Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 116
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

1984 R30 GT - Lowered(heaps), 17" Advanti Vallens, POD filter, fresh paint, extractors, full 2 1/4 exhaust, momo wheel/pedals and racepro seats.

1989 R32 GTS - Nothing done to it. Got it for real cheap and I am going to make money off it.

  • 1 month later...

1992 R32 GTS type-s

RB20DE

HKS pod filter, CAI, Coby extractors, 2.5" stainless steel exhaust system with 1 resonator and stainless steel muffler

Front strut Bar, lowered 2" (was 4" damn defects), 18" chrome vault savannah wheels, falken 215/18/35 tyres

shit loads of interior and stereo shit

:)

sorry, i didnt mean it in a "ADD OTHERS" kinda way. just enquiring to see how many more GTS's are on this site.

But if u wanna add them u can put like R31 Exec or Ti, i dunno all the models.

Can anyone clarify that my info on the badges was correct?

Thanks

Dave

  • 1 month later...

this will be a great chance for me to find out if there's ANYONE out there who drives the same model as i do...

my girl's a black 1992 2-door R32 Skyline GTS25 with RB25DE engine. Since day 1 when I took over, i have gotten 2.5 inch exhuast, air pod and side skirts for her. Lots of mates mistaken her for a GTR but the stock 4 studs wheels are a giveaway. She handles very well and is extremely fun to drive. Been tempted many times by mates to drop in a RB24DET inside but naaahhh... what's the point?... i like NA anyway ...

anyone of you guys own this model as well?

cheers

genesis

. . .

To Be Or Not To Be ... I Chose To Be A LineSter...

this will be a great chance for me to find out if there's ANYONE out there who drives the same model as i do...

Hey genesis,

I've got the same model also, except mines a 1991 and is Gunmetal Grey... I've replaced the exhaust with a 2 1/2 inch system including Kobe extractors. Also swapped the hubs, brakes and diff, to GTSt spec (5 stud) and I've put 17's on it. When I get the money together I'll be dropping a RB25DET into it, and she should really hammer!

Ryno

hey Ryno,

good to hear that there's someone out there who owns the same model as well. i have been 'harassed' many times by my mechanic to drop in a RB25DET as well but i thk i love her for the way she is.. at least for the moment.

currently looking around for mags but its hard to find ones that fits. was considering switching over to a 5 stud as well. pity that you are in NSW or else we can go for a drive together yeah ...

take care

genesis

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's odd, it works fine here. Try loading it on a different device or browser? It's Jack Phillips JDM, a Skyline wrecker in Victoria. Not the cheapest, but I have found them helpful to find obscure parts in AU. https://jpjdm.com/shop/index.php
    • Yeah. I second all of the above. The only way to see that sort of voltage is if something is generating it as a side effect of being f**ked up. The other thing you could do would be to put a load onto that 30V terminal, something like a brakelamp globe. See if it pulls the voltage away comepletely or if some or all of it stays there while loaded. Will give you something of an idea about how much danger it could cause.
    • I would say, you've got one hell of an underlying issue there. You're saying, coils were fully unplugged, and the fuse to that circuit was unplugged, and you measured 30v? Either something is giving you some WILD EMI, and that's an induced voltage, OR something is managing to backfeed, AND that something has problems. It could be something like the ECU if it takes power from there, and also gets power from another source IF there's an internal issue in the ECU. The way to check would be pull that fuse, unplug the coils, and then probe the ECU pins. However it could be something else doing it. Additionally, if it is something wired in, and that something is pulsing, IE a PWM circuit and it's an inductive load and doesnt have proper flyback protection, that would also do it. A possibility would be if you have something like a PWM fuel pump, it might be giving flyback voltages (dangerous to stuff!). I'd put the circuit back into its "broken" state, confirm the weird voltage is back, and then one by one unplug devices until that voltage disappears. That's a quick way to find an associated device. Otherwise I'd need to look at the wiring diagrams, and then understand any electrical mods done.   But you really should not be seeing the above issue, and really, it's indicating something is failing, and possibly why the fuse blew to begin with.
    • A lot of what you said there are fair observations and part of why I made that list, to make some of these things (like no advantage between the GSeries and GSeries II at PR2.4 in a lot of cases) however I'm not fully convinced by other comments.  One thing to bare in mind is that compressor flow maps are talking about MASS flow, in terms of the compressor side you shouldn't end up running more or less airflow vs another compressor map for the same advertised flow if all external environmental conditions are equivalent if the compressor efficiency is lower as that advertised mass flow takes that into consideration.   Once the intercooler becomes involved the in-plenum air temperature shouldn't be that different, either... the main thing that is likely to affect the end power is the final exhaust manifold pressure - which *WILL* go up when you run out of compressor efficiency when you run off the map earlier on the original G-Series versus G-Series II as you need to keep the gate shut to achieve similar airflow.    Also, how do you figure response based off surge line?  I've seen people claim that as an absolute fact before but am pretty sure I've seen compressors with worse surge lines actually "stand up" faster (and ironically be more likely to surge), I'm not super convinced - it's really a thing we won't easily be able to determine until people start using them.     There are some things on the maps that actually make me wonder if there is a chance that they may respond no worse... if not BETTER?!  which brings me to your next point... Why G2 have lower max rpm?  Really good question and I've been wondering about this too.  The maximum speed *AND* the compressor maps both look like what I'd normally expect if Garrett had extended the exducers out, but they claim the same inducer and exducer size for the whole range.   If you compare the speed lines between any G and G2 version the G2 speed lines support higher flow for the same compressor speed, kinda giving a pretty clear "better at pumping more air for the same speed" impression. Presumably the exducer includes any extended tip design instead of just the backplate, but nonetheless I'd love to see good pics/measurements of the G2 compressors as everything kinda points to something different about the exducer - specifically that it must be further out from the centerline, which means a lower rpm for the same max tip speed and often also results in higher pressure ratio efficiency, narrower maps, and often actually can result in better spool vs a smaller exducer for the same inducer size... no doubt partly due to the above phenomenon of needing less turbine speed to achieve the same airflow when using a smaller trim. Not sure if this is just camera angle or what, but this kinda looks interesting on the G35 990 compressor tips: Very interested to see what happens when people start testing these, and if we start getting more details about what's different.
×
×
  • Create New...