Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

For sale: R32 GTS-T Type M

Asking Price: $14,500ono OPEN TO OFFER'S

Killometer's: 62,000 on the clock

Manual or Automatic transmission: Manual

Engine Type: RB20DET

Modifications:

Original Hybrid GT spec intercooler (Not a copy)

Apexi Super induction POD filter

Turbo Timer

full 3 inch turbo back exhaust system with CES dump-pipe and Hi-flow cat, 5' tip.

Wolf 3d ECU

Boost controller

GTR injectors flowed and tested

Wallbro 500hp fuel pump

14psi

Pager Alarm with remote start

Interior

Clarion 4x50 watt headunit

6' splits in the front

6' speakers in the rear

2x JL audio subs in custom boot install and 2 x 4ch amps for subs and speakers.

Interior is in great condition except for passanger seat has a rip in the melways holder and center dash air con vent is broken.

Road Worth Certificate: Yes

Registration:Rego till December

Crash History: No Accident History - Inspection Welcome Had the car RACV checked when I bought it, report showed no major accident history, no rust, chassis was dead straight.

Other Comment's about the vehicle:

Bought the car stock, all work has been done by Sabbadin automotive. All this car need's is a bigger turbo (Hi-flow or similar) and she will be good for over 200rwkw reliably

Car also has new exhaust/turbo manifold gasket.

RACV check showed the car and motor to be in great condition.

Contact detail's - VIA PM or in the Thread my number.

zou747111ct.jpg

zou74793ug.jpg

zou74787il.jpg

zou74776my.jpg

zou74768sf.jpg

zou74749vc.jpg

zou74738xe.jpg

zou74728dv.jpg

picture0489lz.jpg

picture0393ph.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/125452-fs-r32-gts-t-type-m-modified/
Share on other sites

No sorry need to sort out family buisness first then eventually want to upgrade to GTR but won't be for awhile.

Been instucted to hold on to the car for the time being untill some things are settled.

Will keep the for sale thread up because I could find out within the next day or so, so no point in deleting the forsale thread.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
    • Silly question, as I bet you've checked already, but the motor turns over by hand yes? I suspect Neil has a spare starter, though if not, I believe I have a spare R33 (or two) starter.
    • Yeah just run one of those posts to the Link like GTSBoy said. From google it looks like a "mishimoto boost controller" is a manual boost controller. Since you already have the link just buy any MAC valve and plumb it in where the mishimoto is now. Wires to the solenoid should come from the Link's / standard loom boost control wiring (I guess you have an r32, not sure if it is gtst or gtr, if it is GTR where is a 2 pin connector near the engine bay fuse box/injector resistor for that purpose, assuming the standard boost controller is gone)  
    • No. The ECU's hose is for a connetcion between the plenum (assuming single throttle body, not ITBs) and the ECU's internal MAP sensor. This is the primary load measurement of the ECU - so you need to get this one right. This has NOTHING to do with the boost contol. The wastegate also needs to see a boost signal - but it is actually far better for it NOT TO COME FROM THE PLENUM (again, assuming single TB, and not ITBs). This should come from the turbo's compressor housing (assuming there is a nipple on there, which there might well not be), or on the boost pipe somewhere between the turbo and the TB. On the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler is usually most convenient. The boost controller is then located between that boost source and the wastegate, ACCORDING TO THE CORRECT PLUMBING DRAWING FOR THAT BOOST CONTROLLER. There is no general diagram or instruction that will be correct for every case. Then the other ports on the plenum are for purposes such as Duncan described. If the boost controller has an internal MAP sensor, for a boost display, etc, then it will want to be hooked up there, alongside the ECU and the FPR.
×
×
  • Create New...