Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i filled up from empty 54lts or something of BP ultimate costing me around 70 bucks or so.

drove from brissy to noosa and back down the whole coast line. to brissy again then a few trip to work and back during the week. saw me get just 470km to the tank.

with a few hard drivings.. eg overtaking fast, and a few city run arounds.

also my clutch is rooted.. slips on boost so thats pretty good fuel eco.

Mods: pod, semi exhuast. i think.. thats it.. stock as.

SO not to bad but the looks of all these posts.

r32 sedan... 3" exhaust, pod, fmic, 11psi boost

i've dropped down to about 270-290km/55L from the 330-360km/55L that i was getting before the fmic install :)

that's all city driving, and well, i drive the skyline the way it's supposed to be used :)

i just put 100octane in last night. done 65km and my fuel guage hasnt moved. thats a first for me! ill keep you informed

is your fuel gauge's rate of change linear though? Mine moves slowly from a full tank and as i get to half a tank it starts to speed up.

and how much more expensive than unleaded is optimax extreme? heaps of others complained about their cars not working so well because they're tuned to the usual type of premium.

is your fuel gauge's rate of change linear though? Mine moves slowly from a full tank and as i get to half a tank it starts to speed up.

and how much more expensive than unleaded is optimax extreme? heaps of others complained about their cars not working so well because they're tuned to the usual type of premium.

its pretty linear, slow at first then normal, then quick at last quarter.....

I did aboout 280km and i stil had a quarter of a tank left..i had exactly 200km to half a tank which is amazing.. ill normally have to fullup very shortly after 200km. that last 80km was some very sprited driving, alot of city crusing on a friday night....

it is about 5-6c more expensive then optimax... but definately worth it, so around 13-14c more expensive than normal premium which is pretty good.....

My car runs fine on it, so much more torque down low i barely need to boost it, so much more enthusiasim up high, i think it smokes a little bit more but thats prob burning ethanol... oh well its all good.. ill prob run a few tanks of 100 and a tank or 2 of 98 here and there......

Edited by Mr Ed32

You guys are killing me here :nyaanyaa:

R33 - pod - 3inch exhaust.

I only got 380kms out of 50litres, and 200kms of that was 5th gear freeway kms.

I'm looking at about 300kms per 50litres city driving.

I drive it fairly easy, for the first 10 mins, then i start watching my boost gauge.lol.

(gets up to 9psi on factory boost).

I cant help it, that's what skylines are made for.

Changed my O2 sensor last week. Has made no difference at all.

The way I see it, you want performance, it's gonna chew up fuel.

On the other hand, my mate's FPV F6 turbo goes through a tank every few days. Now that's crazy.

Just realised the topic is RB20's. sorry bout that.

Edited by Munkyb0y
half a tank so far.

94 bucks to fill

100km on the clock.

Damn mash, that's rough.

I'm still excited by my last tank - 511km! It worked out to be 11.76L/100km (stock pretty much everything). I felt like Kramer driving around with the orange fuel light glowing...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
    • Same thought crossed my mind ~ depends on how one connotes 'stalling'...ie; gets a rough/stumbling idle as it get warm until it stalls... or... idles ok and simply falls-over when it gets to temp... ...you can test the whole circuit with a couple of resistors ...unplug coolant temp sensor, bridge terminals with a 2K7 resistor (ECU will do cold start), or with engine warm bridge with a 330R resistor (ECU will consider engine to be at normal operating temp)...it's a quick way to check wiring integrity/ECU response when you don't have a multimeter handy ...
    • They also make them with the motor mounted on the side 
×
×
  • Create New...