Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No idea sorry, I definatly have the R32 box, and it'll be driving past your way on saturday with a new owner at the wheel too :( Unless you want to miss the stagea meet and come over to the northside?

I put an R33 GTR pull type box in mine, I swapped the R33 sender for the Stagea auto sender.

The wheels were different sizes, but they interchanged with no problems, works fine

and indicates the exact speed as it did before the conversion.

  • 2 years later...

G'day I would like to add this link with a few pics of the holes cut in the tranny tunnel for the manual box as well as the handbrake mounting position. Hope this helps someone.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ed#entry4850649

Cheers,

Jon.

  • 1 year later...
  • 4 weeks later...

I will be using a R34GTT clutch pedal and MC with the stock GTR slave cylinder or maybe a ¾ Nismo slave cylinder so no booster like a GTR.

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but am I right by this that if you use the R34 clutch pedal and master cylinder that you don't need to worry about the clutch booster and needing to recess it in the firewall?

  • 3 weeks later...

Sorry to bring back an old thread, but am I right by this that if you use the R34 clutch pedal and master cylinder that you don't need to worry about the clutch booster and needing to recess it in the firewall?

i just finished my manual conversion on my 96 rs4, i used a r34 gtt clutch pedal and a r33 master cylinder and didnt need a booster and you dont need to recess it. only the gtr clutch pedal is recessed into the firewall, i think all gtr clutch pedals are recessed, same with the autech gtr stageas. so if you have a r34 gt-t clutch pedal you should have no problems, they are hard to get tho i waited 6 months and didnt see 1 any where so i had to order it from nissan $780 NZD :(

should be lots around after the earthquake and all. hope this helps,

Johan

  • 1 year later...

Hi all, Just thought id add in my version.

ive just finished my auto to manual conversion, mine is a late 97 RS four, rb25det, series 1.

the parts i used are as follows.

- R32 gtr gearbox, $450 ebay

- R32 gtr slave cyl, come with the gearbox!

- R33 gtst clutch pedal and master cyl. $150 ebay,

- R33 gtst brake pedal, purchased with clutch pedal,

- custom made braded clutch line from pirtek (hyd hose company for those who dont know) $85,

- hard core cluth company clutch kit, cushion button, (half organic/half brass button) $450 ebay shop who sells clutch kits.

- rb30e standard fly wheel and bolts. come off a spare engine i bought for $100,

- R33 gtst hand brake and cable, came with pedals i bought.

- R34 manual center console, $140 ebay.

- genunie nissan spigot bearing, $4.

- gen nissan hand brake mounting, $68

plus a few other odd bits.

apart from cutting the hole in the tunnel for the gear stick, and in the fire wall for the clutch MC, every part i used was a dirrect bolt together fit,

no modifying any part to get it to fit. the flywheel fitted well, (size etc) the clutch kit was originaly purchased for my rb30 GQ patrol

as they to use a FS5R30A trans.

the only real trouble i had was removing and re fitting the top bolt near the head at the top of the gearbox, it required some custome spanner fabricating!

the clutch kit has a 2100kg pressure plate, im not using a booster and it feels like a stock clutch, and drives like a stock clutch.

my speed sensor was a straight swap from the auto into the manual, and it reads correct.

the manual will require longer bolts, i had some layin around the shed from other projects, but you will need to get some.

just thought this may help anyone with questions as to what will fit there model of stagea if doing this conversion,

it took me 2 full days on my own with no instruction apart from what ive read on this forum!

just a good hint for people looking for rb parts, alot of other nissans use the same parts, ie gearbox, flywheel, spigot bearing etc

so shop around, for example a good clutch kit for a R33 gtst, $700-1000, good kit for a patrol, $450.

2nd hand flywheel to suit rb25 $200-300, flywheel from an rb30 at the wreckers $70!

do your research and be patient! good things come to those who wait and performance loves good preperation.

R34 console details too....I plan to use one in my next build

I looked into using one and measured it all up about 4 years ago....its not a direct fit

But some things you may live with when comparing a R34 $140 console to $500-700 for a stagea manual console

R34 console details too....I plan to use one in my next build

I looked into using one and measured it all up about 4 years ago....its not a direct fit

But some things you may live with when comparing a R34 $140 console to $500-700 for a stagea manual console

That's for real - just using the auto console myself!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I dunno man, that VX S with 200,000 k's is still hanging out for 1.5 I reckon the R34 is the better buy, personally.
    • Dang, doesn't even include on roads.
    • Only in a market where OBD was a thing. The rest of the world was quite happy to let the US EPA only affect US cars for quite a while. The* problem with datalogs is that unless you are very familiar with what every trace should look like, on their own and as an ensemble, you can and will see weird shit that can and will lead you astray, not realising that what you are seeing is the normal consequence of various transient inputs. *Really, "a" problem, as there are of course many other problems too. Look, these cars are so bloody simple that if it is missing or stumbling, the obvious thing is to break out the old mental diagnostic list and just go do all the things that you know you should. After proving that the plugs are clean and sound, ditto the coil stalks, coils, loom connectors, etc, and then making sure that there is fuel pressure at about the right numbers (while driving!, not while sitting in the garage free blipping it), then maybe you go looking at AFM voltages, manually testing the igniter, putting a scope on the CAS, etc. Then you're into pulling the injectors for a spray pattern look-see and perhaps a clean, squirting carby cleaner around the inlet manifold looking for leaks, and all the more annoying and esoteric, but still common as muck faults that these things have. I wouldn't ever bother looking at the trims, as they are usually bullshit on these old clunkers anyway.
    • Jousting sticks! Tell 'im he's dreamin!
    • GTR owners are wankers - 2025
×
×
  • Create New...