what I need! 🤣  
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      I'd argue the F50 kit I got is very good value. For ~2k I got the calipers (refurbed condition), adapters, pads, brake lines, rotors, and top hats. I think you'd be pretty hard to get Evo/GTR/350z brembos + the additional hardware for similar money. Used market for a pair of front calipers alone I've seen tend to run anywhere from $1500-2000 depending on condition.    That said, something like a GTR or 350z brembo is a lot easier to adapt to the Silvia. 
    • Milkmun
      S15 Spec R

      By Milkmun · Posted

      Is there a significant price difference between the Evo/gtr/350z brembos vs the F50? Looks amazing.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R33 fuel setup

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      I was actually being a tightarse at the time LOL... My OCD is tickling me into running a 2nd 8AN Teflon hose all the way down and removing the 2x OEM hardlines. My other side of my brain is telling me to run 2x hardlines front to back (also acts as a fuel cooler, so win win).
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As I mentioned in an earlier post, I had some trouble with the Silvia's brakes dragging back in 2023. I managed to sort it out then, but the same problem came back to bite me late last year. Just take a look at the picture – I had a feeling the handbrake was acting up again, and I was right. Anyway, I'd been wanting to upgrade to bigger brakes for a while. Not that the Silvia's brakes were bad, but it was more of a "want" than a "need", you know? It was funny, though – at the time, I couldn't find any Evo Brembos, 350Z Brembos, or GTR Brembos for a decent price (of course, tons of them popped up online after I already bought my kit!). I ended up going with an F50 Brembo kit, which came with adapters, brake lines, 330mm rotors, and top hats. The F50 Brembo caliper was used in a few other cars too, like the FPV. I also decided this was the perfect opportunity to ditch the Silvia's ridiculous rear brakes and that awful handbrake (some of you were definitely right about that!). I picked up some R33 calipers and all the necessary bits – rear drums, backing plates, and new hardware to refurbish the calipers. Of course, it wouldn't be a project without a few hiccups. Turns out the brake master cylinder was playing up and basically (to put it simply) keeping the brakes engaged. I had it overhauled, and after some adjustments, everything was working again. The whole process took a while, as you can imagine. To top it off, the front right wheel bearings were shot and needed replacing too. This is a rare occasion where I'm posting an update while it's all still fresh! These pictures were taken just this afternoon.
×
×
  • Create New...