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Stagea Manual Conversion Guide


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I bought my car when S2 Stageas were not available in Australia. I've done a fair amount of work to it already, so I didn't want to buy a stock S2 manual and have to start again. my conversion was meant to happen last year but other circumstances have come into play.

Darrin, who are Maltech? I was just going to get a local brake/clutch specialist to make one for me, but if you know where to get them for $85 can you let me know? I'll definately be interested to get one for that price (Stock Nissan ones are around $300)

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Darrin, who are Maltech? I was just going to get a local brake/clutch specialist to make one for me, but if you know where to get them for $85 can you let me know? I'll definately be interested to get one for that price (Stock Nissan ones are around $300)

www.maltech.com.au

Or this is one of their ads on NS, plus Performancewise on the site can arrange

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=228459

When ordering, he will need to know waht master ans which slave is used, aswell as the direct the line comes out of the master, which for a r34 GTT one they come out the bottom. Some other skyline masters come out the side.

Just give him call to order

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There will be a few plugs not used which are below the battery, this was the wiring for the auto control. The only two that are used are the one at the top, which you just put a jumper in (two pin plug) which is the starter inhibit. and the grey one below it which you use three pins, one for supply to your neutral and reverse switches and the return from your tranny switches, If you need some pics, should be able to help out.

If you added the loom from the manual to the existing wiring, it will have all the plugs for oil pressure, knock sensors etc, which might explain the left over plugs.

no, they dont

If you lay the manual and auto harness side by side

RIght where the alternator branches out (or maybe the starter) there are 4 plugs on the auto version,

i removed the auto to put in the manual like i always do, and im missing a few plugs.

WHo needs sensors anyways

and yes, pics woudl be great

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if i can get a pic of hte three wire setup he did, ill be done with the wiring

my tranny is back in, all i have left is pedals, i had to wait so oi can buy some more hole saws

it shoudl be done tomorrow

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so where do these wires go to?

the neutral, power, and reverse

BTW if you dont bridge that connection, the engine just turns over constantly lol

Also, an RB26DETT Clutch master cylinder WILL NOT WORK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

you need an RB20, or RB25 clutch master cylinder, the 26 has a booster thing on it, and it wont fit...luckily i found one at a local shop for 3,000 yen

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You have two switches on the gearbox, two wires for each. Connect one wire from each switch to the power pin in the plug, then the other two wires coming back from the switches go to the reverse and neutral pins.

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yeah I think (going by how most of the people here have done the conversion) you'd be better off and cheaper to source the parts seperately here is Australia due to the freight costs in getting it all back here. Probably just use the Yahoo auctions to find a centre console! Which looks like it might become easier now

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my gtr master cylinder worked fine if u cut a 4' hole in the firewall and recess the booster, sure is nice to have vacuum assisted clutch when using a super heavy clutch :closedeyes:

same as autech is how i did mine, except mine looks a damn sight neater than the autech hackjob i seen

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i didnt move my brake booster at all, it fits fine just like the autech. i got a photo somewhere ill have to try and dig up :bunny:

the vacuum assist part is recessed 40mm into the firewall so only the master itself sticks out next to the brake booster

Edited by overpowered
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but hten the pedal would be too close right?

i dunno, the 260rs pedal doesnt really fit perfect, i had to kind of make it work with some spacers and stuff

thats the thing.. i got a gtr master and vacuum assist setup and a 260rs pedal and pedal box, so that means the pedal is meant to be recessed in 40mm like the autech (same as gtr's as well) and why yours infact needs spacers to make up the extra 40mm :bunny:

my pedals line up spot on as they should

Edited by overpowered
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Piss!!!

that explains it!!

SO i need to get an R33 pedal then....

i hate being the only person on base that has done this, noone knows anything.

And the shop i go to has never done one either lol

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