Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

bought a dodgy blow off valve ( first ebay experience ) when i fit it the car was having all sorts of idling problems major power surges and just plain no power at all... took it off after the mechanics told me it was the bov not working properly...

since putting the stock bov back on i'm still getting idling problems when starting the car up (when cold) and it takes a minute to be able to free rev the engine because it sort of coffs and sputtlers.... also when driving the bov is much louder and it sounds like theres a a/m bov on there, it's releasing between gears and when coming off boost...

my mechanic checked it out and told me it's probably a computer problem and to see an auto electrician but that still doesn't explain the bov being so noisy, does it???

please help i know very little but don't wanna pay any more money to not get it fixed.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124685-blow-off-problems/
Share on other sites

yeah it's connected properly weve tested it with that spray on leak findind stuff..

it's clamped an all but i personally think its leaking some were as well... but where???

cant follow the bov return pipe down far enough to see without pulling all the smic pipes out the mech's tested as far down as they could see but no good... could it be that the bov is releasing more down the return pipe now and as a result making more noise??

when driving it's only going bout 80% power but the turbo sounds like it's winding up much louder than before...

a big lesson has been learned bout buying cheap car parts....

was there a restrictor in the piping when you first took the stock bov off? i have heard of a few people that have found a restrictor plate plugging up part of the plumback pipe directly after the bov. if there was and that is no longer there then that is the extra noise problem.

oh well i'll soon find out off to the auto electrician.. will post results thanks guys

could you tell me what sort of bov you bought as i just bought one off ebay and when it arrived didnt look like a fair dinkum one it is a supposedly hybrid supersonic bov and not to sure to fit it now or not

auto electrician?

What a waste.

You had sparks plugs in there when you had the crap bov which caused overfueling and coughing and spluttering.

They are fouled.

Take them out, buy a new set of spark plugs (NGK BCPR6ES-8 (if they don’t have the -8’s you can also use the -11’s but will have to re-gap them)), put them in and it should be all good.

Cost you about $4 each plug.

well there was no computer problem, just a loose hose connection coming off the turbo...

i thought it was leaking and i was right and two different mechanics couldn't figure it out.. the auto electrician did...

thanks for the suggestions guys

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hey guys been looking everywhere to try and find the correct gtr hood latch support part number but only found the first half and when I search with that number it sends me to an r34. The first part I found was 62515. If anyone could help me with the rest then I’d really appreciate it. Or if there’s some alternative hood latch support that would work even better cause I can’t find any for sale. (Searched on upgarage, partsouq,buyee,rhdjapan) 
    • If you've only done the upper control arms on the rear, AND you have changed their length (by more than about 1mm) to set the camber you want, then you will definitely need/want to install traction arms also. Adjusting the camber arms on their own WILL introduce bump steer and make the car unpleasant to drive. Most owners have no idea that their car could behave infinitely better than what they put up with. I'm not entirely sure what the Stageas need, but I am thinking that unless you have massive front spring rates and pretty soft rear springs, you have waaaay too much rear bar. Oversteer city, in my estimation. Combined with possible excessive bump steer from maladjusted arms, that could be a recipe for nastiness. ATR43SS2 is not a highflow. It is an outright replacement turbo. It's a little bit bigger than the largest highflow profile that Tao does. Probably a solid 300rwkW turbo where the bigger highflows will be about 30-40rwkW less. Nevertheless, we're only talking about ~300 rwkW, which is well within the abilities of the stock ECu to run with a Nistune on board. I would do so without hesitation - and I will be doing so when I get my finger out and actually get the injectors and AFM installed. But, if you would prefer to drop a whole lot more money on the ECU side, then I suspect you're looking at Haltech. The Haltech fanbois here will all spout on about all the available engine protection you can have, that you can't have with the Nistune option. And they're right. But it doesn't really come for free either. You will spend more money on extra sensors and the like, plus the work to install them. If the engine was built and therefore represented a big investment to protect, then I'd say definitely do it. If you view the current (and forever into the future) shortage of replacement engines as something to prompt similar protection, then also, do it. If you see a destroyed RB25 as an opportunity to put in a Mercedes or other V12 (like I kinda do)... then your perception of the risk/reward might differ. These are good injectors. You can also get a "better" set of the same with more flow matching, for more $$. 1000cc is where you will want to be. You will need an R35 AFM and adapter tube if you want to stay with Nistuned stock ECU. Otherwise, if going Haltech, you can ignore. As for intercooler. Just about anything will do. You're only talking about ~300rwkW. Just put a big core in there. Be aware that return flows do add significant pressure drop and will cost power and will make the turbo work harder to achieve the same goals. If you can manage a proper crossflow, do it. I'm keeping my very good return flow because I'm only expecting to be in the ~250rwkW range, and will live with whatever outcome I get.
    • I have a heap that i have collected if you want some authentic ones still. Pm me if your interested!
×
×
  • Create New...