Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, please leave this thread in the forced induction section, because it relates to fabricating for a turbo install, so I'm after advice from other guys who have done something similar.

Basically, I need to bend this piece of metal. What is the best way to do it without snapping it?

It's about 2 cm thick. If I just hammered it with a sledge hammer, i think it would snap.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125386-bending-metal/
Share on other sites

as rstme said, get the oxy out and heat it up. then as you are heating have someone hitting it with a hammer. and you have to also hit it a bit where it is (right on the bend) to make sure it isn't brittle.

or, depending on how strong it has to be, you could just cut it and weld it. if it is welded with a mig it should be pretty strong.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125386-bending-metal/#findComment-2315944
Share on other sites

When you say 2cm think, do you actually mean thickness or width?

I have no idea what you would need 20mm thick steel for on a turbo setup, unless it's for flanges, spacer plates, or your making some brackets to hold a turbine off a 747? :D

If it is infact 20mm thick, as said previously, cut and weld. If it's only a few millimetres thick, either put it in a vice and hit with hammer, or take it down to a fabrication shop and get them to press bend it to required angle. Would cost you next to nothing to have it bent. Infact if they charged you, imo their tightasses ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125386-bending-metal/#findComment-2315980
Share on other sites

Ok, sorry for the confusion guys. Basically, iv'e mixed up 2 questions.

1. I'm installing a turbo and some of the brackets have problems clearing. The steel is about 5mm thick? I can't bend it with my hands. Never really thought about heating it, but I don't have an oxy torch.

2. I'm also wondering whether it's possible to bend a strut brace. Comes form an r32 and fouls slightly on the heatpad. I want to straigihten out the bends so it sits lower.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125386-bending-metal/#findComment-2316340
Share on other sites

5mm will bend with a helper, like a shifter, or if you want a fold line use 2 bits of flat each side with 2 shifters, if you want a deeper bend than that, a hammer and dolly (slightly curved block) or a vice.

Strutt braces by nature should be hard to bend, mines hollow and would be difficult to bend without a crease, a pipe bender may do it if the profile is right.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125386-bending-metal/#findComment-2318623
Share on other sites

5mm thick steel will be hard to bend by hand, i used to work with aluminium and i know from off the top of my head that steel is about 3 times as strong. Probably better off taking it somwhere and giving them a 6 pack of beers to bend it up for ya, at least that way the bend will be straight and be able to get the perfect angle you wish to achieve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125386-bending-metal/#findComment-2318751
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Reading your posts Josh, sometimes I feel like I've gone in a time machine back to the 90's when everyone was doe-eyed and figuring things out for the first time.  I've lost track of how many single turbo GTR's I've seen on track that haven't burnt down lol. Everything has been figured out a long time ago. These things are at the point now where its essentially turn-key to go single turbo. 
    • Among other things yes. Making sure to either use an oil pressure regulator or the right restrictor size for your oil pump/range of oil viscosities you intend to run, making sure you plumb the lines correctly, turbo should be placed such that it siphons properly even when the water pump isn't turning so you don't boil coolant in the turbo after shutdown, oil return should be low resistance and also preferably picking the one that is most likely to return to the pickup as opposed to some other irrelevant part of the pan. It's far from impossible to figure this out but I have seen people really, really struggle and if that's the case it's easier to just take the path of least resistance. To me, bolt-on twin turbos are a fixed cost whereas single turbo is almost unbounded.
    • Latest round of updates on the car. I purchased and installed a SWS clutch slipper to help with 60ft times and got some second-hand good condition 275/40R17 Hoosier DR2 radials. Test and tune in November showed the tyres were an upgrade over my over 15 year old mickey Thompson's and I got a 1.8 second 60ft and pb et of 11.71 but even then, that run wasn't great due to rain and driver error (the event got called off 10 minutes later fast forward to the weekend just gone 25th of Jan and there was finally a break in the weather to let racing happen. The first run the track was slippery and only managed a 12.1@129 Second run the track was better and got a new pb et and mph: 11.54@131   Lith and I then worked out that I installed the previously mentioned clutch slipper incorrectly and its never been working, and I had just been dumping the clutch the entire time, we also noticed it was on street boost and not race boost. So I lined up for a third run with the car turned up in the first two gears, but the passengers side axle objected to clutch dumps and left the chat which stopped my weekend.   so there will be another attempt in the future once I replace the tyres as they rubbed and are stuffed now. but a low 11 should be on the cards.
    • Ceramic coating and heat shielding, you mean?
    • Turbos don't require pulling the motor apart so that's "easier". I would recommend the Nismo R3 turbos instead if you want to do stock twin turbo. It doesn't make as much power as the 2530s but it's only like ~50 whp off the mark and should have better response (ball bearing CHRA, slightly smaller turbo). A local that went with a Garrett G30 and 6boost manifold recently nearly burned his car to the ground after the hood insulator started melting and and burning so if you go single turbo I recommend doing a lot of research and validation work to make sure you don't do the same.
×
×
  • Create New...