Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Price Droped!!

Genuine Recaro bucket seat.

*Black in color.

*Reclinable

*Uni-Side - Recline Adjuster & etc on both sides. (can fit to driver or passanger side.)

*3 Way Relinable Adjuster. Easy Tilt Flip down, Tilt Twister Knob & Forward/back Lever.

With Rails NEW Price: $400 Firm.

Pick Up Preferd!! "Liverpool Area" (may post interstate @ buyers expents)

Note: This is a "Genuine Recaro Bucket Seat". With a "Designer Sport" Logo Add.

Inspections Welcome. PM me.

Will Chuck in Free NEW Universal Rails with this item.

Note: Recaro Rails pictured below. Is Not included.

Contact: PM me.

post-4840-1152083303.jpg

post-4840-1152083375.jpg

post-4840-1152083401.jpg

post-4840-1152176116.jpg

post-4840-1152176181.jpg

post-4840-1152176283.jpg

post-4840-1152176318.jpg

Edited by FILO34

I Had a look very interesting but im not a fan of the fixed buckets. If reclinable then maybe.

But thanks for the offer though. Cheers.

................................................................................

........................................................

Item still for sale or trade!! Bump...

Hi I'm interested, are there any other markings on the Recaro - on the bottom maybe - that show it as a genuine Recaro? Just a bit confused by the 'designer sport' logo but no Recaro logo.

Cheers

Umm not to sure but wont be able to get to it if it was underneeth the seat as it is still installed in the car.

Yeah the "designer sport" logo is abit off but it looks like it was put on though. I got the seats like that with the car from japan so yeah.

But i'll have a look for other Recaro logos.

Cheers

RBFIRE & nuffsaid: Yeah the pics aint that good at all but thats the best i can do. Come and have a look at it yourself's to inspect that it is a recaro. As posting pics wont do.

anexiole As posted im in Syndey - Liverpools Area.

Yes i do have a phone number PM Me for that & don't know how much it is to send to vic 3004 but i'll see if i can find out.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • to fix the voltage drop issue I swapped out the old 150amp alternator which turns out is a brand known for having issues and replaced it with the black 180amp alternator beside it 
    • For anyone interested, the Way Back Machine has that Japanese website archived with pictures, etc: https://web.archive.org/web/20051023225805fw_/http://www.a31cefiro.com/air_con.htm "Simply swapping the wiring of the harness will not allow it to function properly. For the outdoor air sensor and sunlight sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN1-11 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. For the indoor air sensor, disconnect the wiring connected to CN2-3 of the air conditioning harness from the harness and connect the sensor side wiring to earth. The connector PIN numbers listed here are the genuine A31 PIN numbers. To avoid incorrect wiring, check with a tester before wiring. Also, disconnect the wiring in a location close to the sensor. The disconnected harness side wiring will not be used, so be sure to insulate it." Wish someone sold a conversion harness to just plug-and-play a Kouki 180sx digital climate control into C33/A31. I'm decent with wiring but feeling kinda lazy about taking this on. Edit: Did some more digging and found a helpful Minkara blog post about the conversion as well: https://minkara.carview.co.jp/userid/1831116/car/1360568/2284209/note.aspx "After installation is complete or the battery is replaced, you need to go into self-diagnosis mode and set the internal air recirculation. The way to do it is to "hold OFF with the key on for more than 5 seconds, set the number to 5, then press 卍→C." ↑↑↑It probably won't make sense unless you actually try it (・∀・)." Lol wtf
    • Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...
    • Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan   I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...
    • Well, yeah, the RB26 is definitely that far off the mark. From a pure technology point of view it is closer to the engines of the 60s than it is to the engines of the last 10 years. There is absolutely nothing special about an RB26 that wasn't present in engines going all the way back to the 60s, except probably the four valve head. The bottom end is just bog standard Japanese stuff. The head is nothing special. Celicas in the 70s were the same thing, in 4cyl 2 valve form. The ITBs are nothing special when you consider that the same Celicas had twin Solexes on them, and so had throttle plates in the exact same place. There's no variable valve timing, no variable inlet manifold, which even other RBs had either before the 26 came out or shortly afterward. The ECU is pretty rude and crude. The only things it has going for it are that the physical structure was pretty bloody tough for a mass produced engine, the twin-turbos and ITBs made for a bit of uniqueness against the competition (and even Toyota were ahead on the twin turbs thing, weren't they?) and the electronic controls and measuring devices (ie, AFMs, CAS, etc) were good enough to make it run well. Oh, and it sounds better than almost anything else, ever. The VR38 is absolutely halfway between the RB generation and the current generation, so it definitely has a massive increase in the sophistication of the electronics, allowing for a lot more dynamic optimisation of mapping. Then there's things like metal treatments and other coatings on things, adoption of variable cam stuff, and a bunch of other little improvements that mean it has to be a better thing than the RB26. But I otherwise agree with you that it is approximately the same thing as a 26. But, skip forward another 10 years from that engine and then the things that I mentioned in previous post come out to play. High compression, massively sophisticated computers, direct injection, clever measuring sensors, etc etc. They are the real difference between trying to make big power with a 26 and trying to make big power with a S/B50/54 (or whatever the preferred BMW engine of the week is).
×
×
  • Create New...