Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well ... after travelling with the 19's for a while, l started to get itchy feet (no pun) and looked into something bigger.

After a few trips to a few different retailers about and trying on 20's from a mates car (& feeling ride quality!!), l quickly swapped the 16's back on (as 19's were sold) and found myself pondering what to do.

Anyway, long story short, l've ended up going smaller, and now have some black TE37 look 18's on my car. Must say, l get about 65km's per tank more by having rims only 1" smaller, and with current fuel prices that can only be a good thing!! :ermm:

anyway, enough rambling, here's the pics!!! :D:O

fuzz12qu.th.jpg fuzz26pd.th.jpg fuzz30lr.th.jpg fuzz40kb.th.jpg

Edited by -FUZZY-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125104-my-new-shoes/
Share on other sites

damn that looks tough. OMG.

REALLY big fan of the look of your whole car. Thats the scheme i want on my 31GTS. If it looks half as good on it as it does on your stag, ill be a happy, happy, man.

Good job, brilliant taste. Just needs panda eyelids.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125104-my-new-shoes/#findComment-2315361
Share on other sites

BTW did your Varbon hood came with the car when you bought it? Is it a wet carbon or a dry one?
Bonnet is just painted black. Looked into CF bonnets, and couldn't find any to fit a S1 Stagea, and based on prices of R32/3/4's it was going to get to expensive for a daily.
how much for the rims then??? smile.gif and are they genuine volks?

can u get a better photo in the light so we can actually see the rims properly?

Rims were $1650 .. are just copies. Same as the cf bonnet, couldn't find genuine's in black with same width, and new was more than l was prepared to pay, as looking into getting a new "project car" soon so money could go to that. I'll see what l can do bout pics tomorrow!! ;)

Does that front bumper actually have any holes in it?

What alex said. The Charge speed kit just sits over the top of the stock bars.

Edited by -FUZZY-
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125104-my-new-shoes/#findComment-2315679
Share on other sites

Bonnet is just painted black. Looked into CF bonnets, and couldn't find any to fit a S1 Stagea, and based on prices of R32/3/4's it was going to get to expensive for a daily.

Rims were $1650 .. are just copies. Same as the cf bonnet, couldn't find genuine's in black with same width, and new was more than l was prepared to pay, as looking into getting a new "project car" soon so money could go to that. I'll see what l can do bout pics tomorrow!! ;)

What alex said. The Charge speed kit just sits over the top of the stock bars.

What brand are the rims and where did you get them from??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125104-my-new-shoes/#findComment-2315879
Share on other sites

Anyway, long story short, l've ended up going smaller, and now have some black TE37 look 18's on my car. Must say, l get about 65km's per tank more by having rims only 1" smaller, and with current fuel prices that can only be a good thing!! :wave:

you're not serious?? surely that would have more to do with your speedo guage being out due to bigger wheels than actual fuel economy, or am i just stating the obvious?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125104-my-new-shoes/#findComment-2327305
Share on other sites

larger rims also increase inertia, as most of the mass is on the outside of the wheel. this means it takes more energy to get up to speed, but also you retain that energy a little longer, making it harder to stop as well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125104-my-new-shoes/#findComment-2327390
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean I can be OCD'y but this is really over the top. At that point why not just run a full wideband fuel controller? Especially if you run 3 widebands. The system works pretty well, which is trimming low load stuff to be within a few percent of the base map. Pre-engine _change_ the base map was only 1-2% off, depending on ambient temp, elevation, etc. Under load the LS is really very straightforward to tune, enough that a wideband closed loop would be overkill. If I really cared (and I hope I don't) I can always just go back to the MAF system the car actually came with. Which does all those nice calculations for me (temp, altitude, etc), now that you can buy 102mm MAF's that do not cause restrictions.
    • Good afternoon Team , just a quick update on performance mods  Current Mods list (Installed) HKS - Power Editor (Came with the car) looks to be some kind of boost controller RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Cat Back  RV37 Skyline 400R (SKYLINE) | FUJITSUBO  - Front Pipe AMS  - INFINITI Q50/Q60 RED ALPHA COLD AIR INTAKE KIT AMS  - Performance Heat Exchanger Intercooler Not Yet AMS Alpha Performance Full Race Down Pipes  - to be installed in May 
    • I'd be installing 2x widebands and using the NB simulation outputs to the ECU.
    • Nah, it's different across different engines and as the years went on. R32 era RB20, and hence also RB26, the TPS SWITCH is the idle command. The variable resistor is only for the TCU, as you say. On R33 era RB25 and onwards (but probably not RB26, as they still used the same basic ECU from the R32 era), the idle command is a voltage output of close to 0.45V from the variable resistor.
    • It's actually one of the worst bits of Nissan nomenclature (also compounded by wiring diagrams when the TCU is incorporated in ECU, or, ECU has a passthru to a standalone TCU).... the gripe ~ they call it the TPS, but with an A/T it's actually a combined unit ...TPS (throttle position switch) + TPS (throttle position sensor).... ..by the looks of it (and considering car is A/T) you have this unit... https://www.amayama.com/en/part/nissan/2262002u11 The connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit, is the TPS (throttle position sensor) ...only the TCU reads this. The connector on the unit body, is the TPS (throttle position switch) ...ECU reads this. It has 3 possible values -- throttle closed (idle control contact), open (both contacts open, ECU controls engine...'run' mode), and WOT (full throttle contact closed, ECU changes mapping). When the throttle is closed (idle control contact), this activates what the patent describes as the 'anti stall system' ~ this has the ECU keep the engine at idling speed, regardless of additional load/variances (alternator load mostly, along with engine temp), and drives the IACV solenoid with PWM signal to adjust the idle air admittance to do this. This is actually a specific ECCS software mode, that only gets utilized when the idle control contact is closed. When you rotate the TPS unit as shown, you're opening the idle control contact, which puts ECCS into 'run' mode (no idle control), which obviously is a non-sequitur without the engine started/running ; if the buzzing is coming from the IACV solenoid, then likely ECCS is freaking out, and trying to raise engine rpm 'any way it can'...so it's likely pulling the valve wide open....this is prolly what's going on there. The signal from the connector on the flying lead coming out of the unit (for the TCU), should be around 0.4volts with the throttle closed (idle position) ~ although this does effect low throttle shift points if set wrong, the primary purpose here is to tell TCU engine is at idle (no throttle demand), and in response lower the A/T line pressure ... this is often described as how much 'creep' you get with shifter in D at idle. The way the TPS unit is setup (physically), ensures the idle control contact closes with a high margin on the TPSensor signal wire, so you can rotate the unit on the adjustment slots, to achieve 0.4v whilst knowing the idle control contact is definitely closed. The IACV solenoid is powered by battery voltage via a fuse, and ground switched (PWM) by the ECU. When I check them, I typically remove the harness plug, feed the solenoid battery voltage and switch it to ground via a 5watt bulb test probe ; thing should click wide open, and idle rpm should increase... ...that said though, if it starts & idles with the TPS unit disconnected, and it still stalls when it gets up to operating temperature, it won't be the IACV because it's unused, which would infer something else is winking out...  
×
×
  • Create New...