Stagea Manual Conversion Guide

[overpowered]

correct, and yes ive had plenty of issues over the years doing the manual conversion and gtr diff/axles/uni joints, brakes, fuel system etc because no one has done it on a stagea before that i could speak to anyway.

oh the joys of pioneering

[yokotas13]

BUT i did find out

that you can use an s14 diff, and change the input shaft for hte driveshaft(if comes off with a 23mm i think nut and some banging) and it bolts right in, supposedly

[overpowered]

and use what driveshafts? the pissy stock ones?

[yokotas13]

hell yeah!

why not?

Keep a few spares to the track, hella cheaper than going with the GTR option.

350 for a nismo 2 way in a pumkin, swap shafts, and your good to go

[overpowered]

heres a couple of pics of the recessed booster and i always say do things once and do em right, i dont replace broken bits with the same bits (except maybe gtr gearboxes because gearsets, etc are soo $$$)

i broke an axle with 350rwhp so that aint exactly heaps of power to be snapping things, andf it wasnt even a launch it was a roll on in 1st gear, just coming on boost

Edited April 15, 2007 by overpowered

[GoldZilla]

I'll have to check if my master cylinder has been recessed - I've never bothered or though to check it before...

Once again, I'm glad I bought my car already converted to manual.

[yokotas13]

heres a couple of pics of the recessed booster and i always say do things once and do em right, i dont replace broken bits with the same bits (except maybe gtr gearboxes because gearsets, etc are soo $$$)

i broke an axle with 350rwhp so that aint exactly heaps of power to be snapping things, andf it wasnt even a launch it was a roll on in 1st gear, just coming on boost

yeah i was missing the recess thing in my kit then

ill just get an r33 pedal and benchbleed my master and it should work

[overpowered]

the recess part that the booster sits in doesnt come from nissan, its part of the firewall on autech models, so we made our own out of 4' pipe and some other metal and abit welding and it looks neat and pretty hard to notice with the engine in

[darrinspencer]

ill just get an r33 pedal and benchbleed my master and it should work

R33 pedal and bracket will not fit

Need a Stagea or maybe r34

[yokotas13]

R33 pedal and bracket will not fit

Need a Stagea or maybe r34

then i will leave my stagea pedal in tehre

[darrinspencer]

then i will leave my stagea pedal in tehre

Not the Autech Stagea pedal, you need the series 2 "S" pedal and bracket

[yokotas13]

well, the autech works kinda if i put soem spacers in there, the clutch arm is lined up adn has full travel, adn isnt binding....so it works for now

[tRUkbOY]

well, the autech works kinda if i put soem spacers in there, the clutch arm is lined up adn has full travel, adn isnt binding....so it works for now

Yes. The Autech pedal combined with a RWD Nissan Master Cylinder (ie S14, Navara etc) & the appropriate length internal shaft for the Cylinder (S14 is correct anyway) + a Factory Nissan Spacer from like a Primera will do the trick. Just means it will be unboosted but realistically my RB26 is unboosted & its a pull type & its fine to drive everyday in traffic.

[yokotas13]

im tryign to use an r33 master cylinder.....supposedly a friend said it should work?

[Duncan]

GTRs also have the recessed firewall to allow for the assisted clutch. If you use an unassisted clutch eg 34 gtt you won't have a problem.

[beastien]

I have an R34 GTT (same as RS4S S2 Stagea) master cylinder, and it's fine.

Clutch has around 3200lb of clamp pressure.

[yokotas13]

OK, a small update

THe R33 Master and slave work on my Autech box.

you have to flip the slave over, and add some washers to space it from the body, but it works

I have yet to try the slave that came with the autech setup. i will eventually, but this is workign for now.

pedal feel with a single plate exedy is great@!

[captinsane]

ok...so quick question - i have a mate who has done an auto to manual conversion on his 33 4 door and he had to change his rear diffs so that the final drive ratio was similar (IE: the auto had a different ratio to the manual - and so to avoid sitting on 3500rpm at 100km/h down the highway in 5th, he changed the rear diff)

so how come some people are able to change just the box - leave the diffs the same, and no problem whatso-ever.... or have i just read 50+ pages of conversion guide wrong - I can only think that this is another reason behind changing the entire driveline at the same time.

[yokotas13]

becuase i dont care if my RPMs are at 3500 at 100KPH

just means faster spool

[captinsane]

LOL

So after the conversion it revs like a mofo on crack?... (AKA - my mate was right) - I just want to ascertain that if i do a manual conversion, will i need to change my rear diff (and subsequently my front diff) if i want it to operate as a daily driver with unpsycho final drive ratios.

Thanks blokes.

Edited May 2, 2007 by captinsane