Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was driving in the city today, lots of stop/starting at traffic lights.

I drive off from the lights then notice that when I lift off to change gears, the revs kinda stay where they are and don't drop... nothing too bad yet, but the car still revved freely as usual.

Then I come up to the next set of lights (red) and stop. The cars revs drop down to idle, then the engine starts fluctuating, from idle up to about 1,500rpm and back again... continuously until the lights go green again (about 1 and half minutes).

Then the lights go green and I take off again, this time when revs rise and it's just about to hit boost, the car SHUDDERS so much (like lurching back and forth), that I just instinctively change gears... then when I build up speed again and almost hit boost, the car starts shuddering again so I change gears.

Then the at the next set of lights the car starts fluctuating revs again... Geezuz. So I just turn the ignition off and wait for the lights to go green. When they do, I switch the car on again and viola! Back to normal... :D:D:wave:

Can ANYONE diagnose the problem?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/124740-rb20det-weirdness/
Share on other sites

Yep stock ECU. Only running cat back 3" exhaust, big intercooler and about 10psi... although I don't have a boost controller of any sort... thats what the GReddy boost guage says.

So what sensor could it be?

Just to add, I find that when I go off throttle, sometimes it feels like the throttle body is completely shut, with proper engine braking happening... but other times it feels like (even though I've taken my foot completely off the accelerator) the engine braking isn't happening at all... almost like it's holding throttle as in not accelerating or braking. This I can live with, but still I don't know what it's happening intermittently.

Not sure about the shudder, but the idle sounds like a problem with the AAC valve.

It's been covered a gazillion times - go searching.

Ok we'll do. Tahnks

Anyone have any idea about the shudder, and the off-throttle holding revs weird thing?

Sounds like it went into ECU Limp Mode.

Any idea why it would? Also, is 'limp mode' something that can be reset just by turning the ignition off then on again?

Weird I tell ya...

the exact same thing happends to my mates r32. Been going on for about 4 months now, and hes taken it everywhere to get it fixed, changed EVERYTHING possible that could be the problem and still not fixed so if u actually find out whats wrong could u pm me the problem and what needed fixing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I much prefer that to an actual oil pressure issue, never would of thought it would of been a volt drop issue but SAU brains win again. Guess ill be turning down the oil pressure limit for the track and hunting some grounds. Ill hopefully update this thread with some high oil pressure and solid ecu voltage logs. 
    • You've just discovered a really good reason to tell yourself, yes, I do need to buy an aftermarket ECU. Put the MAF in the bin. Slap in the new ECU and have a think about what turbo sounds you prefer.  Do you want a 90's style BOV wooosh? Do you want a hektik tsututututu?  Mate, can't go wrong. Just gotta get that ECU and the world is your oyster. 
    • Hi. Iam just curisou about this topic. I saw this video. It is about Greddy Type FV2. I know that BoVs are about that sound but how and when to use it? I read some topic here and from what i have understand on stock RB with MAF there will be some "problems" if you use this BoV? It vents the air in to the atmosphere and the MAF on stock car needs this air back in to the intake and not out? Or is it wrong? If so...i saw you can put some adaptor to circule air back...but does that not "loose" that sound? I saw another BoV from Turbosmart and it has two "exhaust" like ports? One is for the stock tubing for letting air back and one is for "sound" and let the air in the atmosphere? Can someone please explain? This is the Greddy one:  And this is the Turbosmart.     THANK YOU!! EDIT: So i read about this topic some more and i if i understand that correctly: That Greddy can function either like BoV or 100% Bypass valve? And that Turbosmart is what they called hybrid so you can adjust what and how many air can be vented out or back in? Is this right? THX!
    • That dirty voltage drop is the culprit I suspect 
    • i cant get them all in 1 screenshot unfortunately as i just dont know how to move things around tbh, but they are all from the same log and the line crosses at the same point for all of them
×
×
  • Create New...