Jump to content
SAU Community

Motul Oil – What Weight?

Nismo_Boy

By Nismo_Boy,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

Topaz Grand Master

Topaz

Posted
Posted

Maybe we need one of those polls?

Those UK guys are mostly selecting 15W oils? Its a cold country, wouldn't they need the W viscosity to beas low as possible??

Theres more articles on Oil Viscosity too

http://auto.indiamart.com/auto-consumables...-viscosity.html

http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm (Theres too much info here, seriously)

That second article says that W stands for Winter? and not Weight!

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
yes, oils reccomended in the UK is of little relevance here to our conditions. nismo boy, i would reccomend Motul 8100 10W40 for your 100K RB20DET.

Did you check the link? I find it interesting the commonly used visc is quite thick for such cold conditions where people are carking it left right and centre from their <30degree summer heat waves. lol

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
yes, oils reccomended in the UK is of little relevance here to our conditions. nismo boy, i would reccomend Motul 8100 10W40 for your 100K RB20DET.

how can you say that the only difference between here and there is cold start after that the temp and condition the oil see are identical as both motors (here and US) will run at ~80deg and hp is hp no matter where you make it. The fact that even in cold countries like japan and england they run thicker oil was an eye opener and the fact the NISMO in japan recommend a 1060w was very interesting. As i think NISMO know how to build and run high performance motor.

pete

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

I dont think a standard engine running without an oil cooler is going to run the same oil temp with -5degrees ambient as it will with 40 degrees ambient. I could be wrong. Nismo reccomend their own brand of oil (of course) 10W60 for a GTR getting some track use I'm not aware of what they reccomend for an RB20DET. Nismo didn't build the RB20DET, nissan did and they reccomend a 7.5W30. Now given it's no longer anywhere near new I would say a 10W40 is a good choice. The wider the spread between the first number and second means the oil must contain a lot of additives. I'm no oil expert but I understand enough to know that that is not a good thing. I have used 10W60 without problem, but unless you are driving on track without an oil cooler (or on road getting very high temp) a 60 is not needed. It's just my opion though so no need to go nuts with the sarcasm about nismo knowing how to build a motor. Of course they do, and I've been to nismo omori factory in japan to see it with my own eyes. and like most companies they push their own product.

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
I dont think a standard engine running without an oil cooler is going to run the same oil temp with -5degrees ambient as it will with 40 degrees ambient. I could be wrong. Nismo reccomend their own brand of oil (of course) 10W60 for a GTR getting some track use I'm not aware of what they reccomend for an RB20DET. Nismo didn't build the RB20DET, nissan did and they reccomend a 7.5W30. Now given it's no longer anywhere near new I would say a 10W40 is a good choice. The wider the spread between the first number and second means the oil must contain a lot of additives. I'm no oil expert but I understand enough to know that that is not a good thing. I have used 10W60 without problem, but unless you are driving on track without an oil cooler (or on road getting very high temp) a 60 is not needed. It's just my opion though so no need to go nuts with the sarcasm about nismo knowing how to build a motor. Of course they do, and I've been to nismo omori factory in japan to see it with my own eyes. and like most companies they push their own product.

beer baron i think you should have a read of the uk thread as the guy OILMAN knowledge of oils is like Sydneykids knowledge of rb30's

the nissan oil is recommend for a std engine and road use

the nismo would be aimed a performance evironment and is more revalent to most uses in referrence to the weights used.

I would just say the imformation is of no use to us as the outside temp is slighty colder as the motors temp are all the same (thermostat control the major part of operating temp and 5 to 10deg outside temp will have little bearing on the oil)

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Do remember the 7.5w30 is decided upon for power levels and economy reasons. When upping the power one really should also improve the film strength, higher visc and synth oils do this.

yes, hence the 10W40. :(

discopotato03 Grand Master

discopotato03

Posted
Posted

Hi Cubes , an interesting read . I'll have to do a search on Silkoline oils as its not one I'm familiar with . I know Just Jap sell Motul but not sure if its commonly available everywhere . It sounds like we could use a list of REAL synthetic engine oils so as not to get fudged by the marketing mongrels and their shh - its really mineral oil with 11 more herbs and spices ...

The Charade research octane lump has a gut full of 10-40 (I think) Magnatek because I always wanted to try something less viscous than 20W50 particularly in the winter . It is better for cold starts (rattles stop sooner) and no longer feels like its towing the car behind when I take off at 3 in the morning .

Sigh - I had thought that Castrol "synthetic" 10-60 was a real synthetic but that "Oilman" doesn't seem to think so or do I have that wrong ?

Actually I've been wondering a lot of late if lower viscosity oils with good "shear strength" can be used maybe we can run cooler thermostats to keep chamber / valve / bore / ring / piston temps down far enough to hold off detonation / allow a bit more advance under load .

Food for though cheers A .

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

There's quite a few oils available here in Adelaide

Apart from the usual there's:

ELF Synthetic

Nulon Synthetic :S

Fuchs (makers of Sikoline)

Might have to look in to the Sikoline stuff and see what its worth.

I really only want to pay $50 for 5ltrs, so really what ever fits the bill.

At the moment its Motul 8100 5w40 which is nice but I would prefer an oil with a little higher HTHS.

I'm almost tempted to see how the Mobil 1 15w50 runs as the running-in oil was fine (20w50) and I don't see temps below 10degree's so it should be fine. :)

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lub...il_1_15W-50.asp

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_inter...60_B1968_05.pdf

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
guys i have found my local Repco store sells the Motul 300v 15-50 100%ester oil for around $94 per 5 litres, so that will be my next oil to try in the GTR as its time for a synthetic (run in period complete).

Are you sure 5ltrs?

Motul 300v only comes in 4 and 2ltr bottles. So you must buy 6litres for a service one time then only 4 another.

pnblight Mentor

pnblight

Posted
Posted
Are you sure 5ltrs?

Motul 300v only comes in 4 and 2ltr bottles. So you must buy 6litres for a service one time then only 4 another.

LOL you know i didn't even look to close at volume marking i just read the label and details on the oil to confirm it was the stuff the oilman(ukgtr forum) was talking about as i wasnt there to buy it ( at Repco) was helping a friend with the bosch part numbers for the z32afm and plug when i notice the motul.

And i will need more than a 2 and 4 litre bottle as my GTR run like 9 plus litres now with custom sump and oil cooler, so oil changes won't be cheap but if it looks after the internals it will be well worth it, as forged internals, nismo bearing and the works dont come cheap so it would be silly to skip on the oil.

Anyone running the 300v 15w50 in oz? thoughts etc?

pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • DraftySquash
      Help Understand GTT Boost Setup

      By DraftySquash · Posted

      Hi everyone, Apologies in advance if this feels like a topic covered multiple times. I'm only asking because some of the old topics I found are missing images now. I'm in the process of getting a manual boost controller (BC). Nothing fancy, just getting a manual one for now as I don't plan to go crazy with it and would not go over 10 PSI. My car is not jacked up on boost steroids to do crazy numbers. I want to understand the OEM setup of the boost solenoid and vacuum lines on the R34 GTT so I know what needs to be changed when I do install the BC. I sketched the current setup to the best I could see and it's on the diagram attached. If the boost controller 'Wastegate Arrow' goes from nipple 1 to 2. My understanding is that the red vacuum line's "F" connector-end should be connected to BC nipple #2? Nipple #1 is meant to have the "pressure source" so what vacuum line would that be? Is it the green vacuum line?  From what I have read here, the OEM boost solenoid is not used at this point. So that can come out and then I can just plug the nipple that usually connects to the blue vacuum line?  So would the final setup look something like this?   Thanks in advance. I don't want to already be knee-deep into pulling out vacuum lines before understanding this. I'm a noob when it comes to boost setups so trying to learn as I go.
    • GTSBoy
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Initial/early bite is a feature of.....generic pads. Things that work cold. Just put Bendix Ultimate in it. If you don't like them, it's only $3.50 wasted and an hour to change them. I've been using Intima SR, and they seem to be a good performance pad. Street friendly and able to take at least a little beating.
    • corey2
      Hello from Sydney

      By corey2 · Posted

      This is my first post after registering.. I hope i can find useful resources on this forum. Great forum. 
    • Vee37
      Brake pad Compound suggestion

      By Vee37 · Posted

      As I implied in my post, I have NO idea what the were. But in case I didn't make it clear, the way they performed was brilliant; whatever the brand was. I think it was the compound that made the difference. And if they were Bendix, then sign me up, I want another set. I did drive down mount Ousley (just outside of the Gong) a few times, and they showed no untowards performance.   Its not the low dust that I am looking for NOW. At the time I needed low dust, but now I have no issues with dust but want the initial/early bite of the pads that were used. Yeah, the early cold squeal may of been due to a missing shim or such.  And to repeat, its not the low dust I am seeking, its the initial bite of the pads and increase in bite as  the warmed up during each breaking. As soon as I let off, I don't remember the breaks being extra sticky if I used them again soon after. But I also did not test that theory.   Thanks for the recommendation, But I would prefer to choose something specifically with the behaviour I described.   I assume that they didn't use the default compound off the shelf, as we discussed the dust issue at length. And the early squeal when cold, I have seen the sound is more of an issue with some pad compounds. Mostly ceramic, which also are said to produce less dust.
    • MBS206
      🚨 Need Advice! Overcharged for Engineering Report 🚨

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Well, in 2007 he must have been charging about $1800 an hour. He only looked at the car for 5 minutes. And another 4 to write the report wrong, and another minute to correct it. Mind you, this was for a car that was: Stock engine, fmic (hole in drivers guard), all alloy intake and custom air box, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, lowered, and a set of 17" Advans (255/40/17 rear and 235/45/17 front). It was nothing crazy. The blue slipper wanted the "hole in the guard" engineered. But that was because he got the shits that I wouldn't "relocate the battery from the boot, back to the factory position in the engine bay"... In an R33 GTST...     Also for emissions, E85, and don't go wild on timing. It's amazing how the closer you get ignition timing towards max torque, the last couple of degrees really throw NOx counts right up. And for the huge increase in emissions, it's only a small increase in torque.
×
×
  • Create New...