Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sydneykid et al may be able to answer this...

When measuring the pressure drop accross an intercooler how do you determine the drop from restriction vs. drop from thermal efficiency? i.e. as the air is cooled there is a reduction in volume -> less pressure.

Is it just a given that on the bench there is only a minor heat loss from radiation so it doesn't factor in?

Just wondering....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/12554-intercooler-theory-101/
Share on other sites

Density is a product of temperature and pressure. The whole idea of an intercooler is to remove heat from the air, making it more dense.

My rough calculation is for every 1 degree drop in temp. there is a 0.1 psi decrease in pressure. If there's anyone out there who has done fluid dynamics recently (it was a while ago for me :P) they may know better. In this thread Sydneykid had tested a 36 degree temp. drop across a cooler. This would result in a calculated 3.6 psi drop. Using 8 psi = 5% power then 3.6 psi would be a whole 4 kw (std RB25DET). Doesn't seem right. :uhh:

Can someone enlighten me as to the relationship between density and power???

:)

Based on my memory of thermodynamics (its been about 3 years) the equation is something like T2/T1 = P2/P1 ^(1-r/r) with r being a gas constant based on density, which should be easy for air.

I dont even think this equation will work as i suspect you will need the flow rate, and the equivelant Reynolds number (heat exchangers require turbulent flow for max effeciency, a reynolds number exceeding 2000 is generally considered turbulent. Hence the construction of the baffles in the IC, also to maximise surface area)

I think pressure drop from temp differential is negligible when looking at the total pressure drop across the heat exchanger. we dont consider it when sizing them at work, and we deal with some pretty large units that use phase change, ie steam to condensation to maximise effeciency.

... youve now ruined my weekend, as im now curious myself, and ill have to work it out.

Interesting...

The colder air 'leaving' the intercooler is definately 'slower', kinetically, than the air traveling from turbo to intercooler. As such the shortest pipe needs to be the interccoler to plenum one. It is therfore at least being 'slowed' at an atomic level' as heat energy is taken out/lost from the system.

I am not sure if the same principle can be applied to intercoolers but, in an exhaust situation, thermal shielding adn trapping the heat engery in the pipe increases substancially the speed of the exhaust gas exiting the engine.

the paradox would be that hot air is faster to get from 'a' to 'b' and yet cold air is better for combustion.

At some point there is less benifit from a colder intake charge then there is from keeping the air speed up.

Don't know if this is right but, someone want to comment?

I guess what I'm really saying is that to get an accurate idea of the efficiency of an intercooler you would have to measure pressure drop both on the bench (no cooling air flow) and installed (with cooling air flow).

For example:

You bench test a cooler and get a 3 psi drop. This drop would be due to constriction of airflow.

Then say, you test it "in situ"and get a 3 psi drop. This would indicate poor cooling.

This is an extreme example I know. But from it we can see that you would want as big a split as possible between bench and installed.

Any comments?

rev210, I would have thought that getting the air as cold as possible, i.e. dense, would overide how quickly the air gets through the pipe (let pressure differential get it there).

As I understand it power is directly proportional to density of the charge. 1% more dense=1% more power.

Interesting discussion.

I have always wondered about the pressure drop across the intake pipework, compared to the pressure drop across the exhaust. Ignoring the slight extra mass due to the addition of fuel, the mass flow should very nearly be the same.

But the exhaust temperature will be a lot higher though.

Does a foot of intake pipe have the same pressure drop as a foot of exhaust pipe, if the diameters are the same ? The same number of air molecules are going down the pipe per second.

The same thing must happen in an intercooler, even though the air shrinks as it gets cooler, the same number of air molecules must come out that go in. So the air will slow down, but surely the denser air will have more drag.

So maybe it ballances out, high velocity thin hot air will have the same drag (and pressure drop) as low velocity cool dense air ? ? ?

hmm another can of worms.

Ignoring all other factors, if we consider that;

Total Pressure=Dynamic ("moving")+Static pressure (not "moving")

then I guess the air after the cooler must be going faster. How density affects this I don't know. I guess that's why the AFM is measuring mass as this is the constant.

Testing in situ will be difficult, as you would really want to know the mass flow rate of air passing thru the cooler as the cooling medium, and its upstream & downstream temperatures. I suppose you could log the ambient temp on the day and the speed of the car. Making sure the air hitting the face of the cooler passes thru the core instead of around would be another factor. It sure would be easier on a water to air cooler.

...and typically when talking about effeciency of heat exchangers you are talking about their ability to remove or add heat, so talking about pressure drops and effeciency as one may not really be correct. Pressure drop is one thing effeciency is another.

Thanks guys, now my head really hurts. I'll try and cut to the chase, the only real way to test an intercooler is to put it on the car and check the temperature and pressure drop across it and the power it produces. A number of testers have tried bench methods without really getting a definitive answer.

A common attempt has been to put the intercooler on a flow bench (like you would a cylinder head). That doesn't really work because a flow bench creates a vacuum on one side (of the intercooler) and measures the resistance. Since a turbo compresses the air before it goes through the intercooler this test is not truely representative of how the intercooler behaves under pressure.

Intercooler heat transfer is very difficult to measure "in the lab" there are simply too many variables. I have seen one attempt to judge intercoolers by their weight, on the assumption that the more mass they have, the more heat they can soak. This of course ignores the heat transfer ability, or scrubbing, of the inlet charge as it flows though the intercooler. Not to mention the heat transfer ability from the core to the ambient air.

Without a simple and effective method of measuring the true worth of an intercooler I have resorted to experience and real world results. So we use a standard R33 GTST intercooler for outputs up to 200 rwkw (max), up to 300 rwkw we use a standard R33 GTR intercooler and over 300 rwkw we use a Trust tube and fin. Since most of our work is for circuit race or road rally (targa) conditions, we have the luxury of basically ignoring bar and plate intercoolers. This makes the choices much simpler.

Hope that adds to the discussion.

Originally posted by Roy

.... Pressure drop is one thing effeciency is another.

I was wondering if this would be a way to measure the efficiency. i.e. comparing bench vs. installed pressure drop (...at a constant/given pressure on the "in" side of the cooler). Or is temperature an easier way?

I guess a BFO fan infront of the cooler on a dyno would be the way to go rather than on road.

... with the war in Iraq and escalating fuel prices, i cant afford petrol anymore, so in about two weeks ill be asking the best way to calculate the calories i burn as i skip/walk/run to work.

The answer is of course a lot.

As for the pressure drop, i can understand the concen if running OE turbo, if you want to be sure that your engine is seeing say 14 psi, just connect your boost controller to a line from the manifold, not the compressor housing. This will ensure your engine sees the desired boost level.

The 2psi pressure drop may result in more work for the turbo, but i dont think the effeciency will fall away that quickly.

Plus with the airflow the OE turbo puts out, i doubt you would even be getting more than max 1psi drop across a good quality intercooler. Daily variables such as humidity, temperature and latent heat in the engine bay may impact performance more.

With a data logger and some thermocouples and pressure transducers you could soon get an excellent idea of how you IC is working on the road and on the track. I need to win lotto so i can tinker in y garage.

just alittle bit O/T but what bearing does this have on cooler piping sizes? most people tend to have smaller piping on the turbo to cooler piping and say this decreases lag. but using this theory wouldnt it increase lag as the larger volume in the larger cooler to plenum piping slow down the charge even more as it expands?

or is this done because the air expands within the cooler?

ie charge has less restriction through the cold side so flow is not interupted as much..

hope that makes sense.. i just woke up :D

but if anyone can enlighten me? i'm just about to install my cooler and am trying to decide what size piping i should use, i dont want a big increase in lag but dont want to restrict any power increases. (this is on an rb20det)

Hi kwazza11, after having spent several hours with Frank Durney (ex Williams F1 Aerodynamicist) on a couple of occasions, I can confidently say "I know nothink" on this subject.

The way I look at is this, in a standard turbo Skyline GTST;

*the outlet from the turbo is small (around 45 mm)

*the adaptor pipe increases this diameter (to around 60 mm)

*the pipework from there to the intercooler is similar (63 mm)

*the outlet from the intercooler is the same (63 mm)

*the pipework increases in diameter (to around 75 mm)

*the throttle body has the largest diameter of them all (around 80 mm)

So I figure if Nissan does larger diameter the further you get from the turbo, then there must be logic in that. So I do the same. We use 63 mm from the turbo to the intercooler and 80 mm from the intercooler to the throttle body.

My "seat of the pants" comparison is that going 80 mm all the way, lowered the response of the engine to throttle inputs. As expected the dyno showed no real difference. So we stick to the Nissan "increasing diameter" theory.

I have never seen the reverse, ie; any decreases in diameter.

Hope that helps.

The way I once had it explained to me by a Garrett engineer, many years ago, and it goes something like this:

The compressor wheel accelerates the air to high velocity, where the high speed air has high kinetic energy but little actual pressure. The purpose of the scroll is to smoothly decelerate the air, where the kinetic energy turns into static pressure and increased temperature. The air is braked (slowed down).

so the cross sectional area of the scroll smoothly increases towards the outlet. The ideal situation is to continue the expansion after the scroll until the desired velocity is achieved to feed the engine plenum, or intcooler.

So the turbo exit pipe can be fairly small maybe two inch to match the turbo outlet. This should then ideally increase in diameter to match the cross sectional area of the intercooler. Usually this is not practical for space reasons.

The best shape for accelerating or decelerating air is exponential, or shaped like a trumpet. Where the initial increase is gradual, and it then flares out at an ever increasing rate. In fact many well designed intercooler end tanks look exactly like a trumpet flare, but with a rectangular outlet to match the core shape.

The whole turbo to intercooler pipe should ideally look like a continuation of this, where the deceleration rate of the air is constant between the turbo and intercooler core. This will give minimum pressure drop, and minimum pipe volume (in theory at least).

At the intercooler outlet you want to again match the core flow area to the throttle body size. This might require another exponential pipe of decreasing area. Think in terms of velocity and flow area, and treat the air very gently (happy air).

What you do not want is rapid changes in air velocity through the system, (angry air) caused by step changes in pipe size or sudden sharp turns. Again probably imposible to achieve in practice, but worth a try if you have the space and inclination to do it.

i know this might not answer any of the above questions, (maybe it will!?!?) but DAMN i found this a useful resource for understanding the differences and applications of intercoolers etc etc etc...

Also gave me a better understanding of end tank design and core finishing.

http://www.are.com.au/index.htm

funny this I actually pulled my front mount off my r32.

shock horror I hear you all say.

the proof is the car lost no powerand became a little more responsive.

no I'm not going insane the cooler is going on the cefiro and that is where the mods will occur. the r32 the driven around on .8 all teh time as my wife drives it more than me and she does not need the cooler.

I have looked at a number of light turne cars out of japan mainly drifters running extra boost may be a smal turbo up grade and the one thing they have in comon the stock cooler.

yes there might be pressure drop yes it not perfect for 40'o day at the track but for every day use its fine. the cefiro wil be coping the power up grades so the swap has occured If I told you how quick it was you wouldnt believe me I have dr drift to thank for it as well as he did most of the work and dropped the socket down the cooler pipe which lead to all this happening in the first place :D

now to sort the cooler out for the cefiro :)

shouldnt be to hard and d yes it will be painted black

meggala

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I've found some free time to write up my "build thread" which is 10% 'build' and 90% fixing problems of a skyline that has endured a lifetime of abuse. I will start with the backstory & get everyone up to speed. Ever since I was just a teenager in high school I have had a spot in my heart for the shape of an R32 rivaled only by the look of an S13, my mates & I all having overly ambitious dreams as one does about having the sickest car in the school carpark. Unfortunately I started my journey of cars down the path of the Silvia and after spending years of putting up with the underwhelming SR20 life I dipped my toes into the 1J Toyota pool for a small moment until my true compass brought me back to that incomplete dream of an R32. At this point the trawl through marketplace, gumtree, carsales etc. starts looking Aus wide for an affordable example in the current economy which was extremely barebones compared to the good old days of sub 10k cars everywhere. Out of the handful of cars in the budget at the time I settled on a 1992 R32 GTS-T that was located in Adelaide. It had caught my eyes as it was similar price to the others on the east coast and had been RB25DET NEO converted and an open door respray in a custom colour based off TH1. It was also a stand out to me because it already had some NSW registration left which saved me the hassle of getting it on the road in my state. As for mods I was told it was pretty stock other than the motor swap, a nistune to run it, and an unknown fuel pump. My first mistake was trusting the seller blindly that the car was in good condition in all aspects and decided to purchase the car unseen other than some walkaround videos & pictures as the flights down there were very expensive at the time. The price of getting it transported to my door from Adelaide from Sydney was surprisingly cheaper than the flights at the time. I was told the few issues it apparently had was only 1 speaker not working, some cracked or missing trims, and it had been rear ended at some point but had been all professionally repaired (this is all foreshadowing at this point). I paid for the car, and then booked the interstate transport. Now at this point save your criticism as I already know how stupid I sound in hindsight, this was a major lapse of judgement and I accept the problems that followed. I spent the next 2 weeks in a crazed excitement knowing I am finally the owner of an R32 & that it was on its way. I started preparing as when negotiating with the seller I opted out of the Lenso wheels as they aren't really my style & I wanted a set of genuine wheels, and the bucket seats in the car as I am 6ft5 and not the skinniest guy so I had my predictions that I wouldn't fit in them anyway. Due to this the car was put on a set of R33 stockies and some average condition R33 seats that he had laying around. While I waited for the car to arrive I went and picked up a pair of R32 seats and some R32 GTR wheels to fit nicely on it once it had arrived. Being the first time I had done anything like this or had a car transported interstate I had no clue how the logistics of it were, I chose my work as the delivery address assuming it would arrive at some point in the middle of the day. You can imagine my surprise when I wake up to a call from the truck at 5:30am telling me his about 20 minutes away. When I tell you that was the fastest drive to work I have ever done, I managed to catch up to the truck before it even got there. Spent the hours before work taking in the car and living my first experience with one, I had never even been inside one so I spent some time getting familiar with the interior before doing the seat swap. Here is my first proper photo of it as the sun rose in the background. I also noticed it had the switch for the electronic front lip which was a pleasant surprised but sadly upon looking it didn't actually have the lip or the motors or even any wiring behind the switch. As I swapped the seats, the extremely questionable history of the car started to show itself starting with some really dodgy seatbelt buckles that had been extended for some reason with horrendous welds. This was followed by me noticing the drivers side front was quite bent up to which the owner then decided to let me know it had been hit in the front at the same time as the rear end. It also had a pretty leaky power steering rack and the pump was screaming for its life. By now I was a little on edge but I had to get to work for the day, I sent the car down to my mechanic to get the fluids changed and a general check over as I started to question what I had got myself into. I packed the GTR wheels into the car to get put on while it was there as I ran out of time which was a struggle because the handle to release the fuel door/boot was non-existent and just had the end of the cable tied to a bolt. It wasn't much of a surprise when I got a call saying that it looked like the fluids hadn't been done in quite some time. Although that didn't come as a shock, it did catch me off guard when I was told he couldn't open the boot which had the wheels in which I just had open not long before. Mission #1 was to squeeze through the back panel and open the boot from the latch while loaded with a set of wheels which to my amazement he pulled off after a bit of a struggle to reveal there was nothing holding the cable mechanism in place where it sits at the fuel cap. After that dilemma was solved the mechanic did an inspection over the car while on the hoist with nothing too interesting being found other than the expected crushed frame rails. It seems to have had some bilstein shocks installed at some point and judging by the AWD sump that has been sealed up I suspect the NEO is out of a stagea. By the time I got the car back and was ready to have my first drive home in it I was still excited but now quite anxious with the car already. First stop was to the servo to get a nice fresh tank of fuel as I had no idea how long it may have been sitting around for before I bought it. It sat quite nicely on the GTR stockies I must say. Now my drive home from work is short only being a 15-20 minute commute so the chances of anything going wrong is quite small right? WRONG. As I go over a speed bump only 100m from home I start to smell the dreaded smell of electrical burning and my lights drop out and shortly after the car dies. I am in extreme panic at this point thinking the car is going to burn down on its first drive before I have even had a chance to insure it. I move to the bonnet as quick as I can and lift it up, and as I go to grab the bonnet prop my brain is in such a frenzy that it takes me a second to realise my hand is being burnt to a crisp. This is where I notice that there is no plastic clip for the bonnet stay and when I have gone over the speed bump it has knocked the stay onto the positive terminal of the battery welding itself there. Levering it off with a nearby stick I sat there for a few minutes making sure nothing was going to burn down while waiting for a mate to come jump start me. My main stress was that I could've absolutely cooked the ECU or any other electrics. I was relieved when the car started fine with jumper leads on it but it would die as soon as the headlights were turned on so I carefully limped it home with no lights and decided it was a tomorrow task. You can see here where the stand sat on the positive terminal. Thankfully with a new battery the car behaved and seemed healthy. It was pretty smooth sailing for a little while getting to enjoy dailying the car. Interior wise it was pretty much as the seller described except for the the lack of working speakers, the digital controls had no power, and the headunit would randomly turn off & on. I installed a quick release I had laying around from an old car to help with getting in & out of the car and a nice momo wheel. I bought some oem side skirts to match the rear pods that were on the car already, who said a skyline can't be a practical parts mover. Test fit looks good! Found a good deal on a GTR wing & boot that I couldn't turn down. At this point the skyline was being too good to me and had to throw the spanner in the works again. First incident was as I was coming off the motorway and heard a bang and an awful grinding noise. As I pull over down a side street to investigate I notice my whole exhaust has basically fallen off and is dragging on the ground. After waiting around to let it cool to the touch I managed to get it back on its hangers. Thinking it was a weird 1-off instance I didn't think much of it until it happened to me again a few days later to which I see this time the middle hanger has snapped in half and the rear hangers have snapped at the welds. I manage to get the car in to a shop to get the hangers welded and while there I notice that my intercooler has broken its brackets and was being held up only by the piping. Quickly got that sorted and got some thicker brackets out of steel plate to support it all. Just when you thought at this point the car might give me a break, I fill the car up on my way home from the fabricators shop and after I pay I walk back to a good portion of my liquid gold on the floor. I just shrug it off at this point in exhaustion and call it a job for another day. The car had other plans for me though as the next morning on my commute to work, I am halfway there when I notice I am struggling to shift gears. I get lucky with a run of no red lights to work and find some time on my lunch break to investigate the problem. The slave wasn't leaking and the master still had fluid so I was left confused until I contorted myself under the dash and noticed the whole pedal moving loosely side to side when pushed in. Upon pulling it out of the car I found it to be multiple snapped spot welds on the clutch pedal bracket and the actual face of the pedal that sits against the firewall had snapped in half. I jerry rigged it with nuts & bolts at the spot welds but I will need to come back to this in the future and replace with one of the strengthened nismo brackets available. I then got to enjoy the car for another 2 months of cruising and dailying it, peep the obnoxious fireballs it would shoot every shift on the dodgy tune that was on there. On a sunday drive in that period of working car, I was on my way home on the motorway when I heard a slapping noise on my front left to which I pulled over to find my indicator had ejected itself from the car. Nothing a bit of tape can fix lol. I then bought some smoked indicators but after I realised I didn't like the look I found some damaged series 1 indicators. I repaired the tabs with some cut up cards and they looked good to me. My next venture was the hunt for some wheels, I test fit my mates Work Equip Spinning that were tiny 15" and I wasn't sold on the small wheel look. I ended up finding a killer deal on some Rays Volk Racing Group C in 17x8.5 & 17x9 that had been rebuilt many years ago and not ran on a car. I am still yet to get these on the car as they require some specific adapters and shank style lug nuts but I think they will look awesome. At this point my 2 months of reliability had ran out and on a cruise with some friends I suddenly lost the ability to shift gears again and thankfully could get it home by taking main roads and not having to stop. This time my master cylinder was bone dry and the culprit was the clutch slave that had decided to let go. It was a quick and fairly easy fix, but in my luck bad things always come in waves. Only a few weeks later I am on my way home from World Time Attack when the car completely shuts off while coasting down a hill, I try crank it while I still have momentum but no luck. Thinking I might have killed the fuel pump from running it low or maybe killed a CAS because the symptoms seemed to line up somewhat, I opt to get the car towed to a workshop to get fixed up on the Monday. When it gets there they get stuck into diagnosis and the CAS wasn't sending a signal to the ECU, and the fuel pump was also dead so it was comical for a small moment there. They replace the dead fuel pump when one of them notices some smoke coming from the passenger kick panel. Boy oh boy this is where it gets very bad and very expensive. I am not sure who wired the car when the NEO swap was done originally but I hope they never attempt auto electrical again as I am lucky that this handywork only managed to short and kill the ecu and engine loom and not do more damage. This is the point where you could say the 'build' started but not by choice. After some deliberation with my bank account I opted for a Haltech Elite 2500, RB terminated loom, and WB1. While I wish I stopped there and did the minimum of get the car running and leave it at that, I slipped into the rabbithole and decided I wanted to make the most of getting a retune and throw some bolt ons at it and see what it would do. I then threw together a bit of a mix n match build of marketplace deals starting with a GCG GTX3076R, a turbosmart FPR6, 980cc injectors, walbro 460, jackspanian ffp, throttle & fuel rail. At this point it was coming along nicely, the shop was making quick work of it and the bay was looking a lot nicer without the stock crossover intake. I also got them to replace the noisy centre bearing while it was off the road. Then we couldn't get an OEM CAS to talk to the haltech so ended up getting a PRP Street Trigger Kit for it.   While the car wasn't playing nice it decided to kill the stock alternator too so went with an LS1 alternator conversion kit. By now the car was pretty much done and ready to go but come tune day the car kept throwing the timing out every time it would warm up. Upon further investigation it seemed to be warping the PRP trigger bracket when the metal would get hot and expand which would cause the sensor to lose timing as it moves. Herman advised that they have seen the issue a few times now and don't know what the cause is. At this point I decided to switch to the PRP Pro kit with the crank trigger and considering the whole timing belt would have to come off I decided to get a new timing belt kit with water pump fitted. The car would now run fine with no issues and it was finally tune time. It ran up a healthy 275kw but ran out of boost due at 17psi to the rear housing being undersized. At this point the clutch also started slipping and due to it still being a weak RB20 box the tuner set it up to ramp from 8psi up to 17psi with the revs so that it wouldn't load up the clutch and box as hard. Car drives like a dream now. With the car back on the road I could return my focus to the smaller details, starting with getting a set of badges for the hood and quarters. I was struggling to drive with shoes on and I noticed that my accelerator pedal sits higher than my brake and clutch, if someone could confirm how it should sit that would be great. Next little changes was a killallwipers rear windscreen wiper delete, I also got some interior bits I was missing such as parcel shelf speaker covers, wiper trim cover, and boot floor and trims. Finally made it to a SAU NSW event which was awesome to cruise with a bunch of likeminded individuals. Another creature comfort I decided to look into was my lack of A/C. Since the Haltech got wired up the digital climate would power up now, and would blow but no cold air. First issue noticed was the lack of belt on the A/C compressor. After sorting that to no avail, it also had no A/C gas in it, but turns out the condenser has a huge leak. We are almost caught up on the story so far, but at the start of this month while coming into a driveway I heard a huge clunk in the front end to which I got out to witness whatever dodgy camber arms someone installed in this at some point decided to snap in half and I feel very lucky that it didn't happen at speed. Managed to get the car fixed the next day with some replacement GKtech arms. Next problem to address was the leaking gas tank from months ago. Checked the pump hanger seal first but that was fine, stuck my camera up after filling up to try scope out the leak which looked like the breather hose. Got the car up on a hoist prepared to drop the tank when I reached up to feel with my hand and I could feel that the hose clamp was missing and soon after felt that there was a gaping hole in the top of the hose. Replaced and tested and the car holds its liquid now and doesn't give me a fume headache whenever I drive it now. Finally have caught up and now onto fixing my latest issue which is the lack of dash light when driving at night, checked fuses first, then when searching I found the common problem of the headlight switch burning out but mine looks fine. Next test will be plugging a known working headlight switch into my car to tell if my switch is dead. Sorry for the long read but I wanted to be thorough, so if anyone made it this far I salute you soldier. Enjoy the rest of your day and I will keep this updated with issues I find/solve and any cool mods I can do inbetween. Merry Xmas!
    • can someone tell me what information a block number of 330680a on a rb25det engine specifies?
    • Would you suggest staying with a twin setup but upgraded turbos  ?
    • @Duncan hopefully they have a good hard look at Toyota. Both EVs AND performance vehicles! 
×
×
  • Create New...