Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 41
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

We have this stuff at work called "never fog" it costs $2 and comes in a little packet, its a cloth that has some sort of anti fog stuff on it and you just rub it all over your window, works really well I hardly ever get fog appearing on my windows anymore.

Edited by Dave69001
n15mo... ur from brisbane.. i guess u dont know the weather down in melbourne... its terribly cold...

dave... where can you buy it??... sounds like an excellent idea...

We sell it where I work (carewash in mt druitt and norwest and envirowash in bankstown) im not sure of any places like Autobarn etc that sell it as its an American product developed for their harsh winters but ill try find out where is it is available for you :whistling:

I hate that No-Fog/Fog-X/Never Fog stuff, because it leaves an oily film on the windscreen that makes it look dirty and hazey in the sunlight... and if you wipe all of the oily stuff off, then you've just wiped off the product and it does sh1t-all!

I find just keeping the inside of the windscreen PERFECTLY clean and spotless is the best option. Then 10 seconds with a blast of hot air demists it quick as a flash! When your windscreen is dirty though, it takes AGES to demist the glass.

We have this stuff at work called "never fog" it costs $2 and comes in a little packet, its a cloth that has some sort of anti fog stuff on it and you just rub it all over your window, works really well I hardly ever get fog appearing on my windows anymore.

That stuff OWNS.

Seriously owns.

OR use the air con.

The cef didnt have air con I just used heat to get rid of it. Hot full blown for 10 seconds would get rid of the coldest fog.

Driving to work at 4:30am guarantee's my windows fogging up so a light wipe over of the AntiFog (made by RainX) and its 98% gone. The only problem with this stuff is if you put it on too thick than it actually works against you.

As gtst1976 said, just run the heater and the aircon at the same time. Set the temp to 20 odd, make sure the air flow is on windscreen, and bingo, demisted windows during the cold wet weather.

The air-con removes the moisture (humidity) from the car on a warm day, and it will also remove the moisture (fog) from the car on a cold day.

Edited by nickcorr

I found its a waste of time, as someone else said it leaves a greasy streaky residue, i might as well have sprayed crc on my windows. Got pissed with it to wiped it off the drivers side but its still on the passengers side. My flatmate said it best when she was in the passengers seat, "it looks like i'm driving drunk, but im not" lol..

The rainX window cleaner however works a treat :).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Is there a diameter difference in the stock to Nismo? If so, the weight alone won't be indicative when comparing flywheels of the same diameter, since the radius of the flywheel acts on the moment of inertia with a square factor, where as mass is linear. Roughly going from a 4.5kg flywheel with radius 20cm, to a 9kg flywheel with radius 14cm would see them act the same. This calc is just here to act as a brief numbers comparison and reflects no actual RB flywheel diameters etc. it also assumes even weight distribution (thickness) throughout.
    • It seems this could be due to a restructure/team direction change... Or... You're working with a different category of vehicle... Or you've decided you'd rather be able to play with your own cars again...   I'm hoping the latter...
    • had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........
    • Did you get any down time over Christmas, or have you had any since to play with this? Or have you given up and are trying to get yourself a second hand V8SC instead?
    • A random thought I had just before I hit "Submit on this post". If brake fluid, in a container in my garage that has never been opened goes bad after 18 months, why can I leave it in my car for 24 months in an "unsealed container"... Secondly, some other digging, and brake fluid manufacturers seem to be saying 5 year shelf life... Me thinks there line on 18 months for an unsealed bottle is pretty much horse shit marketing spin. Kind of like how if you drive a car and don't run a turbo timer your turbo and motor will die horribly...   Where I started on this though... Someone (me) started down a bit of a rabbit hole, I don't quite have the proper equipment to do Equilibrium Reflux boiling per the proper test standards. I did a little digging on YouTube, and this was the first video I found on someone attempting to "just boil it". This video isn't overly scientific, as we don't have a known reference for his test either. Inaccuracy in his equipment could have him reaching the 460 to 470f boiling point range in reality. In the video, using a laser temp gun, he claims his Dot3 that's been open in his florida garage for over a year gets to about 420 to 430 fahrenheit (215 to 221c) Doing some googling, I located an MSDS for that specific oil, and from new, it claims a dry boiling point of 460 to 470f. Unfortunately they don't list a wet boiling point for us to see how far it degraded toward its "wet" point. While watching it I was thinking "I wonder what the flash point is..." turns out its only 480f for that specific brake fluid....   As for testing the oil's resistance, I might not be able to accurately do that unfortunately. Resistance level will be quite a LOT higher than my system can read I suspect based on some research. However, I might be able to do it by measuring the current when I apply a specific voltage. I won't have an actual water % value, but I'll have some values I can compare between the multitude of fluids. I'll run some vague calculations later and see if I should be able to read any reliable amount of current. These calcs will be based on some values I've found for other oils, and see how close I'll need my terminals together. From memory I can get down to 1pA accuracy on the DMM. I don't think my IOT Power Tester has any better resolution.    
×
×
  • Create New...