Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey fellas,

i'm buying a modified r32 gtst soon and was wondering the requirements needed to pass for a RWC?

Engine Mods were: Custom Garrett 500HP Ball Bearing Turbo, Braided Oil and Water lines, Bosch 044 Fuel Pump, Bosch 555cc injectors, Custom Fuel Rail, Malpassi Rising Rate fuel regulator, HKS Air Pod, HKS Heavy duty actuator Valve, 3inch turbo back exhaust with Dual chamber dump pipe, Microtech LT10s computer

Apexi AVCR, stainless steel intake pipe, Hybrid Front mount intercooler, Catch Can, Exedy Heavy duty organic clutch, Lightened flywheel

Other mods: Phillips XENON headlight kit, Sony XPLOD Head Unit, Blitz Turbo Timer, Blitz Boost Gauge, Razo Gear Knob, Nismo Short Shift Kit, Momo Steering Wheel, new tyres

What modifications do they usually check for a RWC, how long does it take for the checkup and also the price to get a RWC done?

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125264-requirements-for-a-rwc/
Share on other sites

From what I can see, illegal modifications are:

Pod filter + FMIC combo, aftermarket ECU, boost controller, catch can if it vents to atmosphere.

I'll assume the Philips headlight kit complies to ADR standards so that will pass.

The boost guage might be a problem if it's mounted on the A-pillar, so will the steering wheel if any part of it is highly reflective (ie. chrome) and distracts your vision (ie. glare). Also make sure because you don't have the stock gear stick knob, that you have a sticker to indicate your gear patterns.

Apart from checking the basics such as lights, wipers, etc, they will usually check your suspension and steering bushes under the car as well, so make sure steering boots or whatever aren't cracked and so forth. They will also check for exhaust leaks and if your engine and gearbox mounts are still in good condition.

Someone else might have more information for you.

You'd be better off talking to the place thats going to do your WRC

there is such a large inconsistency with the application of the regulations that one place will pass things another wont, but pick on stuff that really shouldnt be

hey fellas,

i'm buying a modified r32 gtst soon and was wondering the requirements needed to pass for a RWC?

Strictly speaking whoever you are buying it from is supposed to supply the RWC. This can be a negotiation point, but at least make the purchase conditional on an initial RWC inspection.

i had to do organise the rwc on my r33 when i got it. it failed the first time for:

wiper blades

split muffler

rear seat not secure

compliance plate covered

wing not secure

and i have on it

atmo bov

dual stage boost controller

2 guages on a pillar

pod and fmic combo

depend where you take it really...

thanks for that guys, appreciate it.

Hey there, >_<

A roadworthy is a test of the cars ability to be driven safely...

So...brakes,tyres,wipers,lights,seat belts ,windsreen,horn,shocks,excessive oils leaks,holes in the muffler or smoke out of the rear end are basically what they look at....its not an epa test

I am a mech, and work at a roady specialist.

Most things are checked to be secured and present; ie emissions gear to appear to be present; cat, stovepipe, charcoal canister etc.

All loose items; sub, stereo etc, are to be secure, as it the battery.

They largely look at leaks, bushes, ball joints, unis, tyres, brake pads, disc rotor thickness etc.

thanks for the replies everyone. I was also wondering an estimate of how much a RWC will set me back, considering the mods?

Also, does anyone know of a mechanic that can take a look at the car on wednesday, around the Lilydale area?

cheers, miguel

Edited by Race Bred
thanks for the replies everyone. I was also wondering an estimate of how much a RWC will set me back, considering the mods?

Also, does anyone know of a mechanic that can take a look at the car on wednesday, around the Lilydale area?

cheers, miguel

The costs all depend on all the above items mentioned and there costs...ie tyres brakes windscreen etc might all need to be replaced

After the roadworthy you get a paper listing your problems and off you go to fix them

The cost of the roadworthy if i recall is about $70 but the cost to you depend on all the faults.

I believe you are given two weeks to fix them and return back to the place to re-inspect and stamp

the paper work.

Once the dates expire you need to pay the $70 again.

You might be pleasently surprised or dumbfounded on the faults and the money you need to spend to get it roadworthy.

Good Luck

Edited by 700HP-GTR33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Standard GTRs are boring and there plenty of them, do what ever you want to it and just remember nothing about them is cheap anymore and if you’re picky about how you want things done it gets even worse.    if it’s an n1 or something very limited then maybe care more about it’s heritage 
    • Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛     Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!
    • As an ex-skyline owner Going off how these things are now "modern classics", I would keep the twins and just "refresh" bits that are required for reliable power and have a car you can take out for a cruise whenever you get the itch As a idiot who cannot leave things alone Going deep into the "rabbit hole" is a easy thing to do, as previously mentioned, once you start it becomes a slippery slope, wirh lots of supporting mods, and possibly rebuilds, and unless you have a bottomless pit of funds, the car can spend most of its life sitting in the garage,  broken, waiting for parts, or building more funds For a classic like a R32 GTR Basically, a reliable OEM+ refresh, that isn't a broken garage queen, is alot better than a car that you build, then break, then fix, then break again And it isn't just the engine you need to worry about, these beasties are getting on in age, and all parts are getting, and have got, expensive, the days of picking up cheap replacement engines and other driveline parts are well and truly over The funds not spent on going a single with quality parts, and with all the other other bits required to make it happen, could be spent on refreshing alot of other parts A wise man once said "If you cannot afford 2 GTR's, you cannot afford 1", I also believe he said this about 20 years ago when you could pick up a clean R32 GTR up for around $20k My advice for a R32 GTR (the one and only true Godzilla in my mind) is to think holistically about the whole car, the body, the power train, the suspension, the brakes, and the driveline SAU is a wealth of knowledge with decades of Skyline experience,  from stock, to OEM+, to modified to varying degrees, to full on or weekend or dedicated racecars, as well as full on money pits that rarely leave their garage Treat the old girl nice and give her what she deserves, you are a lucky man to own such a classic car  
    • For that price you could buy the hypergear turbo (big fan as I run one) and the Haltech ECU..
    • +1 for the Elite 2500. Get some new knock sensors while you are at it (pretty cheap), look up the TAARKS Nissan knock sensor kit. You may also want to get new coils (R35gtr) while your at it (assuming your on stock ones), as they are a liability. Mine started right up and idled fine on the base map. Also go MAP over MAF, as said above, Haltech make this super simple right out the box. Another fanboy of DBW here, Outsider Garage from your neck of the woods make some nice conversion gear for the R33 (that’s where I got some of my gear from).
×
×
  • Create New...