Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys i need some help here

ive got cracks in my exhaust manifold (its a TRUST manifold)

does anyone know any good Zorst places that can look after me or where i can get a new manifold (Brand new one from trust is almost 4,000 dollars)????

and has anyone had similiar problems with a Stainless STeel Exhaust Manifold?????

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12528-help-cracking/
Share on other sites

I woudnt go taking it to the average exhaust shop. Take it to a business that specialises in Tig welding and can do X-ray quality welds. Any company that does pressure piping. vessels etc or boilers etc. These people are qualified welders and will be able to fusion weld your manifold, or if they need to use a filler wire they will know the correct grade filler wire, though the Japs do use grades of stainless not easily purchase in OZ. At a rate of about $50-75 / hour you should be able to get it fixed for less then $150

Most exhaust shops would fall over themselves if asked to do a purged weld that would pass a tensile test etc. Welds should be stronger then the parent metal due to the localised heat treatment around the HAZ (heat affected zone)

As for stainless manifolds being prone to cracking, well i dont totally agree with this. It may be the design , but more likely the fabrication that causes the problem.

Grab a metallurgy text, mild steel relies on large corrosion factors to get the job done, hence the wall thickness and need for multiple passes when welding.

Many grades of stainless steel offer better temp properties, lighter weight, higher tensile strengths. Remember even steam bends are by nature used in water and gas systems, with much higher pressure then an exhaust manifold, but not very high temps. Saturated steam at say 450kPa is only about 135 degrees.

Some locally made stainless exhaust manifolds made from 304 stainless (about the cheapest grade and not all that suitable for high temps over 300degrees) can have probs, but if braced should still do the job if fabricated correclty.

Stainless 321 would do the job better and is available in plate and tube so lends itslef to manifold construction, albeit at a higher cost.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12528-help-cracking/#findComment-230237
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Starting with issues 1 - 5, we have already run into a problem...!  Issue #4 contained 2x front brake calipers, instead of 1 caliper and 1x steering knuckle. Will have to call DeAgostini on Monday to sort it out. Anyway here's some photos.  Issue #1 is the front bumper, headlights and number plate. Issue #2 is the front wheel (with "We produced with spartan air." text on the centre cap!) and tyre, the front lip spoiler and cylinder head cover with ignition coils under the centre cover... which will never be seen again. Issue #3 is the bonnet and cylinder head. Issue #4 is the front strut, brake disc (with laser etched metal discs) and brake caliper. I stopped here because of the issue with the missing steering knuckle.  Next update will be #5 - #10 in a few weeks.
    • DeAgostini is one of a few companies that release quite large (the largest commonly available size actually) 1/8 scale models in a series of weekly issues over 100 - 110 instalments.  They release different models for different markets and DeAgostini Japan have release the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo last month. I've made two of these 1/8 scale sized cars (one an R35 GT-R from 2012 - 2014, the other I'm just about halfway through, a BNR34 Skyline GT-R from the 2Fast 2Furious movie) so when this R32 was announced there was no way I could ignore it as it's my favourite out of all Nissans.  Each issue costs around $20 so it costs about $2.2K when completed. I suppose it is very expensive for what it is, but the quality and details are really very good, and there are many "gimmicks" like fully functioning exterior and interior lights operated with a remote control, working steering, all doors/bonnet/boot/fuel lid open and close, the side mirrors fold in and it even has a speaker for the engine revving sounds when you turn the lights on.  Each issue comes with a magazine that tells the story of the BNR32 Skyline GT-R Nismo from the first design stages of the BNR32 to Group A homologation and the various racing version that were run in the Japanese Group A and JGTC, and Australian Group A.  So I plan to update the build in this thread 5 issues at a time.  https://deagostini.jp/r32/?srsltid=AfmBOooKjxDc4EUK2rmXqMBPgyHfFJ24s4oEPJBNpnF-lFlsRoW0PE6P
    • As per title.. has anyone used so far? Keen to hear results, comparisons. In the market for a new mani for my new turbo. Any issues cracking?
    • Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.
    • This would be a new pump with new gears. I'm just unclear on whether it's a good idea to run more oil pump flow if you don't actually need said flow. Oil level is set a minute or so after shutting off a warm engine so wouldn't the high RPM oil level in the sump end up lower all things equal? Plan is OEM clearances, main concern in my mind is whether the OEM pump can keep up with the flow requirements of any additional oil coolers.
×
×
  • Create New...