Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

If your looking for outrite pace, the GTS-T is the go. It has the RB20 RWD but only weighs 1260-1280KG depending on model age. Whereas the GTS-4 has all the 4WD gear the GTR has, with the same engine as teh GTS-T. Hence the GTS-4 weighs somwhere int he vacinity of 1460kg i think (someone correct me?). Both with the same power, obviously the GTS-T will be quicker.

However they do have the ATTESA 4WD system which would be handy. I think a GTS-4 with an RB26DETT conversion would be the go! heheh. Then again you mayaswell buy a real GTR tho.

The 33 weight diff from the GTS-t to the GTS25T-4 isnt quite so big, however the additional weight is there. Hence they are a little slower again than the RWD counterpart.

Really its up to what you want outa the car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313411
Share on other sites

With the R32 GTS4 Nissan realised spec-wise it was abit too close to the GTR so in the R33 (and R34) they decided to make the GTS-4 non-turbo.

i wasnt aware the r34 series had a gtt-4 if thats wat its called :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313476
Share on other sites

comparing 32 gtst and gts4:

gts4 can get off the line much faster by lauching at 6000 rpm.

200kg increase means slower top end.

The gtst will catch up to the gts4 over a 1/4 mile.

The gtst has a more chuckable feel and more fun to drive.

Bang for buck a gts4 with rb25 conversion is the goods.

Hard to find a 32gtst in good condition let alone a rare gts4

I am extremely biased to the gtst.

I have a mate who owns a gts4 and it has f**k all torque low in the rev range like all rb20s but its much worse.

Drifting (speaks for itself)

plus I cant believe I am typing this on a Friday night but Ive got that bad cold goin around

anyway I recommend the gtst unless you plan on spending $$$$ on upgrades

My 25 cents

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2313760
Share on other sites

Only R32s came out with a turbo 4wd GTSt model, the latter ones (r33 and R34) were both non-turbo!

As Tuffr32 said, ultimately a stock GTS4 will be slower than a GTSt because of its weight.

Also, it will be VERY VERY hard to find a good condition GTS4 in Australia, as they are much less common than GTSt. And then it will be worth more than a GTSt, something like $16k or $18k.

If you are interested in making an r32 GTS4 RWD, just take the ATTESA fuse out rig up a switch in the wiring. Its that easy.

Rhett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2316174
Share on other sites

I have a gts4 and its great :P it is a bit heavy to be nice and chuckable, but its still pretty nimble and lots of fun. Finding parts takes a bit longer, but thats always the trade off when you have something special.

Its not in the best nic, but I am slowly doing it up, should be a good car when im finished...

If your mate wants one, I say go for it! try anything twice

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2320603
Share on other sites

As I GTS-4 owner, I thought I'd chuck my opinion in.

The GTS-4 is pretty much a compromise between a GTS-t and a GT-R.

I chose it for the handling aspect.

True, My particular car will likely never see 12's in the quarter mile, but that's not why I bought it.

For me, I get my fun from taking those corners that mates in their falcons, bogandores, magna's and Audi's slow down to a stop for.

I have fun on the twisty's on the mornington peninsula (check out the downhill at Arthurs seat, but do the uphill first, it's some scary sh!t, forget doing that with a 2wd)

The R32 GTS-t and the R32 GTS-4 are practically the same car, save the ATTESA system. If you want that system at a much lower cost (of maintence, repair and initial cost) get the GTS-4. If money is not an issue, get a GT-R, if it's a quarter mile you're after, or AWD just isn't your thing, go the GTS-t.

One other thing to remember, the most common Skylines I see are R33 GTS-t's, and why not, they're a good car. R32 GTS-t's are fairly common, followed by the GT-R's and the R34's, What I'm getting at is that R32 GTS-4's are rare. On the down side, it means some GTS-4 specific parts can be hard to find (I hear the front diff can be particularly difficult to source) To offset that, all the same GTS-T engine parts can be used, along with a host of other parts.

Also, you can install a switch that can allow Rwd operation for Dyno's, or just some Dori fun. check the group buy section.

It's all up to you in the end.

I chose the GTS-4 for the handling, at a cheaper price than a GT-R, and knowing that there are probably less than a hundred in the country.

Just figure out what you want a car to do. Are you a handling man, or do you like the extra G's of planting the pedal? Do you like to stick to the road, or are you a drifter on the streets (Particularly expensive style in Vic witht he new hoon laws though)

It's all up to you.

If you want any particular advice, or opionion, feel free to PM me.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125254-gtst-vs-gtst-4/#findComment-2321663
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Unfortunately haven’t taken pics yet after it was finished. All the edges are hemmed nicely, just had to cut holes for the gear shifter and seat bolts and seat belt bolts in the rear. The molds seem like they’re done with steam and a layer of glue on the underside to hold a bit of shape but still soft enough that it’s a good fit when it’s all pressed down.
    • When's the rear mounted turbo kit coming? Needs dose and V8 chop idle lol.
    • I was very unimpressed with how the car came up from the A pillar forward, before I hit things (twice). It all has to go. It had to go, but now it has to go... more. So we finally found the very first Shennanigans with the entirely perfectly setup engine that had no problems being pulled apart to improve on 'was perfectly fine'. Cam bearings looked a bit... stock. Which isn't entirely bad given they were stock and this is a ~20 year old engine. So new cam bearings are on the way because it's somewhat difficult to get to this stage to do it later, and it will trash the block. It was quite unusual that it wasn't done when the perfectly new-looking VCM cam was originally installed by [unknown] What IS unusual is the cam that was installed there was advanced SIX degrees. As to why there is no way to know.. however it could have been @Dose Pipe Sutututu's mate who wanted a larger cam sound but also wanted it to come on earlier to be more usable. This is my dyno sheet with the previous setup - This cam is not supposed to peak until 7000+ RPM, according to VCM. This is what lead me down the whole 'my heads/intake setup is running out of puff and can't support the cam' line of thinking to begin with. Anyway too late now - New cam is in! It could be rather funny if this smaller cam acts like a larger cam because it isn't advanced six degrees. In the spirit of everything is working amazingly - the COMP cam required no dialling in whatsoever. It was about 0.5 degrees advanced, which seems pretty bang on. Any adjustment either way would be further out. I'm told as a chain breaks in it ends up regarding back about 0.5 a degree as the chain breaks in, making it bang on. In the spirit of everything was previously working amazingly - The timing gear that was taken out turned out to be was an N-Motion double timing chain kit, with adjustable cam gear (which is how it was 6 degrees advanced) and all looks entirely perfectly new. It also had a Torrington bearing, which was one of the reasons I ended up getting the Cloyes kit which they used in the C5R 24 hour racecar - Because I couldn't confirm what was in the engine when talking to Tony Mamo. I did believe however it was a Double chain kit of some kind... but found no supporting documentation or evidence for it.
    • I recently did this to my R33 with the full set from Car Mats Direct, they can't do the vinyl anymore that's advertised on the website due to a supplier issue so I ended up with the Black Loop Pile which looks great. I went all out with rubber sound deadening sheets from Repco and also added the sound deadening foam layer option with the carpet. Makes a world of difference and got rid of all the weird smells in the 29 year old interior. It was a bit of work but I'd 100% recommend it, Car Mats Direct had awesome customer service and quick postage. Replaced my seats with some sporty ones from Autotechnia while I was at it, feels like a new car.
×
×
  • Create New...